Stove installation questions...

[gggGary]

I solved a poor draft on a wood stove into a masonry chimney problem by using double wall pipe between the stove and chimney. Keeps the exhaust hot enough to maintain draft with a low fire rate. Really reduced a creosote build up problem also.
They sell interior double wall flue pipe, it's not nearly as expensive as chimney pipe.
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/black-stove-pipes/double-wall-black-stove-pipePS you say "installed in a garage". Code and your insurance company prohibit installation of a solid fuel appliance in a garage.
They get all antsy about gasoline vapors and open flame.....
A common definition of garage is any room with a door large enough for a car to pass through.
PPS if that's sheetrock screwed to studs behind the stove you prolly also have clearance issues.
Just call me bubble popper.

 

[ErnieG]

I solved a poor draft on a wood stove into a masonry chimney problem by using double wall pipe between the stove and chimney. Keeps the exhaust hot enough to maintain draft with a low fire rate. Really reduced a creosote build up problem also.
They sell interior double wall flue pipe, it's not nearly as expensive as chimney pipe.
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/black-stove-pipes/double-wall-black-stove-pipePS you say "installed in a garage". Code and your insurance company prohibit installation of a solid fuel appliance in a garage.
They get all antsy about gasoline vapors and open flame.....
A common definition of garage is any room with a door large enough for a car to pass through.
PPS if that's sheetrock screwed to studs behind the stove you prolly also have clearance issues.
Just call me bubble popper.

The extra pipe I added to the top seems to have taken care of my draft issue ...its burning much better with only regulating the air with one vent and leaving the damper open .

I've already contacted my insurance and they said it was fine because I have water in there ...I'm also going to have it all inspected by a local stove dealer and have it in writing for me and send a copy of it to my insurance.

Your not popping any bubbles here and that's Hardie board NOT DRYWALL!

Ernie

 

[JimmyT]

Howdy Ernie, I've got a Fisher Papa Bear stove that I have been using for 40 years and burn 5 cords per winter. It looks a lot like yours but just a bit larger. I think mine will hold about 4 cubic feet of firewood and is a air tight model. I used a damper the first year then chunked it and now only use the air flow controls. Your flu pipe needs to be 2 feet above the roof ridge. It sounds like you are producing a little creosote so open up bit on your air controls about one revolution on each control from the closed position so the fire will burn hotter. I prefer burning red oak.Easy to split, burns hot and leaves less ash. That chugging sound is good and means you have a clean stack and it is normal on start up but it also means that you have a over burn and the stove is starving for more air so you need to throttle back to 1 rev on the air control knobs after about 20 minutes of initial start up.You want your stove to achieve a good kindling temperature then cut her back a bit. This sounds like a oxymoron but you will get the hang of it after a few burns.

 

[ErnieG]

Howdy Ernie, I've got a Fisher Papa Bear stove that I have been using for 40 years and burn 5 cords per winter. It looks a lot like yours but just a bit larger. I think mine will hold about 4 cubic feet of firewood and is a air tight model. I used a damper the first year then chunked it and now only use the air flow controls. Your flu pipe needs to be 2 feet above the roof ridge. It sounds like you are producing a little creosote so open up bit on your air controls about one revolution on each control from the closed position so the fire will burn hotter. I prefer burning red oak. Burns hot and leaves less ash. That chugging sound is good and means you have a clean stack. Remember to open your air controls wide open on start up for about 20 minutes then throttle back to 1 rev.

Here it is now with the 3' piece added ...its about 1' above the peak now .

 

[JimmyT]

Looks good Ernie and should work just fine with your gambrel roof style.

 

[farmer steve]

Looks good Ernie. Hope that fixes your issues.

 

[Mad Professor]

This might help. From national code.

 

[Someclown]

Good to see it worked out
I can't tell if you have one on there but
I would also recommend adding a chimney roof support bracket to the top pieces of chimney pipe, thats a lot of pipe to have unsupported in windy conditions

 

[JimmyT]

Also Ernie you might want to consider a good ember or coal catcher so you can separate the embers from the ashes for your next burn cycle. This is what I use and it works great.

Lxmons Litter Scoop​

You may have to modify and lengthen the handle since you have a elongated stove like mine. It actually works way better than the Koal Keeper Shovel.

​

P.S. Do you have a patent on that Nagging Mother-in-law door on the second floor.

 

[JimmyT]

Ernie, if the liquid creosote problem persists stick with the 2 year old seasoned oak and add a stick of black locust right in the center of the oak to increase the kindling temperature. I had the same problem 40 years ago with the tall cool Selkirk stack. I've read that a chase built around the double wall stainless steel flu pipe will also help but I just solved my creosote problem with a higher temperature by increasing the air flow and adding the black locust changing the liquid creosote into steam and out the stack cap.

 

[Greenland South]

Having looked at your photos and reading your posts there are a couple things I would suggest.
Wood stove chimneys must be a minimum 36” high from the highest point where they exit the roof surface. And a minimum of 24” higher than any structure or roof within a 10’ radius.
Exterior mounted chimney flues such as the one you have will operate much cooler and always underperform when it comes to proper draft. Enclosing the chimney in a chase maintaining the required clearances to combustibles is recommended.
As others have mentioned get rid of or don’t use the key damper in your flue pipe. All the best.
PG

 

[tcass]

You're absolutely right; the damper was a great help on things like kitchen and parlour stoves back in the 1940's and 1950's that consisted of various cast iron parts bolted together with no gaskets to seal them up; they leaked inlet air almost uncontrollably. Then along came the airtight stoves of the 70's with the back-to-the-country hippie movement, where one could make as much smoke from incomplete combustion as one wanted. The picture you posted of your stove looks like one of those like a Fisher, a welded box that is as airtight as those two inlet dampers in the door will provide. I will bet from what I see, that stove pipe damper position notwithstanding, you can put the fire out in that stove by shutting those air inlets tight, if the door seal is properly installed and working. That makes the pipe damper redundant; it can't stop air going out that the door dampers don't let in. If it could--where would that air come from?

i think they still help. no, they dont cut off all the air but it helps restrict the flow. when used in combination with the stove air controls, it assists in getting a better control of the fire (jmho). I grew up in a wood burning house in the 60s and and have been burning wood since i returned from military service in 82. ive had various wood stoves from a barrel stove to a cat stove, cast iron and steel. I've always used or installed a damper. i think they can help......necessary, probably not but for me, the cost of the damper is minimal and i use it every burn.