Stihl Contra Info Sharing Thread

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Looking much better, the cylinder walls look like they will polish up nicely. Just pick the embedded bits out of the cylinder head, then remove any sharp protruding edges, try not to remove much material, it will reduce compression.

i'd clean the dome and deck the cylinder to bring back compression, those valleys and uneven surfaces will catch carbon pretty quick
 
Looking much better, the cylinder walls look like they will polish up nicely. Just pick the embedded bits out of the cylinder head, then remove any sharp protruding edges, try not to remove much material, it will reduce compression.

I'm more worried about detonation than I am about low compression, so I'll probably go overboard. I can make up a bit by leaving the gasket out. I have a 076 for the heavy work I need to do anyway.

I really want to get it polished smooth...minor imperfections always bother me, so I appreciate you being the voice of reason.
 
I'm more worried about detonation than I am about low compression, so I'll probably go overboard. I can make up a bit by leaving the gasket out. I have a 076 for the heavy work I need to do anyway.

I really want to get it polished smooth...minor imperfections always bother me, so I appreciate you being the voice of reason.

I have ran many saws with some dents in the cylinder head with no issues as long as any protruding sharp edges or burrs were removed to prevent detonation and run on. Carbon filling in the dents was never a problem for as long as the cylinder lasted but smooth is better in most cases not necessarily polished though. Most new cylinder heads are fairly rough up in the combustion chamber on todays saws with many having casting ridges left untrimmed, when I see these I just have to tickle them a little with a carbide burr.
 
I have ran many saws with some dents in the cylinder head with no issues as long as any protruding sharp edges or burrs were removed to prevent detonation and run on. Carbon filling in the dents was never a problem for as long as the cylinder lasted but smooth is better in most cases not necessarily polished though.

Alright...I think that I reached a reasonable stopping point:

clean.jpg

Thanks again for the chisel suggestion...that saved me a BUNCH of time!
 
Also, I hope to eventually fill this in with dates that different components appeared - different recoil, when did the governors show up, different clutch cover, which carburetor (these are dated) etc.

You could put this in an Excel spreadsheet or table in Word and build a matrix for the components that you are interested in.

For what it is worth, my 92774 serial number has no governor, the 2-piece starter, the clutch cover with the hole, an HL-74A carb and, the single-sided air cleaner (with a sock) and, of course, no manual oiler.
 
Hi everyone,

I have recently purchased 2 Contra/Lightnings, both not running atm, but in very complete condition. The saw with missing tag and log logo came with a nice 24" bar which I'm pretty sure is original to the saw. Other saw came with 24" oregon bar/chain.

I've emailed Stihl to get approximate dates of manufacture - I'm guessing my 97615 is around 1959/1960 and my 138229 is 1962/63?

I plan on restoring at least one of these saws but was wondering where to get the new reproduction top covers? Or just the Stihl log logo for my one saw that's missing the logo.

I thought that I had also seen someone (not sure if this forum or not) who was making reproduction serial number tags? Would like to have one made if possible as well.

Last, here are a few pictures!

Thanks, Chad
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Thanks bulletpruf!

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Your covers look to be in good shape, but you can find reproductions on eBay.

I think that linking companies that aren't site sponsors is a "no-no", but if you would like I could PM you a link to a German company that sells aftermarket parts.

I needed a piston, crankshaft, bearings and seals that I got from them.
 
An update on my 1st Contra/Lightning rebuild.

I've been busy for the past few weeks tearing down my later model. I've got it basically down to main elements (haven't dismantled the carb yet though). Lots of cleaning, brushing off old grease and grime while I wait for parts to arrive

I was debating whether or not to paint this saw when I rebuild and do a complete resto on my other one. Ie. One in work clothes, one as a working museum piece. But I think I'll respect the heritage with this one and leave original paint on it. My other Contra is in better shape, so will do a nice resto on it.

This saw has seen some repairs over its life. The fuel tank had been apart at some point (gasket maker with gasket), the muffler is broken, a stud missing from the cylinder (but most of the threads are still fine?) And 2 fins broken off the fanwheel.

I think the most creative repair was the throttle trigger - a piece of brass, some screws and epoxy! I now know why he did as they don't exist anymore!

I'll be replacing many parts and so far I've sourced and ordered many (with the exception of a few as OEM (which I'm trying to do.) The only muffler I've come across would cost over $500! Thankfully I've found a TIG welder who is a supposed magician with repairing cast aluminum parts, and I figure nothing to lose going that route!

I think I will be reusing the piston, despite it's condition. Most AF ones I've seen have a slightly different design and I'm not positive it'll work (unless someone can say otherwise?)

I managed to get it cleaned up a lot, more to go but was surprised and excited to discover that the original Mahle piston says 04/61 - so bulletpruf is bang-on with dating this saw!

Last, I picked up a pristine owners and parts manual a few weeks ago. Love the artwork and dialogue - I've attached a few examples. Why aren't owners manuals this fun anymore? Lol

More to come when I find some more time.

Cheers,

Chad
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Hey everyone, Happy holidays - hope you're all doing well and are healthy.

I've slowly been getting back into rebuilding one of my contras. Got new OEM crank bearings and oil seals installed, and the crankcase is back together with a new gasket.

I'm re-using the piston, rings etc but when following the service manual it mentions making sure to put check plates back when installing piston wrist pin. I've scoured my bench and can't find them.

But then when consulting the parts diagrams it shows both with and without the plates, so I'm almost positive that I never had any to begin with. I'm wondering if they're necessary? There has been work done to this saw over the years, but I don't think that the top end was ever apart.

I found some NOS OEM ones and have ordered them. There's quite a bit of side play currently so it will be interesting to see what the plates do.

The service manual dates 1972 and my old IPL is 1960. Here's a side by side comparison of the 2 diagrams. (1972 on left, 1960 on right.)

While I wait on some more parts I'm rebuilding the carb and oil pump.

Cheers, Chad



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Those shims keeps the needle bearing in center.
It depends on the width of the Small end from the conrod.
In those ipl you wil find different partnr for the crank.
 
Thanks mgr. Hadn't considered different ipl's for the connecting rod. Makes sense though, and must have been an evolution of the saw over its manufacturing years. It's interesting to see the changes from 1 year to the next.

There is wear on those parts (needle bearing, rod, piston). It still feels pretty good at connecting rod/crankshaft end.

Does too much lateral piston play cause piston slap? Can't see it being a good thing for anything in there (piston, cylinder etc).

Forgive me for asking - I'm not a mechanic by any means but am learning a lot as I go!

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Yep, same here in Canada. I inquired about a few items I came across with my local dealer, but was told can't get them here. I did a workaround and was able to pick up the Contra/Lightning tin sign via a Belgian store that sold items on Amazon. Definitely a want more than a need but it looks great and I like seeing it above the bench as I work on my 2 Contras!

Chad
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Yep, same here in Canada. I inquired about a few items I came across with my local dealer, but was told can't get them here. I did a workaround and was able to pick up the Contra/Lightning tin sign via a Belgian store that sold items on Amazon. Definitely a want more than a need but it looks great and I like seeing it above the bench as I work on my 2 Contras!

Chad
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Yep, I had to have one of those as well!
 
Curious if anyone has an idea what an appropriate piston ring gap might be? I've just got a set of Caber rings to replace the original worn out rings, and they measure 0.2mm (.008") near bottom of bore. No reference is mentioned in the 1106 service manuals, but I have something from a newer Stihl SM mentioning 0.2 - 0.4mm is an appropriate range. Thoughts?

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