stop me from spending money... F2+ and a 395xp

[industrialsized]

My first mill setup I'm looking at pulling the trigger on an logosol F2+ with the "free" 1 meter extension and a Husqvarna 395xp with a 28" or 32" bar and some ripping chain.

I'll mostly be cutting thick slabs >16/4 or log halves for chainsaw carved benches and signs. generally soft woods; cedar and white pine under 2 foot dia as the bigger stuff is more valuable to me in round form for carving.

I'm open to suggestions and comments but my main questions are;

is the 395 the right saw not too big or too small? from what I have read they oil better than a 661 and I don't think a 881 is required but will a smaller saw treat me just as well, ms462, 572xp, cs800, g9000?

will I need an aux oiler at that bar length? trying to avoid this but if it is needed I'll probably go with a 2 bar setup (sorter 20 or 24" for smaller wood and a 32" with an aux oiler)

it doesn't seem like there are many other CSM options but is there another brand I should be looking at? quick set up and nonportable are bonuses to me.

I have 2 friends with large band mills LT50 hydro and an older Norwood? hydro and that's not really something that would serve my purpose well plus the cost and having to start from square one learning how to run and sharpen bands is not appealing.

thanks in advance for any/all advice or opinions

 

[r black]

The Husqvarna 395xp is a fine saw..and will work well for milling in most applications ...better than the.... ms661, and for sure ...ms462, 572xp, cs800,...in soft or hard wood ..

 

[djg james]

The Husqvarna 395xp is a fine saw..and will work well for milling in most applications ...better than the.... ms661, and for sure ...ms462, 572xp, cs800,...in soft or hard wood ..

Just curious why you rate the 395xp better than the ms661 for milling? HP? Better oiler?
Not meaning to start a Husky vs Stihl controversy.

 

[r black]

Just curious why you rate the 395xp better than the ms661 for milling? HP? Better oiler?
Not meaning to start a Husky vs Stihl controversy.

mostly just the better oiler , and old school design , both saws will work

 

[industrialsized]

Would I be better served getting a 880 or 881? I have seen that the 3120 doesn't fit the logosol and also the front chain adjuster and position of the fuel/caps is an inconvenience so that's out but will I be wanting for the extra displacement of the 88x sthils?

 

[TRTermite]

Would I be better served getting a 880 or 881? I have seen that the 3120 doesn't fit the logosol and also the front chain adjuster and position of the fuel/caps is an inconvenience so that's out but will I be wanting for the extra displacement of the 88x sthils?

I haven't done the CSM "YET" but from what I have read the size of the saw makes a difference at the end of the day. There is a lot of differences in the 395 and 880/881 Have you read the thread "Chainsaw milling 101"? 15 pages and most all of it worth reading.ESPECIALLY if you are getting ready to spend BIG.Some of the older saws have a lot of "Good factors" in their favor but parts availability can be an issue.

 

[industrialsized]

I haven't done the CSM "YET" but from what I have read the size of the saw makes a difference at the end of the day. There is a lot of differences in the 395 and 880/881 Have you read the thread "Chainsaw milling 101"? 15 pages and most all of it worth reading.ESPECIALLY if you are getting ready to spend BIG.Some of the older saws have a lot of "Good factors" in their favor but parts availability can be an issue.

I have read the 101 a few times and there seems to be a real grey area where people say you want all the displacement you can get but also the 395 is a great mill saw. I believe there is a difference in my purpose for milling and what other most CSMers are doing, I'm not trying to slab giant wood. all my logs will be between 16" and 28" and what is the best saw for that? Is that the sweet spot for the 395 or would an 88x offer some advantage like not having to use a aux oiler, less fuel consumption, or a quicker cutting speed through the log? I know there probably aren't definitive answers what I'm looking for are suggestions.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I have read the 101 a few times and there seems to be a real grey area where people say you want all the displacement you can get but also the 395 is a great mill saw. I believe there is a difference in my purpose for milling and what other most CSMers are doing, I'm not trying to slab giant wood. all my logs will be between 16" and 28" and what is the best saw for that? Is that the sweet spot for the 395 or would an 88x offer some advantage like not having to use a aux oiler, less fuel consumption, or a quicker cutting speed through the log? I know there probably aren't definitive answers what I'm looking for are suggestions.

395 or a 660 as is stock or something else?

The built and ported 660's I'm building and running are pulling a 36" with full comp surprisingly well through dry ash and maple up to 29" across. Milling for speed is my main concern not the face finish. The 395 can oil a 42" my 660 saw is only setup to wet a 40" max in 404. Your not keeping a 42" 050 in 375 wet unless your running a bigger pump than an HO setup in Stihl chainsaws. The 395 will save you some money but so would a smaller saw. I wouldn't normally recommend a 661 for milling but you do small stuff not the monsters some of us target. Decide if you need the extra power in a ported power head or just more everything like the bigger saws offer. Now if you only plan to mill up to a 24" softwood you could sneak by with 79-88CCs if the oil pump can feed your 28" bar very well. Ported would be better but not required 790xx, 460, 8 series Mac, add a Husky here under 84ccs, Echo 800 would be the cheapest new. Everything on the mill needs heft and weight to pull down lower in the rpm range. Carrying a big saw makes the work go faster if you so desire. If not then get your saw built by someone who does more than cookie cutters is all I'm saying. 660 has the longer 40mm crank but the 395 is spring AV with a bigger oil pump and better filtration, just facts. Spring AV that is proven is the only way to go if you go that route. Cheap stuff just won't stay together long or a poorly done cylinders. When you have saws lined up that can make pass after pass in the summer heat here you got your it together. My current issue is boiling the oil in my saw tank

You really should consider running a 32" or 36" for some added wiggle room. The 32" is good if you ever plan to do Ys. Getting a chain dialed in will take some time. Cutting doubles is an option with long thin sticks and 32 or 36" bars. That chain is always worth the time spent to be faster in the cut doing long stuff. PM me if I can help with any specific mod questions your going to do but most of it is out there already. Opening the muffler or getting one done to swap on a new saw is a good idea most times to let out the heat better. If you have any other saw choices and why post them up.

GL and enjoy it

Edit: Um... the big dogs just are not need here 1124 24"

 

[industrialsized]

Thanks Lightning,
Glad to hear from someone that has some experience. I wasn't planning on any mods other than quality 40:1 and hogging the muffler out to release heat. when the saw starts getting tired I'll send it off for a port job on the new cylinder but until then stock.

32" .050 3/8 is what I'll order

 

[Lightning Performance]

You could try a Dukes piston. He has a popup with that new coating for a few models. I'm going to run some this summer and see how it goes.

Just tune it fat and keep those filters clean. Run the hell out it! Stihl saws are tough and you should have little issue with one or a 395xp. Keep RPMs up.

 

[Parkerpusher]

395 is the right saw. You wont have trouble with oiling, just keep the chain speed up and go slow. Plan for an entire day on the F2 assembly.

 

[dgarrett]

I had the older Logosol F5 with the MS 660.. Later I put a 395xp on it... I preferred the 395 but both did the job just fine... Another thing to consider is if you want to expand and buy any of the logosol accessories.. Most are designed for the MS 660 .. The log shaper planer ect. I have a new F2+ and bought a new 395 for it... Both saws will work just fine on the Logosol

 

[Mad Professor]

I've had a M5 and 066 for ~20 years now, I like both a lot. The 066 got a DP muffler cover. I'm still using the 63PMX picco/lo pro chain. It's hard to find 3003 mount bars with picco sprockets. Some places are selling picco rims for the larger stihls now.

The F2 seems to be an improvement over the M5. I think either the Stihl or Husky saws you are considering will work fine.

I'm not sure if they still offer it but they sold an aux oiler/water drip. That is something I'd consider, or fabricate one. Chains will stay sharper and bars/chains will last longer

You'll also want a set of ramps to load logs with. That was first thing I did, milled up some 16/4 ash and built portable ramps. The ramps come apart without tools and have steps so 1 man can load good sized logs just using a peavy. I need to get some pictures of the ramp next time I'm milling.

 

[industrialsized]

I have read the comment that a good solid base to assemble and run on is the most critical thing to good cuts, do you thing that timbers set on concrete block is enough or do I need to setup with compacted gravel and a deck?


that's a good point about stepped ramps and a bit of a log deck, how much vertical rise do you find easy to work with?

 

[industrialsized]

I had the older Logosol F5 with the MS 660.. Later I put a 395xp on it... I preferred the 395 but both did the job just fine... Another thing to consider is if you want to expand and buy any of the logosol accessories.. Most are designed for the MS 660 .. The log shaper planer ect. I have a new F2+ and bought a new 395 for it... Both saws will work just fine on the Logosol

that is another thing I hadn't considered thank you.

 

[Parkerpusher]

I feel like I remember having to modify the mounting plate to fit my 395 but my memory might not be right

 

[Mad Professor]

I have read the comment that a good solid base to assemble and run on is the most critical thing to good cuts, do you thing that timbers set on concrete block is enough or do I need to setup with compacted gravel and a deck?


that's a good point about stepped ramps and a bit of a log deck, how much vertical rise do you find easy to work with?

The setup for the M5 in the manual was to use boards screwed to the legs and boards between the sets of legs (parallel to the length of frame) screwed to those. I used 2 X 6" PT boards and I've just setup on firm level ground. You can leave those mounted on the mill and two people can pickup the whole thing onto a trailer or pickup bed to move the mill.

I cut up a few junk logs for stickers and the mill settles in and I check that everything is still square/even. Ideally a concrete slab would be best but I bring the mill close to where I'm getting the logs.

For the ramps I just scribed steps into the 4 X 12" planks I milled, and roughed out the steps with a saw. I guess I took a good guess on the length of the ramps, and steps, as they have worked well. I'd guess the ramps are 6-7' long. It goes easier with two people with peavys rolling the logs up, but if you are careful you can do it alone. It's the big logs that are near the capacity of the mill where a helper comes in handy.

 

[motolife313]

Go with a 880 or 3120 so you can get into the big stuff. Even on small stuff 24” logs the 3120 is the way to go. It’s what I use and works good. Have a 064 which is comparable to the 395 and it’s a bit much for 24” log if white oak. I run a 32” bar on that. The mill I made for it is 24” wide and probably too much to do a long run with it at that width unless it’s walnut or a softer wood. 3120 will eat whatever you got in front of it

 

[Mad Professor]

Go with a 880 or 3120 so you can get into the big stuff. Even on small stuff 24” logs the 3120 is the way to go. It’s what I use and works good. Have a 064 which is comparable to the 395 and it’s a bit much for 24” log if white oak. I run a 32” bar on that. The mill I made for it is 24” wide and probably too much to do a long run with it at that width unless it’s walnut or a softer wood. 3120 will eat whatever you got in front of itView attachment 994782View attachment 994783View attachment 994784

Great pictures and kids.

OP is not going to be able to cut trees anything that size with a logosol mill. That's why I said 90-100cc saws would be best.

 

[motolife313]

My mill cost me about 20$