Stihl MS250 vs MS261 which would be easier to start?

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On your 250, ---- JUNK the carb that Sthil put on it and get a chimineese knockoff $10. new carb put it on, set it and go cut wood! Stihl dealers jacked my friend around for over a year on his 250 and it was carb defect right out of the box but they refused to accept that fact. He threw the saw under the bench where it laid for 10 years then handed it to me and said IF you can fix this damn thing to run , its yours! Well new fuel line from stihl and new carb from chinma and we been cuttin for 5 years now with no starting trouble!
I do NOT endorse chimna junk BUT in this case it was the majic cure to a sthil factory problem, PLUS when I took the old carb off, On top side was stamped STIHL,--- turned it quarter turn it is stamped ZAMA, o.k. one more quarter turn and CHINA!!!!!!!!!! LOL! So I figure why not get another one from them that does NOT say ZAMA or STIHL on it!
The new carb can be set with common screwdriver and it runs better now than a new saw, NOT a bit hard to start now, usually a couple pulls and your cuttin wood---cold or hot it just starts and cuts!
 
Hello, Well to start out with I am 65 years old and have two tears in my rotator cuff, eventually there will be surgery. I have a MS250 that has to be over 20 years old. It has served me well until recently when it has been giving be fits trying to start it. It's really been ever since the dealer rebuilt the carb. I bring it in they say they had no problem starting it. So mainly out of frustration I'm looking at new saws. I have seen some criticism of the Stihl Easy2Start, but was thinking of getting the MS251C-BE which has that feature. My other thought was the MS261 which has a decompression valve, would that be easier to start than the MS250 without a decompression valve. I would also be open to Echo if they have something easy to start. Any thoughts would be appreciated, just trying to stay in the game another 10 years.
My smaller (<50cc) Echos are the easiest to start and incredibly tough. They honestly get commercial hours, especially for little saws.

My MS261 is also extremely easy to start with the decomp. Never missed a beat either. I’ve read quite a few times about starting problems and the 250 though.
 
Thanks, good to know did something change?
Just technology my friend Im not a full fledged "buckin bro" so to speak but I know a little about what makes engines go vroom and it probably has something to do with better fuel quality and more spark with increased air flow at a lower pressure allowing for fewer less enthusiastic attempts to cause combustion =ing successful ignition
 
Curious about this comment... On my MS250 I use the small orange-handled flat blade I got with another saw. I'm not the original owner, though.
From what has been posted…either go with a new Echo or a new ms261. Problem solved :D
also 65…bad left shoulder so don’t have the pull-start issues…yet :p.
 
From what has been posted…either go with a new Echo or a new ms261. Problem solved :D
also 65…bad left shoulder so don’t have the pull-start issues…yet :p.
If I ever find that I am in regular wood that the CS4910 consistently struggles with I'll upgrade to the 261. Will probably tweak the muffler before that time comes and Im betting I'll never have to make that move.
 
If I ever find that I am in regular wood that the CS4910 consistently struggles with I'll upgrade to the 261. Will probably tweak the muffler before that time comes and Im betting I'll never have to make that move.
Why? Don't get me wrong. I suspect that a 261 will out perform your 4910, but if you're regularly in wood that your 4910 struggles with, upgrading to a 261 isn't a big enough move to make it worth the money. If your 4910 dies on you, THEN a 261 might be a good replacement. If you find that your current 50cc saw is underpowered to the point that you're willing to open your wallet up, don't go buy a "better" 50cc saw. In that case, move up to at least 60cc with the better option being something in the 70cc range.
 
They have plastic limit caps on the screws and yes you can turn them a half turn which dont get PROPER set for your location/gas/etc.! I broke needles off trying to get caps off so just got a new straight carb and solved all the problems with the junk factory original!
The 250 was a VERY bad model and Stihl knew this so the dealers refuse to correct the FACTORY defect carb! Thats what my friend ran into! Dirty pool by Stihl and their dealers!
 
upgrading to a 261 isn't a big enough move to make it worth the money. If your 4910 dies on you, THEN a 261 might be a good replacement. If you find that your current 50cc saw is underpowered to the point that you're willing to open your wallet up, don't go buy a "better" 50cc saw
Yeah I get what you're saying and I was just being a bit hypothetical. I really don't think I'll have an issue with the 4910 unless, as you stated, it dies. I've been impressed with it thus far and don't expect I will be limited by it... I do like the 50cc-class saws with a .325 chain as a happy medium. I find the 4910 to be very versatile around my property.
 
I bought this saw because I got a really good deal. I already own an ms241c-m. Took it out , fell a tree and bucked two rounds. Shut it off , grabbed the 241 and finished the bucking. When I got home I cleaned it up and sold it on Kijiji for $250. My 241 with 18” B&C cut circles around it and I’m sure the 261 is better. Super light, easy to start.
IMG_0726.jpeg
 
MS250 is the poor man's 260. There is a reason they cost less. Yes, the starting issue (hard pull) is an issue. But I have sold a few hundred that are still going.strong. If you pull up to compression first it pulls over fine.
Go pro line IMHO.
 
Why? Don't get me wrong. I suspect that a 261 will out perform your 4910, but if you're regularly in wood that your 4910 struggles with, upgrading to a 261 isn't a big enough move to make it worth the money. If your 4910 dies on you, THEN a 261 might be a good replacement. If you find that your current 50cc saw is underpowered to the point that you're willing to open your wallet up, don't go buy a "better" 50cc saw. In that case, move up to at least 60cc with the better option being something in the 70cc range.
This is the old no replacement for displacement theory, and just doesn't hold water. Comparing a 4910 or 250 or even 026/260 to a 261c/m is like comparing a triumph Bonneville to a zx7... huge technological advances in every way.
 
This is the old no replacement for displacement theory, and just doesn't hold water. Comparing a 4910 or 250 or even 026/260 to a 261c/m is like comparing a triumph Bonneville to a zx7... huge technological advances in every way.
No argument there. I just don't see the gains being worth the cost of buying an entirely new saw. For me, if I'm going to have to drop more than 5 Benjamin's on a "better" saw, I would want something noticeably bigger than a 261. I'll save the older, lighter saw for limbing and get something like an MS462, or MS400 for bucking. For limbing, you're not able to take much advantage of the extra HP from the 261. The 400 and 462 are a little heavier, but they cut a LOT faster than a 261 is capable of which makes the work go by a lot faster. You're also able to run a longer bar and still out cut the 261 which means you're not having to bend over to do the cutting which makes the work that much easier.

There are other things that factor into this equation, mainly the operators age and physical condition. It may very well be that an MS261 is the most powerful saw that a specific person can operate for an extended amount of time. If you're body just can't handle running a 13 lb powerhead that generates five and a half HP plus the weight of the bar, there's nothing wrong with that. I can still run 6 cubes with a 42" bar, but on a hot day I will sit and take a break in the shade every time I have to refuel. I still have a couple of years before I hit 50, but there are a LOT of things I can't do any more. There will come a day when I don't want to pick these things up any more and I'll be content only running something like a 261. I'm just not at that point yet so my advice doesn't reflect that.
 
I have a Stihl MS261 (carb model) and an Echo CS-3510. Both easy enough to start once you know the drill. With the 261, you're really not going to be starting it with the decomp valve in. Decomp valve in, full choke, give it two or three pulls. (Pretty easy to do.) It should blip by then, at which time make sure the decomp valve either kicked off (like it's supposed to) or pull it up by hand. Move control to half choke, pull rope to compression before you pull. Mine starts on the next pull, or the pull after that. Don't leave the decomp valve open and full choke for more than a few pulls, or it's easy to flood. I got mine from a friend and the first time I got it home I couldn't get it started for the life of me. I called him for tips, and he said funny, he never had any trouble starting it. Once I got the feel for it it's been starting fine. I'm 70, by the way (but rotator cuff ok, knock on wood.) Always fresh gas has to be considered if you have starting problems. The Echo 3510 is a great saw, and certainly an easier pull. It's just that the MS 261 is in a class by itself.
 
Actually the MS250 has a fairly LOW weight to power ratio: 3.43 lbs/bhp and, at least the earlier ones, is probably the best bang for the buck of the Stihl homeowner saws . . . IF you have the strength for its notoriously hard pull. When Stihl made the 021, 023 and 025, (and the corresponding MS saws) the starter pulley that was OK for the 021 was used on the 023 and 025. Since the pulley diameter was not increased for the larger displacement 025 and MS250, they were hard to pull over and had an unpleasantly jerky pull. Since you have a shoulder problem, I would definitely go with a battery saw unless you are bucking a lot of firewood. I bought a Skil 20 volt for around $150. It has a 14" bar with 3/8LP chain and I have cut 12" oak with it. You do have to get used to the high torque, low chain speed feel. I have Stihls from MS170 to MS660, but sometimes physical limitations make battery saws the wisest choice.
 
Hello, Well to start out with I am 65 years old and have two tears in my rotator cuff, eventually there will be surgery. I have a MS250 that has to be over 20 years old. It has served me well until recently when it has been giving be fits trying to start it. It's really been ever since the dealer rebuilt the carb. I bring it in they say they had no problem starting it. So mainly out of frustration I'm looking at new saws. I have seen some criticism of the Stihl Easy2Start, but was thinking of getting the MS251C-BE which has that feature. My other thought was the MS261 which has a decompression valve, would that be easier to start than the MS250 without a decompression valve. I would also be open to Echo if they have something easy to start. Any thoughts would be appreciated, just trying to stay in the game another 10 years.
With a shoulder problem, I must ask "Why not get a battery powered saw?" I just bought a new MS250 and love it, but it can kick back while starting when warm. I seriously looked at the battery powered saws on YouTube. The run time is over an hour with the saws I was looking at and you will not have idle time between cuts like a gas powered saw. After over an hour of cutting you will probably want to rest. The battery saws compare closely to gas saws.
 
Can you not start it with your other arm? I have a shoulder problem as well. I just use my left hand to start it now.
 
Hello, Well to start out with I am 65 years old and have two tears in my rotator cuff, eventually there will be surgery. I have a MS250 that has to be over 20 years old. It has served me well until recently when it has been giving be fits trying to start it. It's really been ever since the dealer rebuilt the carb. I bring it in they say they had no problem starting it. So mainly out of frustration I'm looking at new saws. I have seen some criticism of the Stihl Easy2Start, but was thinking of getting the MS251C-BE which has that feature. My other thought was the MS261 which has a decompression valve, would that be easier to start than the MS250 without a decompression valve. I would also be open to Echo if they have something easy to start. Any thoughts would be appreciated, just trying to stay in the game another 10 years.
Im not really a pro but the easy start feature from stihl is pretty good.I also have a easy start chainsaw,not a stihl but it has easy start and i can pretty much start it with an almost effortless pull of the cord.
 
Hello, Well to start out with I am 65 years old and have two tears in my rotator cuff, eventually there will be surgery. I have a MS250 that has to be over 20 years old. It has served me well until recently when it has been giving be fits trying to start it. It's really been ever since the dealer rebuilt the carb. I bring it in they say they had no problem starting it. So mainly out of frustration I'm looking at new saws. I have seen some criticism of the Stihl Easy2Start, but was thinking of getting the MS251C-BE which has that feature. My other thought was the MS261 which has a decompression valve, would that be easier to start than the MS250 without a decompression valve. I would also be open to Echo if they have something easy to start. Any thoughts would be appreciated, just trying to stay in the game another 10 years.
261! The MS 250 is a puzzle to start.

Watch this youtube video where I ( A 14-year-old ) effortlessly start this unit of a saw. Heck, I bet my hamster could start this saw fine.:

 
Seems like every time I get a saw in here that's hard to start it's an MS250 or an 025. I have one now, 120 compression, plenty of spark, and won't hit a lick. I may try emptying the gas tank and putting a little fuel down the sparkplug hole and see if it hits doing that. This may be another candidate for a China carb..
 
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