Stihl MS180 upgrades

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A far better saw for my job would be the MS201 (rear handle) .
But it is not easy to find it here in Greece.And since Stihl here does not import this model ,automatically means no support or spare parts ,me thinks.
 
As for #8 :
Here,at this particular MS180 ,
the cursed passage is blocked with a piece of transparent tubing.

Wood debris can not enter.
Otherwise,it starts accumulating moving slowly towards the oiler hose.When enough debris is accumulated ,the oiler hose pops off the case .
Actually the case has a slot,
which retains about half of the
oiler hose's "cap" .
Since the slot is parallel to the direction of
accumulating debris ,the latter pushes the hose's cap ( or "stop" if you like ) out of the case's slot .And then the hose
slightly pops off .Sometimes so
slightly ,that there is not any oil leaking.
But at the oil output
there are only bubbles present and no oil is dripping .
Seems like Mr. Stihl should be reading this.

Thanks.

Any history with the 018?

Roy
 
My biggest issue with the MS180 is the air filter.Let me explain .
This saw (as well as the MS170) are specifically designed for users that almost never remove the air filter,blow it clean and reinstall it.
Thus ,by design the air filter,once it is installed it is not supposed to be removed.It is designed to be changed with a new one once a year.Otherwise ,
the penalty of frequently removing the air filter ,cleaning it and reinstalling it ,is that the filter no more fits snuggly around the oval shaped intake snorkel and wood and dust start making their way into the cylinder and piston.

Myself I frequently remove the air
filter to clean it.It's also a good way to prevent the auto
compensating carburetor to tilt
the mixture towards the lean side.

But haven't got a way to seal
the air filter around the oval shaped intake snorkel ,yet.

Has anyone found a (quick & efficient ) way to deal with that issue?
To make the best starting and power with the stock carb , do away with compensating carb! Drill a 1/16" hole in upper carb snorkel , silicone over the snorkel upper hole that has o ring , remove air filter housing Insert , throw that away , silicone over the small side of where the insert was , run fuel /oil mix 32 or 40:1 max , now you have a darn good running 180 :)
 
To make the best starting and power with the stock carb , do away with compensating feature ! Drill a 1/16" hole in upper carb snorkel , silicone over the snorkel upper hole that has o ring , remove air filter housing Insert , throw that away , silicone over the small side of where the insert was , run fuel /oil mix 32 or 40:1 max , now you have a darn good running 180 :)
 
Also run a Stihl 3 stage fleece air filter , yes this saw requires frequent changing but these fleece ones can be washed out
 
I just rebuilt a 170 and am very impressed. The most gain I saw in the video was going to the shorter bar and NEW chain. To bad he didn't try a new chain on the orig. bar first. The exhaust screen was partly clogged. Should have done a before and after test with it. I may try a muffler mod on mine. I shuddered when the young child was trying to pull the starter while the guy had his shin real close to the bar, if not on it. The chain brake was on but still very bad example. As for the rest of the mods, not worth the trouble imo.
 
FWIW... the MS180 is a good saw, within its design limitations. I have one and use it - the way it was meant to be used. For larger and longer duration projects, I use my MS271 - a great saw. For smaller projects, I use an Echo CS-310 14 in. saw. All three are great saws when used as they should be.

 
But like more modern 2 strokes ,, very lean and limited in stock condition. Too many get carried away with muffler mods and fall victum to its louder , its got to have more power , usually not. One has to give it more on the intake side first.
 
FWIW... the MS180 is a good saw, within its design limitations. I have one and use it - the way it was meant to be used. For larger and longer duration projects, I use my MS271 - a great saw. For smaller projects, I use an Echo CS-310 14 in. saw. All three are great saws when used as they should be.

The MS261 is a great saw 👍
 
FWIW... the MS180 is a good saw, within its design limitations. I have one and use it - the way it was meant to be used. For larger and longer duration projects, I use my MS271 - a great saw. For smaller projects, I use an Echo CS-310 14 in. saw. All three are great saws when used as they should be.

I agree.But I have to note that the MS180 is built under the same standards that apply to their bigger pro Stihl chainsaws.

I'm one that uses the MS-180, most of the times,way beyond it's scope limits.
But I 'm also aware that each MS-180 won't last more than 2-3 years (sometimes even less than that ) in my hands .The ones that failed are repaired/rebuild solely with AM parts for quite cheap and/or each time one fails it gets replaced ASAP with a brand new one.
...
While the pile of various parts and repaired /rebuilt 180's keeps getting bigger!
 
I agree.But I have to note that the MS180 is built under the same standards that apply to their bigger pro Stihl chainsaws.

I'm one that uses the MS-180, most of the times,way beyond it's scope limits.
But I 'm also aware that each MS-180 won't last more than 2-3 years (sometimes even less than that ) in my hands .The ones that failed are repaired/rebuild solely with AM parts for quite cheap and/or each time one fails it gets replaced ASAP with a brand new one.
...
While the pile of various parts and repaired /rebuilt 180's keeps getting bigger!
Why Ive run all my saws off 25-32:1 fuel mix with good oil and fuel. I have a 20 year old Poulin that stills works / runs fine with original carb ect
 
They’re not, not even close, but they’re good little machines for the cost.
Well ...

A ) The ability to dismantle the whole saw with the use of few tools ,to me it is a "pro" build standard.

B ) The ability to repair the saw with the use of a dedicated
"Repair & Service Manual" ,even
with limited mechanics knowledge ,
is also a pro level standard.

C ) The "one way" fitment of most
parts is also a pro level standard.

D ) The availability of numbered parts ,
even down to a single bolt or washer ,
is another pro level standard.

E ) Almost in every home owner level chainsaw ,
no matter the brand ,the use of plastic parts is extended.
But Stihl uses the most durable and robust polymers.
No other brand has to offer such sturdy plastic housings and covers.Trust me ,I have dropped my MS180s so many times
and from such heights ,that no other saw could have survived these falls.I have experienced what happens with Husqvarna and Echo home owner grade saws ,when accidentally dropped from a tree or down on a slope.


Sure ,pro level Stihl chainsaws have magnesium housings
and covers,forged connecting rods,larger engine displacements,
M-tronic electronic tuning ...

But ALL Stihl saws are made under the same standards.
 
Well ...

A ) The ability to dismantle the whole saw with the use of few tools ,to me it is a "pro" build standard.

B ) The ability to repair the saw with the use of a dedicated
"Repair & Service Manual" ,even
with limited mechanics knowledge ,
is also a pro level standard.

C ) The "one way" fitment of most
parts is also a pro level standard.

D ) The availability of numbered parts ,
even down to a single bolt or washer ,
is another pro level standard.

E ) Almost in every home owner level chainsaw ,
no matter the brand ,the use of plastic parts is extended.
But Stihl uses the most durable and robust polymers.
No other brand has to offer such sturdy plastic housings and covers.Trust me ,I have dropped my MS180s so many times
and from such heights ,that no other saw could have survived these falls.I have experienced what happens with Husqvarna and Echo home owner grade saws ,when accidentally dropped from a tree or down on a slope.


Sure ,pro level Stihl chainsaws have magnesium housings
and covers,forged connecting rods,larger engine displacements,
M-tronic electronic tuning ...

But ALL Stihl saws are made under the same standards.

None of the above refers to comparing to pro standard - we’ll agree to disagree.
 
Also run a Stihl 3 stage fleece air filter , yes this saw requires frequent changing but these fleece ones can be washed out
Where can you get this upgraded air filter? Is it a Stihl part #? How much approx.?
Thank you, I really like my ms-180 cbe
 
Also run a Stihl 3 stage fleece air filter , yes this saw requires frequent changing but these fleece ones can be washed out
I use those that have the white fleece on the clean side and grayish-purplish hard felt material on the dirty side .
After each cutting session ,I use compressed air to
clean the filter.Every five or so of such cleanings the filter
gets the boiled water shower treatment.

I have discovered also that sewing
the filter close to its outer perimeter and around the center hole ,makes the filter stiffer where the top cover part of the "filter box" presses against,increasing the sealing of the filter.

Some wraps of Teflon tape around the intake snorkel ( underneath it's insert ) seals completely the fines from entering to the clean side
( really a design flaw there ) ,through the cavity that forms between the snorkel and it's insert .

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-ms170-ms180-air-intake-fines-solved.366453/--------------------------------
@James G here is a MS170 this time ,used totally out of it's scope.
Again .


{ Adjustable WT215 clone carb,mm,drilled intake insert.
16" bar with Stihl PM3 3/8"lp .05 "low-kickback" crap of a chain }
 
To make the best starting and power with the stock carb , do away with compensating carb! Drill a 1/16" hole in upper carb snorkel , silicone over the snorkel upper hole that has o ring , remove air filter housing Insert , throw that away , silicone over the small side of where the insert was , run fuel /oil mix 32 or 40:1 max , now you have a darn good running 180 :)
Well,in fact I've removed the fully adjustable WT-215 clone carburetor and tried the stock carb mod you're describing .
The stock carb on the MS180 2-mix sold here in EU is the Zama C1Q S286A with a .43mm main jet ( max rpm 13,000) .I've adjusted the metering lever so it's free end to be almost flush with the gasket flange of the carburetor body ( as recommended in the Zama C1Q service manual ) and replaced the main jet with another,two sizes larger ( .45 mm ) .
I have not tested yet the saw ,but I've done the same procedure with a MS170 2-mix ( stock carburetor C1Q 237D with
.45mm stock main jet ,replaced with a .47 one ) and it works perfectly ,as long as the air filter is kept unclogged
( regularly cleaned ) .

Thing is that since both the MS170 and MS180 have limited coils ,
using a fully adjustable carb demands the tuning to be done while
cutting ,since once the max rpms are reached ,the tachometer values
are going crazy.Tuning by ear is also troublesome ,since the coil limiter makes the saw to sound almost like it is 4-stroking ,while
it isn't.

By now ,I'm not really sure if the adjustable carb option really has
something more to add ,compared with just modding the stock carb
( bypass the auto compensation,install one or two sizes larger main jet and adjusting the metering lever ) and just forget about all the fuss that comes with tuning a limited coil saw .

I've to test further and decide .
 

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