Straight cutting worm drive circular saw?

[Blue42]

Hey guys. I've gotten the steel base plate Skil saw, which was warped, and now have the magnesium one. The base plate flexes easily, and a lot. With barely more than the weight of the saw resting on the plate, the left front corner will twist well off the cutting surface, with the other three corners of the plate still touching--the telltale sign of a non rigid, twisting structure.

I imagine this is how they all will be. But is it worth trying a Bosch? I want straight cuts that I might be able to glue together without working on the edges with a planer for hours. I'm making a door out of oak slabs I cut right now. About 6/4 thick. So I need a worm drive saw to be able to cut it without taxing the motor.

 

[ATH]

If you want glue-ready edges, you have the wrong tool. Especially with 6/4.

A good table saw with a good fence and a good blade can do that. Otherwise, you are going to need a jointer or hand plane.

If you must use a circular saw, i think traditional saws are considered more accurate (but less powerful) than worm drive saws. Maybe a bigger saw is in order...if a tablesaw isn't an option.

 

[Franny K]

I would suggest making a larger base that attaches to the existing base. Perhaps plywood on the base and 1x2 frame on the up side. Then attach essentially a rip fence to the wooden base. I left Skil and went to Makita, (discontinued parts) they have a hypoid saw not worm drive but essentially the same idea the shaft the blade is on is much longer than a normal type.. I got the Magnesium base Makita 7 1/4 unfortulnately the 8 1/4 models running at a bit lower rpm are not available in Makita. I have my doubts your base is flexing but those bases are kind of narrow and maybe the attachment points have play.

Run the saw along a straight edge like a one foot piece off a new plywood sheet. I often use a magnesium concrete screed but that must be on the opposite side to the motor so likely won't work unless you use a narrow block between the saw base and the screed or straight 2x4 for that matter.

 

[Blue42]

Thanks for the replies. I wonder if the Makita has less play. I know it's the wrong tool for the job, but the right tool is a track saw for $1100. All the track saws except Festool 75 are 6.5 and don't have the power to reliably cut thick hardwood. According to the reviews. And I don't doubt them.
I don't have room for a table saw, and feeding these 150 lb slabs into it doesn't appeal to me. Also, I dont know how to cut a straight line where I want it to be when I have a live edge that won't ride smoothly on the fence. I guess you have to screw another straight edge the length of the slab to run it against the fence? Sounds like fun.
.
Today I went ahead and used the saw. And a Bora aluminum straight edge. The straight edge leaves something to be desired. It flexes in the middle. And the clamp is too tight. It pulls itself too tight when you secure the built in clamp and pulls itself apart at the joining part, or makes itself bow. But I got decently straight cuts, and out the electric hand planer on it with pretty good results.
My edges are looking decent now, but I might try that trick of butting the two slabs together and running the saw down the middle so that any deviation from a true cut just produces a matching deviation in both sides, like a nicely fitting puzzle.
One day I may take that step of making a wider and more rigid base plate for the saw. But there's also play in the pins that hold the saw to the base. Substantial play. Yea, clearly the wrong tool for the job. Maybe I could squeeze some epoxy into the pin/screw to take out some of the slop and possible still be able to adjust the cut depth after breaking the bond.

The concrete screed has to be on the opposite side as the motor because the motor doesn't clear it? Yea. I ran into that with the Bora straight edge. It's too tall and hits the motor before the base plate. I returned a sidewinder saw because of that surprise. But the worm drive motors sit higher than sidewinder I think, and clear it while still being able to cut 2" deep.

 

[ironman_gq]

https://www.amazon.com/KREG-KMA3700-Kreg-ACCU-Cut-XL/dp/B07MDLDCW4/ref=psdc_552924_t1_B073PGP96S
Turn the saw you have into a track saw

 

[Blue42]

https://www.amazon.com/KREG-KMA3700-Kreg-ACCU-Cut-XL/dp/B07MDLDCW4/ref=psdc_552924_t1_B073PGP96S
Turn the saw you have into a track saw

Thanks for the link. But I tried that thing and didn't think much of it. There was so much play in the plastic sled, I could hardly believe it. I returned it.

 

[Blue42]

Anyway, I got back on the forum to post pictures of the finished product. It's the first thing I've made after the ton of work I've done milling.