Forget the 362. Go 400C..
Stihl MS 261 Vs. MS 362
- Thread starter JRJC
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Well, bringing 'er back to the top to debate some more...
Glad this was here as I just had two recommendations in my introductory thread for the 261 c-m over the 362 c-m. I was also considering the 562xp but after one husqvarna weed trimmer, the vibrations of that machine all but made me never consider that brand again. That being said, this was a big box model and after doing research this time, I'm not even considering the consumer line-up of either brand.
So, in the last 7 years, have any opinions changed? I believe this is the thread I found before I joined that made me decide on the 362.
Glad this was here as I just had two recommendations in my introductory thread for the 261 c-m over the 362 c-m. I was also considering the 562xp but after one husqvarna weed trimmer, the vibrations of that machine all but made me never consider that brand again. That being said, this was a big box model and after doing research this time, I'm not even considering the consumer line-up of either brand.
So, in the last 7 years, have any opinions changed? I believe this is the thread I found before I joined that made me decide on the 362.
Depending on your needs and availability, I would go with either a 261 or the new 400 (built on a 362 chassis but much better).
The 261 is 50 cc, the 400 is 68 cc and has improved transfers (over the 362). Folks are very impressed with them.
The 261 is 50 cc, the 400 is 68 cc and has improved transfers (over the 362). Folks are very impressed with them.
Hands down I'd get another 400. It's everything the 362 should have been. Price point is a little high imo, but it's a darn good saw.
They are Hot Rods!
400 over either 261,but especially the 362..
362's dont seem to be so great huh?
I only base my opinion on running the first version of the 362. It was a turd IMO. I believe there have been one or two versions since and I can't say on those.
I can say the 400 is a beast for its weight and size.
The 362s are OK, but the 400 is definitely better. The 261 is a smaller saw, but very good in it's category.
The newest version of the 362 if lighter, more powerful, and just better than the original 362s (it is the 3rd version). That said, the 400 hs more displacement, better design, and is better overall.
The newest version of the 362 if lighter, more powerful, and just better than the original 362s (it is the 3rd version). That said, the 400 hs more displacement, better design, and is better overall.
Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm a little concerned with weight, as I'm only 5' 10" and my daily job is behind a desk, pushing a pencil. Heaviest thing I lift is a set of plans (read:weakling). I haven't looked at a 400 so I'll go check that out.
Price is always a concern but I've learned over the years "buy nice or buy twice" so I'm a little more forgiving in that department than my wife thinks I should be at times.
Also, thanks for warm welcome. I'm on some car forums and let me tell ya, these topics are beat to death and usually the responses are less than desirable, so I appreciate the honest feedback. I'll have dumb questions along the way, trust me. I've never fell (fallen/cut/massacred) a tree before, only some limbing and bucking after my dad cut it. I want to keep all my digits/limbs and more importantly, life, so I'm going at this in an "open book" kinda way.
Price is always a concern but I've learned over the years "buy nice or buy twice" so I'm a little more forgiving in that department than my wife thinks I should be at times.
Also, thanks for warm welcome. I'm on some car forums and let me tell ya, these topics are beat to death and usually the responses are less than desirable, so I appreciate the honest feedback. I'll have dumb questions along the way, trust me. I've never fell (fallen/cut/massacred) a tree before, only some limbing and bucking after my dad cut it. I want to keep all my digits/limbs and more importantly, life, so I'm going at this in an "open book" kinda way.
I actually like the ms400, but don’t rule out the 562 because of a bad experience with a box store item. I’d go handle them both and then make a decision
Given your recent feedback, I'd likely stick with the 261, they are a little lighter and run real nice with a 16 or 18" bar.
If you feel you would need a 20 or 24" bar, then go with the 400.
Also, a "light" bar cost more, but makes the saw balance better and is (IMO) worth the price. Usually you get the best deal on them when you get it with the saw.
If you feel you would need a 20 or 24" bar, then go with the 400.
Also, a "light" bar cost more, but makes the saw balance better and is (IMO) worth the price. Usually you get the best deal on them when you get it with the saw.
Solid suggestion! Also, to clarify, I'm 35 years old so I'm not a weak as I pretend to be but weight is a consideration. I have a ton of laurel trees to clear and that's probably where the 261 or smaller would win. The thing that's stopping me is, after this initial clearing, it'll spend the rest of its life felling larger trees. That's why I was stuck on the 362 (or now the 400-stills need to look into that), based on this thread. I do have a benefit though. My best friend has a 14" and 24" husqy. Idk which model exactly but they came from tractor supply. I can use that smaller saw for the smaller stuff and mine for after. Decisions decisions.
Weight won't be a factor if you are only using the saw a couple of hours a day or less. BUT, the older you get and\or the more time you spend cutting, your back will dictate which saw you prefer to take out with you.
Solid advice if budget is a concern. The 562 is a great saw.
@MustangMike that 400c-m is schweet! That's one fine looking saw. Weight is nice too. $1,099, they are sure proud of it too. Lol
Hard_Yakka
ArboristSite Member
See signature below .. I have a 261 which I really like for smaller jobs like delimbing, smaller rounds, etc. The one 362CM with 20" bar is/has been my go to saw the other 362CM with a bigger bar is going to get ported by someone in the future (need recommendations). My new 462 is very nice, impressive actually and I'm thinking a port on the one 362 will bring it up close to the 462. I'm semi-retired to a farm, 69 y/o and currently cutting and splitting wood about 4-5 hours a day a couple times a week. Until I 'discovered' a pickeroon the hardest part was moving the rounds to the log lift on splitter. So basically when I get tired of sawing I go to splitter and then back and forth and the last 12 years of work was behind a desk or getting 3M air miles.
Oh, I take a 'papa' nap after those cutting/splitting days
Oh, I take a 'papa' nap after those cutting/splitting days
I have 2 ported 462s wearing 20" and 24" light bars, respectively. Also a ported 261 with 18" 3/8 (all are square file). I had a ported 362, but sold it to get one of the 462s. (400s were not out yet) 462s are great saws but cost even more than a 400.
I love the 261 for limbing and small bucking, but when the hardwood is over 12" I usually pick up a 462. So, if you are getting only one saw, the best one will depend on what you are cutting, and limbing will wear you out much faster than bucking, especially is the saw is heavier.
If you plan to do much cutting it is always nice to have more than one saw, so you may want a long range 2 saw plan (261 + 400 w/b great). Why 2 saws? If one get's pinched in the cut you can cut it out with the other. If the chain on one gets dull or rocked, you can just pick up the other saw and finish up.
Maybe start with a 261 as your initial project involves smaller stuff and you will gain some experience with the smaller saw (important for safety). Always wear hearing protection and eye protection, good boots and chaps or chainsaw paints are recommended. Mistakes can be made when you get tired. I also always wear gloves, and a helmet when felling trees. Gloves will reduce splinters, reduce the severity of pinches, and sometimes reduce the severity of a cut (even from a chain that is not moving).
Have someone experienced teach you how to use a saw and/or read stuff and watch videos of what to do and not do. Know about kickback and what causes it, and how violent it can be if you hit wire or a fence with the tip of your saw. Keeping your chain sharp will help to reduce the severity of kickbacks in wood.
It all depends on how much you have to do, and how valuable your time is.
I also still have my 10mm 044 that I purchased new in Dec of 92 and it still runs great. So, I always remember what my Dad used to say: "Quality will be remembered long after the price paid is forgotten". I know I thought it was a lot at the time, but I honestly don't remember what I paid for that 044!
I love the 261 for limbing and small bucking, but when the hardwood is over 12" I usually pick up a 462. So, if you are getting only one saw, the best one will depend on what you are cutting, and limbing will wear you out much faster than bucking, especially is the saw is heavier.
If you plan to do much cutting it is always nice to have more than one saw, so you may want a long range 2 saw plan (261 + 400 w/b great). Why 2 saws? If one get's pinched in the cut you can cut it out with the other. If the chain on one gets dull or rocked, you can just pick up the other saw and finish up.
Maybe start with a 261 as your initial project involves smaller stuff and you will gain some experience with the smaller saw (important for safety). Always wear hearing protection and eye protection, good boots and chaps or chainsaw paints are recommended. Mistakes can be made when you get tired. I also always wear gloves, and a helmet when felling trees. Gloves will reduce splinters, reduce the severity of pinches, and sometimes reduce the severity of a cut (even from a chain that is not moving).
Have someone experienced teach you how to use a saw and/or read stuff and watch videos of what to do and not do. Know about kickback and what causes it, and how violent it can be if you hit wire or a fence with the tip of your saw. Keeping your chain sharp will help to reduce the severity of kickbacks in wood.
It all depends on how much you have to do, and how valuable your time is.
I also still have my 10mm 044 that I purchased new in Dec of 92 and it still runs great. So, I always remember what my Dad used to say: "Quality will be remembered long after the price paid is forgotten". I know I thought it was a lot at the time, but I honestly don't remember what I paid for that 044!
I have both those saws and my go to is the 261 with a 20'' bar. It's lighter and will cut everything my 362 will with the same 20'' bar. However the 362 can support a 24'' bar where the 261 can't.
I rarely pull out the 362 anymore unless I have some logs to big for a 20''.
As for dependability, I have hundreds of care free hours no issues with the 261. Starts easy and every time. My 362 has much less hours because I rarely use it but it's been flawless as well.
I find I can cut longer with the 261 because it's less tiring. But the weight of the 362 helps the saw glide through a cut with just letting the weight of the saw do the work.
I would start with a 261 with a 20'' bar and if you need the 362 down the road you can get it later.
I rarely pull out the 362 anymore unless I have some logs to big for a 20''.
As for dependability, I have hundreds of care free hours no issues with the 261. Starts easy and every time. My 362 has much less hours because I rarely use it but it's been flawless as well.
I find I can cut longer with the 261 because it's less tiring. But the weight of the 362 helps the saw glide through a cut with just letting the weight of the saw do the work.
I would start with a 261 with a 20'' bar and if you need the 362 down the road you can get it later.
I can’t imagine cutting 24 inch hardwood all day with an MS362. Painful
