Stihl MS361 too much oil on chain and clutch drum

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Hello all, new to this forum.
I'm the original owner of a Stihl MS361 chain saw, 20" bar that has been used, but not abused. Recently took the bar and chain off to clean clutch drum and surrounding area. I put a piece of tape over the upper oil delivery slot on the metal chain guard to keep dirt out while cleaning , then forgot to remove it. This essentially blocked almost all oil to the bar. Ran saw lightly, about one tank worth of fuel and noticed oil everywhere. Cleaned and dried area again, installed bar and chain, less plastic clutch drum cover and outside-most cover and ran saw to observe. Visually you can see oil being sprayed off the chain while running, a large amount , which is way excessive for this saw. Bar and chain is soaked. (Normally saw goes through about a half tank of oil to each tank of fuel. I've always had the oil flow adjuster screw turned to full on). So I'm assuming it's something related to blockage that I created.
I checked the oil vent check valve ,ok, and replaced anyways. I'm thinking maybe something inside the oil pump is causing this due to the blockage? What else is there, or am I missing something obvious?
Thanks to all in advance!

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Hello all, new to this forum.
I'm the original owner of a Stihl MS361 chain saw, 20" bar that has been used, but not abused. Recently took the bar and chain off to clean clutch drum and surrounding area. I put a piece of tape over the upper oil delivery slot on the metal chain guard to keep dirt out while cleaning , then forgot to remove it. This essentially blocked almost all oil to the bar. Ran saw lightly, about one tank worth of fuel and noticed oil everywhere. Cleaned and dried area again, installed bar and chain, less plastic clutch drum cover and outside-most cover and ran saw to observe. Visually you can see oil being sprayed off the chain while running, a large amount , which is way excessive for this saw. Bar and chain is soaked. (Normally saw goes through about a half tank of oil to each tank of fuel. I've always had the oil flow adjuster screw turned to full on). So I'm assuming it's something related to blockage that I created.
I checked the oil vent check valve ,ok, and replaced anyways. I'm thinking maybe something inside the oil pump is causing this due to the blockage? What else is there, or am I missing something obvious?
Thanks to all in advance!

P/S....forgot to state bar oiling hole and bar channel free and clear

 

[nckcalifornia]

Pull off chain plate and inspect the oil pump and oil line? Or maybe the clutch cover being off just makes it look like there’s too much oil. I dunno how much damage you can do w a piece of tape.

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Pull off chain plate and inspect the oil pump and oil line? Or maybe the clutch cover being off just makes it look like there’s too much oil. I dunno how much damage you can do w a piece of tape.

Thanks for the suggestion. This excessive oiling just happened as a result of tape blocking the exit channel. I'm assuming the oil pump must have been damaged . Now, after running saw for less than a few minutes oil is everywhere, to the point of now wanting to even use the saw. This saw's oiling system is quite simple and direct , no hoses onther than the one in the tank, so I think I'll try an oil pump and worm gear, unless someone has any other suggestions?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Sounds like the oil found another way out. I've never had to deal with it on mine - maybe a hose popped off?
Too much oil complaint is a first for the 361. Folks usually complain of not enough.

 

[stihltech]

Check for a flat oring at the output side of the pump. I have seen then split when output is blocked

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Check for a flat oring at the output side of the pump. I have seen then split when output is blocked

Thanks, stihltech....that sounds the most credible as I haven't pulled clutch off yet. My local dealer was decent at one time, his best tech(s) left and the ones they hire now, well.......................
BTW, Binghamton area here...Thank you again!

 

[PV Hiker]

Look at the oil sealing ring (1) as oil can go around it if worn. See attached image. I believe this is the same as @stihltech is mentioning.

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Look at the oil sealing ring (1) as oil can go around it if worn. See attached image. I believe this is the same as @stihltech is mentioning.
View attachment 980672

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Thanks PV
In seeing that I need to remove the clutch, which method is preferred by you guys? Stihl dedicated piston stop tool or nylon rope?

 

[PV Hiker]

I have been preferring some length of nylon rope down the spark plug hole.

Since the clutch comes off clock wise, I move the piston up spinning the crank the same direction as the clutch coming off. Bring it up just past the exhaust port. shove a bunch of rope in. When you go to take the clutch off you are compressing the rope and not allowing it to enter any side ports.

It helps to have a small impact to add a little impact action. Some prefer a breaker bar over impact as the clutch could break off the end of the crank. There are stories as to what method to use. Your mileage will vary and each saw would be different.

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Thanks PV
There are many different ways posted here and on the 'net in general on how to.
I'm very cautious about putting anything inside a cylinder, whether it be the Stihl special tool or nylon rope. My thoughts were to burb the 19mm nut / socket with a 3/8 pneumatic impact gun...lightly at first. ( I'm a career mechanic for too many years and know how to avoid excessive force)
Anyone's thoughts on this method? Should I still add some rope to the cylinder to cushion and avoid any problems with the flywheel / key on the other side?
Or?

 

[PV Hiker]

With the spark plug in the compression may not be enough to overcome the torque needed to break it free. The Flywheel side nut seems to always break free without some kind of piston stop with a small cordless impact. I have just used nylon rope for the clutch side. Same as when torqueing the nut and clutch pack back on I use nylon rope as a stop.

 

[bwalker]

Thanks PV
There are many different ways posted here and on the 'net in general on how to.
I'm very cautious about putting anything inside a cylinder, whether it be the Stihl special tool or nylon rope. My thoughts were to burb the 19mm nut / socket with a 3/8 pneumatic impact gun...lightly at first. ( I'm a career mechanic for too many years and know how to avoid excessive force)
Anyone's thoughts on this method? Should I still add some rope to the cylinder to cushion and avoid any problems with the flywheel / key on the other side?
Or?

I use a 1/4" drive electric impact set on low.

 

[cookies]

3/8 impact gun with a deep 19mm socket, zap it off. No need to put anything in the cylinder risking damage by foreign material. When reinstalling start it by hand and one quick squeeze of the impact trigger will get it tight enough, do not hammer it on.

 

[stihltech]

That is it!

 

[stihltech]

Yes to the 3/8 impact but never use it with a piston lock! The rope is OK but use one that will just fit in the plug hole nothing smaller. Have the piston closing the exhaust port so the rope does not jam. Then ONLY use a ratchet or breaker bar. I have a 3/8 hand ratchet with a length of conduit for the tough ones. Steady increasing presure, no jerking.

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Thanks to everyone....I'll probably try as stihltech recommends and go with the rope and breaker bar first...I would normally just hit it lightly with a 3/8 impact if it were a car, but still leery of using an impact as I've read elsewhere using an impact can damage the flywheel.
This may be too I'm overthinking something simple with too much information. The fear of the unknown I suppose....

 

[StihlsawuserMS361]

Clutch came right off with rope in spark plug hole, and I have one more question please:
Took the oil pump off this weekend and checked the discharge O ring. No cracks etc. I can't see where the suction hose could create the over oiling problem as it appears to have a snug fit, so I'm going to change the pump and replace the discharge O ring. I have a new Stihl pump, p/n 11356470460, whereas the original one to the saw is p/n 11280461. I have a Stihl parts catalog, listing 11356403200. Do the numbers change often?
Local dealer minimal help. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks again guys, I appreciate any help!

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

A lot of times the number printed on the part is a casting number that is used for the company’s reference. If you are replacing it you can use the original or a pump from a MS460 to get a touch more oil or from a MS460R for a lot more oil.


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