Stihl MS-250 experienced a runaway lean condition and locked up

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cwatkin

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I have had excellent service at of all my Stihl saws including this M-250 that had probably served well beyond expectations. I suspect it is done for after a recent incident but figured I would ask.

The saw had been used and abused on my farm. It never seemed quite the same after a tree fell and pinched the bar during cutting. It didn't just bind the saw. It pulled the chain so hard that it ripped all the teeth off the drive sprocket, split the end of the bar down the middle, destroyed the tensioner, and ripped the bar nut studs out of of the plastic housing. I was about to write the saw off at this time and then realized I had a parts saw that someone had given me from a similar model Stihl. I pulled all the parts I needed and got the saw working again. It needed a new bar, chain, studs, sprocket, tensioner, etc.

I JB Welded the studs back in position. One held and one didn't so I only have one bar nut present. I figured any extra use from this saw was money in the bank and I had a larger backup if needed so wasn't too worried. I also suspect that the stress placed on the crank at this time somehow damaged the engine internally as it was running oddly at times. It was harder to start and sometimes was hard to keep running at idle.

Anyway, I was trimming some branches along a fence line when it started to sound like it was running a tad lean like if you were about out of gas. I knew this wasn't the case as I had just filled it up. It then ran normal for a few minutes and then the saw went into a runaway mode where throttle control or turning if off (killing spark) had no impact. The saw was just screaming. I tried to choke it to death and that had no impact. I probably should have dumped the gas out at this time but I was more worried about keeping the runaway saw away from me or the ground.

It ran for about a minute like this and then it started to bog and a shower of sparks began to come out of the exhaust. I figure the piston was getting so hot as to melt at this time. It then stopped dead and was locked up hard. Smoke was just pouring of the saw from all areas and you could feel heat radiating so it must have been extremely hot. It was still locked up the next day so figure it is really locked up.

I checked to see if the carb had come loose creating an intake leak and it was tight. I talked to a guy who works on these for a living and he said it probably had a small hole in the piston allowing it to still run but suck air from the crankcase and run lean. I always keep my saws tuned a tad richer than from factory as my local shop says they last a lot longer if you do this so don't think this was an issue.

I figure this unit is best used as parts for the new MS-250 I plan to replace it with and not consider rebuilding it with all it has gone through. I have found some piston and cylinder kits for not much more than $50 that were rated well online. I don't know if this would fix it or if other major damage was likely done and if I should just buy a new saw and keep this one for parts like I originally planned.

What do you suggest? Also, what do you think happened and do you think I could have saved the saw from this suicide mode it went into safely? I had something along these lines occur with a cheap consumer grade trimmer once. It had fixed carb jets so was tuned lean for the EPA of course. It decided to run away from me on a really hot day and tried to run backwards, shearing the flywheel key. The key was integral to the flywheel which cost more than I paid for the unit new. I hated the thing so gladly set it at the curb for scavengers to pickup and went out and bought a Stihl.

Conor
 
Sounds more like a death of a runaway diesel.........

Sounds like maybe the throttle control may have jumped out of it's holder and jammed the throttle control holding it wide open, and so the kill wire wasn't making contact, and the choke rod wasn't engaging as well.
Sounds like it is time to chuck that saw in a dumpster and look for another one.
 
Yeah, I pretty much figured this saw was a goner. The cracked case is another good possibility I hadn't thought of. I had to open up the jets some a little bit back as it was running lean. It then began to run smoky for a while and could never get it turned right so just left it a little rich. I bet the crack was opening and closing, allowing different amounts of air in and causing different air mixtures that made it impossible to tune.

I am going to keep the parts I want and buy another identical saw. The MS-250 served me well and I understand you won't be able to get them anymore soon.

I have never heard of Hutzl but went out and looked at their stuff and it is quite interesting.... It looks like you can buy complete chainsaw copies requiring assembly for a fraction of the price of a new Stihl. Of course there is no included warranty or service but this might be a neat little project. I was thinking about one of the monster 660 saws. I don't need something this large often but for under $200 it doesn't seem like a big deal if assembly is required. I work on computers for a living and always harp on some of the cheap aftermarket replacement parts people find for a fraction of the cost of new. Is this stuff pretty much the same way? I see no-name Chinese junk that causes more harm than good for a tiny FRACTION of the amount of the OEM part. For the most part the stuff is money down the drain and not worth the time or effort. Certain items, mostly power supplies, can actually put out incorrect voltages and current, frying the powered device. My main concern would be this is just trash and money down the drain.

On the other hand, I found the complete engine mentioned for $26 here: http://www.huztl.net/Engine-Motor-F...iston-42-5MM-Crankshaft-Chainsaw-p228811.html

Then I found the housing with bar nut studs uncluded for $13 here: http://www.huztl.net/Crankcase-For-...e-Housing-Chainsaw-1123-020-3003-p228812.html

I also busted the black plastic wraparound handle once (I forgot about that until now) while I was cutting in really cold weather. It must have been brittle and just snapped due to the cold. I didn't see the replacement for that but I used some allthread and JB Welded it in the hollow cavity within the handle, solving that issue. It doesn't look pretty but I am sure it is stronger than factory. Stihl wanted like $150 for that part.

I could get this saw running for less than $50 with these parts. Do you think it is worth it? I like tinkering and know I could have this back together in no time. If the stuff is just junk, then forget it. If it is good enough as a backup for my backup, then it is probably worthwhile. Remember I have a farm and heat with wood so run my saws like a pro. The big box store stuff is trash if you ask me. Are these copy cats parts decent, junk, or somewhere in the middle? I have no experience with them.

Conor
 
So far I've personally had very good luck with the Hutzl stuff, and you will find many others who have as well. It's not OEM quality, but it's far from garbage. If you poke around there's a pretty good thread on the 660 kit that documents what's good and what isn't quite up to snuff on them. I'm planning on getting one when I have the spare money burning a hole in my pocket.

Being a clamshell saw I wouldn't think a cracked case would be as big an issue as on a crankcase saw. But you never know.
 
Interesting... For $50 I can't see it being a bad deal. I would also get a new carb in case that was part of my issue. They are cheap. I found the 660 thread and it looks like the quality can vary but overall things have been pretty good. Some of the equipment I have had with Chinese engines is actually pretty decent for what it cost. I figure I would want to dump a mL or so of mix oil into the cylinder of any engine kit to serve as an assembly/break-in lube.

I don't know if the case is cracked but will tear the thing apart one of these days and see. The explanation of a hole in the piston also sounded reasonable. Maybe it it had been there for a while and finally got up to a certain size and then all hell broke loose! I would suspect that the piston has become one with the cylinder so getting it out won't be possible. Of course a hole would be visible from the bottom of the piston once apart or from the plug hole. I assume all the sparks I was seeing from the exhaust were molten piston or cylinder wall fragments being blown out. The thing was just smokin' hot when it quit and it locked up instantly when it quit. I have seen engine lock up before and there is often a "grinding" to a stop and you can pull them over with a lot of resistance afterwards. This one stopped in a split second and there is no turning it over.

Conor
 
I'd throw the saw away or sell it on eBay as a parts saw with a full explanation that it's seized.

They're good little saws and you got your use out of it.

You can likely step up to an 026, which is a pro saw, for around $150 if you wait to find one.

I just think adding the China parts is good money after bad money. In the end, you're just gonna spend $50 more.
 
It looks like 2 cycle "runaway" isn't unheard of from what I have found. This is a good thread about jet ski issues with this. http://www.pwcforum.com/general-pwc-jetski-discussion/8430-2-stroke-runaway-explained.html

That link doesn't load.
With a throttle I'm not sure how it'd be possible.

Somehow jammed the fuel rack on my Kubota in the processor 2 days ago. Started it up and instantly was climbing to probably over 5k and still going. (Was WAY over the 2900rpm rated speed for sure). Key or manual fuel shutoff didn't do anything, luckily the Murphy switch solenoid did.
 
I will pull the worthwhile parts and send the rest off with the next load of scrap if I don't fix it. I plan to get another identical unit so why not keep the parts?

Conor
 
Strip it down and save all the parts that aren't buggered.
These clamshell saws are pretty common and you can save the parts for yourself or get pics of what's left and put it up on eBay.
I wouldn't repair it since it has engine housing damage (stripped out studs) but it still has parts value. Are the plastics still good (the orange parts)?
 
...I talked to a guy who works on these for a living and he said it probably had a small hole in the piston allowing it to still run but suck air from the crankcase and run lean.

Air in the crankcase will always be a mix of fuel and air since it goes through the carb first, so the tiny hole in piston theory has little merit. You need incoming air from a source other than a slightly-rich tuned carb to get lean.


My money is on air leaking in through the crankshaft bearing on the clutch side. It's the most logical source from what you described. Let us know what you find out.
 
Yeah, those ol' MS250s........ Once they burn a hole in the piston, you just can't stop them!!!!
I always wondered what "piston ported" meant!

Those German engineers are way ahead of everyone else.

I'm gonna go out and cuts some piston ports in one of my plastic Poulans right now!
 
What do you suggest? Also, what do you think happened and do you think I could have saved the saw from this suicide mode it went into safely?
Conor
May be applying the chain break would of held or not ? but i woulda probably tried it and popping off the filter cover and filter.From there put my thumb over the carb inlet and choked it out or might have been able to ground it out at the switch. That is if i was in a safe position to be doing it. If I was on the side of a ditch bank I might have through it in the water. Probably a loss any way but may be not as bad.
 

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