Stihl MS 241 using .325" bar & chain

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traktorz

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- We're coming back to the need for a lightweight, (lighter than our 50cc Jonsered CS2150), still powerful saw for cleaning and delimbing mainly spruce (Picea abies). None of our current saws have heated handles, so the MS 241 C-M VW is one of two possible candidates.

First, I don't see any reasons, why I cannot use the the same chain pitch as for the new Husqvara 543XP(G), since both having the same cylinder volume and power.

Another attractive reason would be that I can share the same grinder setup for sharpening all our .325" chains, as well as being able to reuse the chains with our other Jonsered saws.

Looking at the current Stihl catalogue, I only see two alternative chain gauges from Stihl regarding the .325" pitch: 0.058" (1.5 mm) and 0.063" (1.6 mm). For a 32 cm bar length, it implies 56DL, which is the same drive link number that we're currently are using for both our Jonsered saws, CS2150 & CS2152.

However, looking at the Oregon catalogue, we find three chain gauges to choose from, including the here unique 0.050" (1.3 mm); Oregons MICRO LITE™ (95VPX056E) chain on the corresponding MICRO-LITE PRO™ (130MPBD025) bar.

Of course a change to a matching rim sprocket (0.325" 7T) is required, such as the Stihl part number 1143 007 1003.

- Here's the question. Given that a swap from Stihls proprietary 3/8P chain is required, which chain gauge to go for? (0.050", 0.058" or 0.063")

- Well, there's less interest in 0.063", since we have no way of sharing that gauge with any of our other saws.

- If going with 0.050", only Oregon can supply a bar.
- If going with 0.058", both Oregon and Stihl have bars and chains. Here it's a question whether Oregon PRO-LITE® or Stihl Rollomatic E.

- Essential question: 0.050" or 0.058"?

Oregon_MS241.gif
 
Stihl rollermatic E bars are quality laminated bars....l would get one of the reduced weight ones to keep that little saw little. l run a 14" light weight stihl bar on a rear handle 201 & you really do notice the difference. As for the gauge, well l'd try to match your chain with other saws you already have to make things easier for you. Good luck!
 
Whatever gauge your other saws running 325 use.
For me that means 325 050 66dl, and if one guy has a bad day he can use multiple chains. If you are de-limbing then you shouldn't have many bad days, but the next job might be a stone, wire and nail nightmare.
 
Have you checked for clearance on the 3/8 chain? It may not fit the case and clutch cover?
lthink the OP was referring to 3/8 picco (lo pro) chain so clearance should not be any issue.

I too, guess the clearance is OK, since Oregon configuration table indicates that 21BPX & even 22BPX chains would work together with their PRO-LITE bars. (The 36RM & 36RS chains (3/8") from Stihl, I doubt this little engine will push at all.)
 
Stihl rollermatic E bars are quality laminated bars....l would get one of the reduced weight ones to keep that little saw little. l run a 14" light weight stihl bar on a rear handle 201 & you really do notice the difference. As for the gauge, well l'd try to match your chain with other saws you already have to make things easier for you. Good luck!

Good point, that makes sense, I'll rather look for something like Rollomatic E Light (3005 000 xxxx) - hope it's available for .325" too. I think, it's from here, i need to start looking.
- Get the bar first, than the chain decision will easily follow.
 
Whatever gauge your other saws running 325 use.
For me that means 325 050 66dl, and if one guy has a bad day he can use multiple chains. If you are de-limbing then you shouldn't have many bad days, but the next job might be a stone, wire and nail nightmare.

- 66DL, that's corresponding to a 16" bar, I think.

- Yes, I rather bring with an extra chain and swap while in the forest, then trying to sharpen the chain in the field, at least in winter time. I get better sharpening results at home, with the saw locked in the vise in the garage.

P.S.
Having used the MS 192 alot with the small PMM3 chains, and found it necessary to keep it sharp at all times. It dulls quickly at the clearance/cleaning activity, if the wood is a bit dirty. Hence my interest for a bit larger saw, and with a moderate step up in chain size. Heated handles is a comfort plus, we would appreciate at times.
 
I w
- 66DL, that's corresponding to a 16" bar, I think.

- Yes, I rather bring with an extra chain and swap while in the forest, then trying to sharpen the chain in the field, at least in winter time. I get better sharpening results at home, with the saw locked in the vise in the garage.

P.S.
Having used the MS 192 alot with the small PMM3 chains, and found it necessary to keep it sharp at all times. It dulls quickly at the clearance/cleaning activity, if the wood is a bit dirty. Hence my interest for a bit larger saw, and with a moderate step up in chain size. Heated handles is a comfort plus, we would appreciate at times.
i wasnt making a recommendation of chain size for you - I run 16" bars on my three saws running 325 chain, and I have thee guys on them, but what suits you may vary. If you intend to run the 241 and the jonsereds on the same job I suggest that you run the same chain if you can. For the little I've spent on a 241 (3 days), it is happy pulling a 16" bar and 325 chain in pine.
If you had other saws running 3/8 lp I'd recommend that, the 241 seems happy either way.
In making the assumption that you are using saws to make money, so reducing the amount of different chain you have in stock is always a good idea.
 
I was looking up suitable Stihl part numbers for a MS 241 C-M with .325" pitch configuration, as an alternative to Oregon products. However only Oregon can provide a bar in 0.050" gauge that will fit the saw, see the first post in this thead. I'm fine with 1.5 mm gauge, which is common with other saws we have.

Stihl_MS241.gif
 
Thanks!
Very good catch!

I'll look further to see if any suitable "A074" bars exists in 1.3 or 1.5 mm gauge. But it doesn't seem so.
Remaining option therefore seems the Stihl 3005 small mount only.
 
Oregon actually have A074 bars in 1.3 mm gauge for .325" pitch, but not as short as fitting a 56DL narrow kerf chain for our specific needs:
([emoji815] 14 0 MP B A074 / 56DL)

These two longer bars are available from Oregon though:
[emoji815] 160 MPB A074 / 62DL
[emoji815] 180 MPB A074 / 68DL


Ref:
[emoji815] http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf
 
Anyone having experiences to share regarding either the narrow-kerf Oregon Micro-Lite[emoji769] Pro bars or the Stihl "3005"-type 0.058" gauge bars with .325" pitch on the Stihl MS241C-M?
 
Anyone having experiences to share regarding either the narrow-kerf Oregon Micro-Lite[emoji769] Pro bars or the Stihl "3005"-type 0.058" gauge bars with .325" pitch on the Stihl MS241C-M?

Is there a Oregon Micro-Lite narrow-kerf in .058 gauge? I was never able to find one.
 
I have 3/8 picco duro 1,3 and it is mostly used for delimbing or in dirty wood. It wil last very long before sharpening and it is not that expencive.
 
The stihl 3005 has the same slot thickness as oregon 041 or 095. I find it easy to modify any one of the three to get any of the others. The place stihl puts the oil in doesn't work out if the small tail "a" of the oregon ones unless the tail is shortened a bit if I recall correctly and the chain needs be a little less. Using the stihl bars on huskies the slot needs lengthened. Just don't try and drill too close to a spot weld.

There are universal mount .325 NK bars. Just epoxy up the holes or portions of holes you feel uncomfortable with.
 

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