Stihl models advice?

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Sure the pro 261cm cost a bit more, bit the build quality and long term life out of it surpasses the 250, 391 also for being able to work on it.

Once you have a 261cm your 391 will be the backup saw.

Yes I like my 261cm, a good little trail saw hiking 3 to 12 miles and does just fine with 20 inch bar bucking trees off trail.
 
After some inventory checking, 261 seems to be unobtainium around here, but I can get one 130 miles away so might make a road trip of it.
I did track down some MS 250s locally.
Hi. I work PT at a Stihl dealer here in somewhat upstate Ny. We have all sorts of saws in stock. Can see if boss is willing to ship. I know sometimes that’s a “no no” with some dealers. Shop has been there for 60+ years.
 
Looks like the 261cm is highly recommended on this thread and I will have to agree. I sure like mine, and with the decomp it’s pretty easy to start. I have a older 230 that has been a really good saw, but if you put a 16” bar on the 261 they weigh almost exactly the same and balance the same. The difference is almost double the power. If you do go with the 261cm be sure to read your manual because there are a few differences in the way you start it vs just a regular carb model. Oh, I should add that I ain’t no Charles Atlas myself. I’m 60, 117lbs, 4 heart stents, and a bad back. I have no issue using it.👍
 
MS250 will do what you want for fatigue compared to your 391, its perhaps the best homeowner regarding low weight and high power. 18" might be asking a lot though.
I would make my decision based on weight , power and price. Do u prefer more power with the price or would a lighter saw with a bit less power fit the niche you aim to use it for better. Another thing I like about lesser expensive saws , should an accident occur totaling it or it get stolen it is less to replace. My saws have had both happen. 1 025 was stolen off back my pickup behind my house. About a $200 loss. A slightly used 50cc pro saw would cost substantially more to replace.
An accident with a slightly used 066 mag years ago left me with an handful of parts and a $1000ish saw to replace that I couldn't afford . My saws are exposed to more substantial hazards then an average person. If I had only a few saws and kept them locked up when not in use and didn't cut anything difficult having higher priced saws wouldn't be such a risk but I still would want a beater for notably adverse conditions.
 
I run two ms 250's!! Ya just gotta junk that factory carb and put a $10. chimineese one on there and your ready to go! NEITHER of mine would start till I did that and now they start as good as my other saws! I have put some big trees down with them----not a bad saw for a plastic!!!
 
I would make my decision based on weight , power and price. Do u prefer more power with the price or would a lighter saw with a bit less power fit the niche you aim to use it for better. Another thing I like about lesser expensive saws , should an accident occur totaling it or it get stolen it is less to replace. My saws have had both happen. 1 025 was stolen off back my pickup behind my house. About a $200 loss. A slightly used 50cc pro saw would cost substantially more to replace.
An accident with a slightly used 066 mag years ago left me with an handful of parts and a $1000ish saw to replace that I couldn't afford . My saws are exposed to more substantial hazards then an average person. If I had only a few saws and kept them locked up when not in use and didn't cut anything difficult having higher priced saws wouldn't be such a risk but I still would want a beater for notably adverse conditions.
I'm in a pretty deep rural location with quite high firearm ownership, so thankfully tool theft is almost unknown here, fingers crossed.
I already have a 13lb saw so this quest is for something lighter that works for delimbing and cutting stuff to shape while feeding my 12" chipper.
 
Murdochs has them in Missoula, Helena, Kalispell...

That's why I mentioned the 130 mile trip above. I'm in Livingston so it's a 4h round trip for me to Helena.

It's possible there's one at Owenhouse in Bozeman (no online inventory). I'll give them a call to check. Definitely none at ACE in Livingston.

Probably everyone bought saws to clear the flood debris so you can find them in places away from the river.
 
I know you're looking for Stihl, and stick with that if that's what you want. But Husqvarna has online retail, including Baileys where I bought my first "pro" saw, and members here that can get you what you what you may be looking for, but orange

the Husky 543xp 43cc, at 9.9lbs but im not sure if the 543 is a true pro saw. good luck on your pursuit. Fun to hunt down what you're looking for
 
I know you're looking for Stihl, and stick with that if that's what you want. But Husqvarna has online retail, including Baileys where I bought my first "pro" saw, and members here that can get you what you what you may be looking for, but orange
Appreciate the thought, but I'm already invested in Stihl what with weed trimmers and saws, and I have a somewhat reliable local dealer I can rely on for parts (but not new saws, it seems). I do have one Husqvarna mower so it's not a universal ban :)
 
You need a 261CM. Find a 261Cm, you’ll be happy.
I have a non M-tronic MS261, and am glad to have full tuning control over the carburetor. The saw is simply fantastic. It’s light weight, has enough get up and go to cut some larger wood, it’s well designed and built, and is affordable for a pro grade chainsaw. If you’re Stihl born like I am, it’s a must own saw!
 
The pro grade saws are definitely better built and lighter (261, 362, 400, 462 etc...) they are more expensive but repairs tend to be cheaper and easier and you tend to go much longer between repairs.

For the farm saws you'll notice the 291 and 391 weigh the same and look the same, it's because the only difference between them is the piston and cylinder, at one time they had 3 saws built on that chassis (well the previous generation of it), the 290,310,390 and it's very easy to make a 290/291 into a 390,391.

Personally I'd buy a 261 and keep the old saw as backup. If you want to have similar or more power than the 391 with better performance and lighter weight, I'd get the 362 or 400 and keep your eyes open for a used 026/260/261 at a good price.

Easy rule of thumb for Stihl model numbers is if the first two numbers are even it's probably a pro grade saw, if they're odd it's probably a homeowner/farm saw. Used to be able to look at the handles, white was pro, black or orange were home/farm. Doesn't always work (the 180/181 and the rear handle 201 come to mind) but it'll narrow it down quickly.
 
The pro grade saws are definitely better built and lighter (261, 362, 400, 462 etc...) they are more expensive but repairs tend to be cheaper and easier and you tend to go much longer between repairs.

For the farm saws you'll notice the 291 and 391 weigh the same and look the same, it's because the only difference between them is the piston and cylinder, at one time they had 3 saws built on that chassis (well the previous generation of it), the 290,310,390 and it's very easy to make a 290/291 into a 390,391.

Personally I'd buy a 261 and keep the old saw as backup. If you want to have similar or more power than the 391 with better performance and lighter weight, I'd get the 362 or 400 and keep your eyes open for a used 026/260/261 at a good price.

Easy rule of thumb for Stihl model numbers is if the first two numbers are even it's probably a pro grade saw, if they're odd it's probably a homeowner/farm saw. Used to be able to look at the handles, white was pro, black or orange were home/farm. Doesn't always work (the 180/181 and the rear handle 201 come to mind) but it'll narrow it down quickly.
Thanks for the insight. It appears that Stihl has quite distinct saw designs targeting different price points and feature sets, but then encrypts the model numbers so it's almost impossible to remember what's what. Your decoder ring is appreciated. I feel like I should buy 2 or 3 now that I know what I'm looking at :)

I wonder, should I ask why they sell the 261 with a 0.325 chain on it? It seems to be the odd one out -- all the other pro saws come with 3/8.
I've read the old threads on chain which suggest I should use 3/8, which is what's on my 391. But the 0.325 has a 1.6mm gauge, quite a bit thicker than the 1.3mm gauge bar used with 0.325. So far I've never bent a bar so...

Ideally I'd run the same chain on both saws.
 
I've been running an 026 for over 25 years and it has served me well. Since it's getting to have a lot of run-time, I went and bought a non M-tronic MS261 and am really pleased with it. Same basic size & weight as the 026 but seems to have a good bit more power. I don't know if that's the size saw that you're in the market for but if so i would recommend the 261.
 
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