Stihl MS 180 vs Husqvarna 135 mk ii (and similar saw)

[SteveSr]

Well, I pulled the trigger! I didn't get Husqvarna because it might be a Poulan rebadge; and I didn't get Echo because a) maybe (?) they are cheapening them up to sell at Home Depot, b) I can't understand why some randomly have a priming bulb, and c) there is no one locally who knows anything about them and not as much info online.

$299 on sale. $334 out-the-door including a 2-year warranty and a 6-pack of 2 cycle oil.
View attachment 855387

I found a very knowledgeable Stihl dealer the next town over (I don't like the guy near my house). He told me how the MS250 is probably better than the saws meant to replace it: MS251 CB-E (with the heavier easy start spring that could break and single plastic hand-tensioner) and MS251 WoodBoss (without the extra features) The MS250 has 2 strong bar nuts. It isn't regulated by emissions so has a piston unhampered by reburning exhaust gas. This piston is smaller, lighter, and theoretically runs cooler than the newer one because it isn't by default "lean." It's the cheapest saw in their line that uses the wider chain with the cutters placed closer together because 45cc is big enough to handle it. The saw feels light in the hand. I'll go to mom's this weekend to do some cuttin'!

If you haven't used this yet I would go back and have them swap out the sprocket, bar, and chain for 16" 3/8" LP. Shoud be a no-charge option. Stihl calls this pico chain. .325 chain is a tad big for that saw. With the LP setup it will cut with the Ms261 Pro saw. There are lots of threads here on doing this.

 

[tjdean01]

If you haven't used this yet I would go back and have them swap out the sprocket, bar, and chain for 16" 3/8" LP. Shoud be a no-charge option. Stihl calls this pico chain. .325 chain is a tad big for that saw. With the LP setup it will cut with the Ms261 Pro saw. There are lots of threads here on doing this.

Thanks for the info. Are a lot of guys doing this? Since I don't use a saw often, would I notice? I can definitely understand how a shorter bar would have less drag. However, can you explain more about the chain's cutters? 3/8" is .375. LP = low profile? Does that mean that the cutters are shorter (meaning it will cut less wood per pass) or does it mean that they aren't as wide? BTW, why do chains get wider as you move up in size, just for strength?

 

[SteveSr]

Thanks for the info. Are a lot of guys doing this? Since I don't use a saw often, would I notice? I can definitely understand how a shorter bar would have less drag. However, can you explain more about the chain's cutters? 3/8" is .375. LP = low profile? Does that mean that the cutters are shorter (meaning it will cut less wood per pass) or does it mean that they aren't as wide? BTW, why do chains get wider as you move up in size, just for strength?

With the 3/8" LP the space between cutters is slightly larger but the big difference is that the cutters and kerf is narrower due to the LP cutters. Less wood to remove = faster cutting. You will notice a difference. All of the smaller saws in that series MS210/230 used the LP as standard. Why Stihl went with .325 on the 250 is anyone's guess. They may not have wanted to outcut the MS260, a pro saw!

 

[Matt B]

0.325 on my MS250. 3/8 LP will cut faster initially as mentioned above but will go off well before .325 in my experience. With no disrespect intended to other contributors, IMHO stick with .325.

 

[tjdean01]

So, I currently have an unused .325 pitch chain. If I get a 3/8" (.375) there will not only be more space between the cutters, but it will be LP (narrower kerf), and only 16".

Positives: All this means the chain will create less drag and it will cut faster.
Negatives: this type of chain will dull faster?

Question: which one is safer regarding kickback? Is my current.325 considered a "semi-chisel" chain?

 

[SteveSr]

So, I currently have an unused .325 pitch chain. If I get a 3/8" (.375) there will not only be more space between the cutters, but it will be LP (narrower kerf), and only 16".

If you want you can get 18" 3/8" LP. It is available from Stihl. I just like to run these at 16" for trail work as it is a little less weight to be hauling around all the time. I think that it may balance a little better as well. The dealer can test fit the two different lengths and you can try it out. THe big question is what size material will you be cutting with it? You can cut a 28" log with a 16" bar.

Negatives: this type of chain will dull faster?

Dullness happens whenever you hit something harder than steel cutters... Remember Rock, Paper, Scissors? Cutter size doesn't really matter.

Question: which one is safer regarding kickback? Is my current.325 considered a "semi-chisel" chain?

Can't answer for your current chain as .325" is only thspacing and not the cutter type. You want semi-chisel. Stays sharp much longer under typical cutting conditions. All of the Stihl "green" chains are reduced kickback. Stihl 63 PM3 is the chain type that you want.

 

[LLE]

Well, I pulled the trigger! I didn't get Husqvarna because it might be a Poulan rebadge; and I didn't get Echo because a) maybe (?) they are cheapening them up to sell at Home Depot, b) I can't understand why some randomly have a priming bulb, and c) there is no one locally who knows anything about them and not as much info online.

$299 on sale. $334 out-the-door including a 2-year warranty and a 6-pack of 2 cycle oil.
View attachment 855387

I found a very knowledgeable Stihl dealer the next town over (I don't like the guy near my house). He told me how the MS250 is probably better than the saws meant to replace it: MS251 CB-E (with the heavier easy start spring that could break and single plastic hand-tensioner) and MS251 WoodBoss (without the extra features) The MS250 has 2 strong bar nuts. It isn't regulated by emissions so has a piston unhampered by reburning exhaust gas. This piston is smaller, lighter, and theoretically runs cooler than the newer one because it isn't by default "lean." It's the cheapest saw in their line that uses the wider chain with the cutters placed closer together because 45cc is big enough to handle it. The saw feels light in the hand. I'll go to mom's this weekend to do some cuttin'!

Congratulations on a great choice. The input from your dealer is right on the money. I have had two ms250's. When my cutting partner moved away i gave the first one to him. He had quit using his heavier Stihl after using my ms250 the first time. I replaced the ms250 with a Makita EA4300F. Turned out to be as good, not better. When Stihl discontinued the ms250 I bought one for backup. Have also bought a second EA4300F for the same reason. I cut ten to fifteen cords of firewood a year, mostly ten to eighteen inch lodgepole. I use my ms362 when I am bucking the larger trees. Otherwise it is nearly always a ms250 or EA4300F in my hands. I believe chain selection and sharpening is more important than saw choice. I value cutting efficiency so i always use a full chisel chain, round or square filed. With best wishes from the Bitterroot.

 

[Brushwacker]

Good luck with your quest. I just want to say that a $200 saw and 10-20 years longevity really isn't realistic.

Based on my experience i wouldn't say that unless it was a commercially used saw like many hours per week.
My dad bought an ms 180 very near 15 years ago or longer, cut probably about an average of 2 cords of mostly oak firewood per year, 5ish years until he had a fall at about 90 and physically didn't recover well enough to use it. He also used it noodling instead of splitting so it worked very hard for a saw of that caliber. My brother has it and been using it intermittently during the years clearing fence rows, culling about 20 acres of walnuts and cutting some firewood out of the better trees and even cutting fair size stumps flush to the ground. It wears 16inch .050 bars since new. I done most the service to the saw, outside b &c only things its needed I can remember is a fuel line or 2 and the same with a carb cleaning and kit. It is still in very good condition and likely will be used many hours between now and the middle of summer. I use a different 180 myself bought used for a beater saw where it doesn't make since to use and wreck a longer bar and chain. Also spent less then 200 on used 025's and use the p out of them intermittently about 2 decades now, still going strong and healthy.
My dad had a small Husqvarna prior and I had a couple for short periods and overall I think the small stihls last longer, are little tougher to break and me personally I prefer stihl' s handlebar angle for most my cutting.

 

[Parkerpusher]

Based on my experience i wouldn't say that unless it was a commercially used saw like many hours per week.
My dad bought an ms 180 very near 15 years ago or longer, cut probably about an average of 2 cords of mostly oak firewood per year, 5ish years until he had a fall at about 90 and physically didn't recover well enough to use it. He also used it noodling instead of splitting so it worked very hard for a saw of that caliber. My brother has it and been using it intermittently during the years clearing fence rows, culling about 20 acres of walnuts and cutting some firewood out of the better trees and even cutting fair size stumps flush to the ground. It wears 16inch .050 bars since new. I done most the service to the saw, outside b &c only things its needed I can remember is a fuel line or 2 and the same with a carb cleaning and kit. It is still in very good condition and likely will be used many hours between now and the middle of summer. I use a different 180 myself bought used for a beater saw where it doesn't make since to use and wreck a longer bar and chain. Also spent less then 200 on used 025's and use the p out of them intermittently about 2 decades now, still going strong and healthy.
My dad had a small Husqvarna prior and I had a couple for short periods and overall I think the small stihls last longer, are little tougher to break and me personally I prefer stihl' s handlebar angle for most my cutting.

I agree, if used at home even an inexpensive saw should last.
I’m really more of a husky guy but I do not like much of any of their stuff under 50cc and prefer a stihl or echo for small homeowner or camp saws. The op chose well on the 250. Let’s see if he has trouble starting it without flooding it now

 

[firatkaratas34]

Keep this in mind, the lower grade "consumer" Huskys are indeed the same as Poulan saws.
I think I've read on here that the Poulan 4218 is the same as the Husky 435.
That being said, it's a 42 cc saw versus the 135 being a 38 cc saw. It's also only $155 at Tractor Supply versus the Husky 135's $250 price at Lowe's.

 

[Drifter2406]

Hi, everyone. I hate to just join the site and ask a question without providing much value but maybe this thread will help others in the future. Short story: I got a Poulan 14" from Home Depot for $75 a few years back after someone had returned it. It leaks oil down my leg, I dropped it from a tree once and kind of messed up the bar tensioner (which I actually was able to fix with a new screw), it's hard to start, it won't idle right, no anti-vibe, and I need to keep my finger on the trigger or it will stall. I used regular 10% ethanol gas at first (yes, I'm an idiot) so I know it needs a new carb or needs it cleaned, but at this point I figured: new saw. I bought the Ryobi 16" from Home Depot for $140. I used it for a day and was very happy! I paid $18 extra for a 5 year warranty and it came with a cool case. I returned it, however, because it leaked gas all over my truck seat after just one day's use. I've considering getting another one because it's basically perfect because of the warranty, but if I'm going to spend the money why not get something that will last me decades? I don't know if the Ryobi will; and so I started looking at the "big boy" brands. Note that I have rental properties and only use the saw when one gets vacant and I need to cut down some tree. Not a heavy user at all, but when I spend money I want it to go towards something that will last. Echo seems good too but I hear less about them and they seem to cost 50% more. I'm not interested in battery/electric. I'm a man!

The Stihl MS 180 is $200 (I don't want the quick start or quick tensioner version, just more stuff to break). The Husqvarna 135 mk ii is $250 (but similar Husqvarna models can be under $200). In a similar size and price range Stihl also has the 171. Husqvarna has the 120 mk ii, 130 135, and 240 which are all confusingly similar. Main thing is to have it start when I want to use it and be reliable. After that of course lighter weight is better, more power is better, I like the pokey thing by the bar, etc. I've seen a thread here where the Husqvarna 135 seems to be the better choice than the Stihl 181, but the 181 is too expensive for what I need anyway so not on my list. I like the appx $200 price point (but, of course, logically, I'd be willing to spend more for a feature I really liked). Husqvarna better warranty but I'm looking to have the saw last 10-20 years, not 3 or 5 anyway.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/https://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/

Thank you!

I have three saws and the smaller one that gets used the most is the 135 MK2 it clamps to a Portek Log Master and cuts most of my firewood, Except the big stuff) it has had about 30 tanks of fuel through it, I use super unleaded, over here that the least ethanol you get in petrol and it's not missed a beat, great little saw. Have always used quality Husqvarna oil too.

 

[firatkaratas34]

I had a Stihl 180 before it was stolen - it was a steal for some low life!

Light weight, handled nicely - the "go to" saw for small jobs. But the power was soft - would bog down easily. Maybe had it been fully run in ....

 

[Tomos770]

 

[GoBigRed]

So all I can talk about is my experience and what I read about in your situation. It seems the biggest issue isn’t the saw, but lack of maintenance. Any tool or machine will be someone’s POS if it isnt properly taken care of. I’ve fixed several of those Poulan saws that others have thrown out and they all run great and fire up easily. I’ve got a few of the macs (eager beaver and Mac cat era) that were sold in box stores to home owners that they threw out and now run amazing and are reliable after some work. My ms180 is no different. if I dont take care of it and just throw it it the truck or in a shed and leave it there, it will have issues the next time I try to use it. Hell, I’ve repaired those inexpensive Chinese saws that friends have given up on and now they are reliable and start every time because I simply clean them, use the right fuel, keep the filter clean, and run the fuel out if they get stored. This also involves keeping your chain sharp, oiler passage clean of debris, and maintaining your bar properly.
It doesn’t matter what you pay for it, any and all machines will succumb to the affects of not being maintained and properly used. Sure, some have better design and QC than others, but the bottom line for me is maintenance is the starting point for reliability.