When you do get a carb for it replace the fuel filter
Stihl MS211 - Huge List of Issues!
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Also replace the air filter and spark plug (gap it properly). Since it is a new to you saw.
This is like watching a train wreck in progress. Get good air flow in and out. Get good working carb adjusted correctly. Then start expanding to other stuff. Not to jump to buy a piston replacement yet.
Freudianfloyd
Clinically Diagnosed with CAD
Yes, I completely agree about waiting on the piston. I was just mentioning that after I tried everything else, mine turned out to be the piston and none of the tests I did pointed me there. I agree to work with carb adjustments first.
To access the screen, remove the top cover from the saw. On the top of the muffler, more towards the right side [bar side], the screen sticks up from the muffler. You pull that screen out and gently clean it with a brass brush or something [well, that's what I use], then slide the screen back in. If it hasn't been cleaned in a while, you'll likely need pliers to tug it out. Cleaned, it will slide back in ok. I clean it after every few tanks. I use alligator nose pliers, but others would work ok.
I agree with everything that everyone has said so far. I would like to add a few points if I may.
Mix a small batch of fresh fuel in a known clean container. Check coil to magnet clearance and connections on the coil. Install a new, gapped spark plug. Do a vacuum/pressure check on the saw.
I've scratched my head on saws that were brought to me to fix, and learned the above the hard way. I empty their gas tank and use my fuel mix, a known good spark plug and check the coil/magnet gap and electrical connections. Unless the saw is older, I usually save the pressure/vacuum test for last if all else fails to change results.
My Stihl HT75 pole saw started second pull every time, hot or cold. One day when it was about 5 years old it wouldn't start until my arm was tired from pulling, and if it started, the saw lost power under load. I checked for leaks, removed and cleaned the carb, and adjusted the carb. Installed a second new spark plug, all to no avail. I finally had to replace the carburetor. New carb and the saw went back to starting second pull. There was no dirt in the carb, it was always run out at the end of the year or when it would sit for more than a week with no use. Whatever it was, a thorough cleaning did no good, and a new carb cured the problem.
Try checking your seals with a vacuum/pressure test.
Mix a small batch of fresh fuel in a known clean container. Check coil to magnet clearance and connections on the coil. Install a new, gapped spark plug. Do a vacuum/pressure check on the saw.
I've scratched my head on saws that were brought to me to fix, and learned the above the hard way. I empty their gas tank and use my fuel mix, a known good spark plug and check the coil/magnet gap and electrical connections. Unless the saw is older, I usually save the pressure/vacuum test for last if all else fails to change results.
My Stihl HT75 pole saw started second pull every time, hot or cold. One day when it was about 5 years old it wouldn't start until my arm was tired from pulling, and if it started, the saw lost power under load. I checked for leaks, removed and cleaned the carb, and adjusted the carb. Installed a second new spark plug, all to no avail. I finally had to replace the carburetor. New carb and the saw went back to starting second pull. There was no dirt in the carb, it was always run out at the end of the year or when it would sit for more than a week with no use. Whatever it was, a thorough cleaning did no good, and a new carb cured the problem.
Try checking your seals with a vacuum/pressure test.
Finally. If a good thoroughly cleaned carb doesn't entirely fix the problem, it's time to rule out vacuum leak.
D
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Any idea where I can find a good guide to vaccum testing?
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You just block off the intake, and the exhaust,
and pump it up with air, or vacuum, and see if it holds.
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Here is what the block looks like.
There are a couple of ways to go about it. If your saw has an impulse line that attaches to the block, I like to attach the pressure/vacuum attachment there (so it gets tested too). Also I like to use rubber stoppers with grease to block off the rubber intake manifold (same reason). If your saw doesn't give you good access to the impulse line, you'll need an adapter with tubing and draw through the spark plug hole (can be made with an old spark plug). An easy way to block off intake and exhaust is to purchase tapered neoprene strips which are inserted between muffler and exhaust port and between carb and intake port. If you need more details, there are posts in the archives. Feel free to PM me with any unanswered questions.
How about we go outside the box.A weak ignition module?Plug wire chafing? Gas line collapsing? Worn bearing seals? How about doing a compression check? C'mon guys. This should be diagnosis 101.
It's easiest to use a impulse line for a connection. You can make a block off plate with a piece of aluminum and a piece of inner tube as a gasket. That will withstand vacuum and pressure tests. There are plugs that can be bought, but it's easy and cheap to make a pair of your own.
If your engine has no impulse line, you can break apart an old spark plug and soft solder a brass vacuum fitting into the spark plug shell. It works well for me. I bought a pressure/vacuum pump from Amazon. Works fine.
If your engine has no impulse line, you can break apart an old spark plug and soft solder a brass vacuum fitting into the spark plug shell. It works well for me. I bought a pressure/vacuum pump from Amazon. Works fine.
