Stihl MS362 crankshaft not turning freely after installing new bearing.

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T.Bird

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...And my MS362 rebuild continues to creep along at a snails pace.

I finally got the crankcase reassembled with new bearings. I used the hot and cold method. I heated the bearings and slid them onto a chilled crankshaft, then chilled that unit and seated it into a heated clutch half of the crankcase, then chilled that whole assembly and pushed on the heated remaining case half and bolted it all together. It seemed to work great! I was very impressed, but as I was bolting the case together I noticed that the crankshaft had become very stiff to turn. I wasn't concerned as I remembered hearing somewhere that this is common and that you just need to wack the crankshaft back and forth a few times with a soft-faced hammer in order to free things up after assembly. NO LUCK! It doesn't seem to matter how much I rap on the crank in either direction with my dead-blow mallet. No improvement! Any thoughts?
 
A picture might help!

I have a bad feeling that it has something to do with how the ignition side bearing appears to not be seated all the way into the case. *Groan* And I thought it was going so well!

24ACD91E-9969-4171-A433-93F2AA4709C3_1_201_a.jpeg
 
...And my MS362 rebuild continues to creep along at a snails pace.

I finally got the crankcase reassembled with new bearings. I used the hot and cold method. I heated the bearings and slid them onto a chilled crankshaft, then chilled that unit and seated it into a heated clutch half of the crankcase, then chilled that whole assembly and pushed on the heated remaining case half and bolted it all together. It seemed to work great! I was very impressed, but as I was bolting the case together I noticed that the crankshaft had become very stiff to turn. I wasn't concerned as I remembered hearing somewhere that this is common and that you just need to wack the crankshaft back and forth a few times with a soft-faced hammer in order to free things up after assembly. NO LUCK! It doesn't seem to matter how much I rap on the crank in either direction with my dead-blow mallet. No improvement! Any thoughts?
i had that problem on a ts410, i ended up fitting 2 gaskets
 
Centralise the crank lobes in the case- by whacking the crank ends with a soft face hammer and remove the side loading preload from the bearings.
If they were not OEM bearings- you might just be paying the price for cheaping out- but if the pressure is relieved- bearings seated correctly and square in the case halves- it should spin freely.
 
Centralise the crank lobes in the case- by whacking the crank ends with a soft face hammer and remove the side loading preload from the bearings.
If they were not OEM bearings- you might just be paying the price for cheaping out- but if the pressure is relieved- bearings seated correctly and square in the case halves- it should spin freely.
I knew that you were likely an experienced whacker as well.......
 
I don't think a dead blow is gonna do it. You need a decent-sized brass hammer. I bought a Snap-on years ago with a two-pound head. It's worked over literally hundreds of crankcases.
Yeah, I never have tried a dead blow myself. I tend to be a little more "heavy metal".
My practices likely would be frowned upon.
 
:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
I'm just going to go ahead and ignore the direction this thread has gone!

I don't think a dead blow is gonna do it. You need a decent-sized brass hammer.

Good to know. I like the idea of a large brass hammer, but I don't have one, and I don't think I can talk myself into buying one just for this project. I'll see what i can scrounge up from a friend maybe. I went with the dead blow because it's the largest non-marring hammer I've got.

So... no one is concerned that the bearing on the right side of the picture, doesn't seem to be seated? Maybe that IS how it looks when it IS seated?
 
:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
I'm just going to go ahead and ignore the direction this thread has gone!



Good to know. I like the idea of a large brass hammer, but I don't have one, and I don't think I can talk myself into buying one just for this project. I'll see what i can scrounge up from a friend maybe. I went with the dead blow because it's the largest non-marring hammer I've got.

So... no one is concerned that the bearing on the right side of the picture, doesn't seem to be seated? Maybe that IS how it looks when it IS seated?

Yeah, I imagine that bearing should be flush with the internal face of the case- but I am not familiar with the internals of a 362, but you can see the entire kit and caboodle has to go that way to be centralised.
If you back off the case screws- does the crank spin more easily then?
 
:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
I'm just going to go ahead and ignore the direction this thread has gone!



Good to know. I like the idea of a large brass hammer, but I don't have one, and I don't think I can talk myself into buying one just for this project. I'll see what i can scrounge up from a friend maybe. I went with the dead blow because it's the largest non-marring hammer I've got.

So... no one is concerned that the bearing on the right side of the picture, doesn't seem to be seated? Maybe that IS how it looks when it IS seated?
Ignore the banter on these posts but not the advice, If flecking your paint is a concern a bit of duct tape will help cushion the paint but you can pinpoint the bind easier at the source .. (POST #12) I can't answer If that bearing is seated but will bet it is NOT and is the issue of not spinning freely.
Do NOT peck at the quill in one place but work around it and spin the crank frequently to know when you change things and when it does appear the bearing is seated give it a love tap or three with all the case bolts snug to be sure it is seated and retorque the case bolts for peace of mind.
 
:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
I'm just going to go ahead and ignore the direction this thread has gone!



Good to know. I like the idea of a large brass hammer, but I don't have one, and I don't think I can talk myself into buying one just for this project. I'll see what i can scrounge up from a friend maybe. I went with the dead blow because it's the largest non-marring hammer I've got.

So... no one is concerned that the bearing on the right side of the picture, doesn't seem to be seated? Maybe that IS how it looks when it IS seated?
They prob mean to hit it to seat that bearing I'm sure they saw the pic.
 
I like the concept of tapping the CRANK (WAITing for Harleys' reply) But wouldn't a Light Tap on a flat punch on the case at the bearing quills help relieve the bind ?? I would experiment with case bolt tension as you pecker away... Your turn Harley
I used look at women, and think to myself....

"I'd tap dat"
 
If one does not have a brass hammer then a piece of brass or aluminum can be held against the crank stub and then whack the metal with a regular ballpein or other steel hammer, I have even used a piece of very hardwood like yellow birch for the drift. Haven`t come upon one where the bearing cannot be shifted over with a good solid blow from any hammer.
 

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