The most expensive thing I ever learned about a chainsaw…

[SamT1]

I used to have a lot of issues with bar life. Cutting dry mesquite that’s in sandyland and has sand in it. I would have a bar groove worn so wide a new chain lays over in under 20 cord. Tried all sorts of bars and just settled on running cheapies or stuff I found on sale. I was spending $500 plus a year on bars. When I was running 036 and 360 saws I’d spend more on bars than the saw by the time I was done with it.
A few years ago I learned a trick on here about starting with .050 bar and chain and working my way up to .063. Well that little trick has saved me a grand or more that last couple years. I’ve been buying tsumura bars and getting over 100 cords out of one now. It lasts a really long time at .058.
I don’t remember who told me to do that, but if I would have known that when I started cutting wood I’d have saved 10k easy.
I really wish that my massive stack of “worn out” Stihl duramatic .050 bars was still in the shop at my grandmothers and I’d never have to buy a bar again. But they made it the scrap yard at some point.

 

[Jonny Quest]

The most expensive thing I ever learned about a chainsaw is that you can‘t buy just one. They multiply in your garage. And then your wife figures out that “chainsaw” really means bars, chain, oil, tools, parts, big-bore kits, chaps, wedges, axe, winch and a new truck. Damn expensive things, those chainsaws.

JQ

 

[JRenna]

My wife wonders why I have 2 chainsaws and an axe. Doesn't sound like much compared to most on here but I don't have a single tree in my yard and an electric heat pump

 

[user 122190]

Must have 2 saws! Back in the early days, when I had only my ms290, I blued the clutch and smoked the bar, trying to cut to it out of a pinch. I got it out. I was pretty green in my knowledge of saws, and that was a good lesson.

 

[AGrig06]

I got three hot rods in one year haha! I got a Pro Mac 10-10 in august, a new Echo 4910 in november, and a free Kioritz 452VL in december! They all start one pull, I baby them too much. The 452VL I got pretty much new, it's been sitting ten years with about three hours of use on it. I poured the 2012 gas out of it and poured fresh 32:1. Man that thing just roared to life after sitting so long. Surprisingly the fuel line, diaphragms, and clunk (fuel filter) are all mint and new? Somehow the ethanol didn't eat it's way through any of them. The top label has nicotine yellowing on it, probably since its been in in grandpa's chevy for most of it's life just sitting back in the bed, with second hand smoke flowing out the back window LOL. Otherwise, it's in pretty good shape for a saw built in 84.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Okay, I will play.

If a part comes in a genuine Stihl plastic bag- it is going to be expensive.
Do not chase unicorn parts for unicorn saws.
Often it is cheaper to buy a complete runner than start with a wreck for a total rebuild.
Standardise chains and bars as much as possible.
20cc is a much more suitable gap between saws than 10cc.
If you see something OEM at a price that seems too good to be true- do NOT hesitate and take the time to think about it.

 

[Del_]

I used to have a lot of issues with bar life. Cutting dry mesquite that’s in sandyland and has sand in it. I would have a bar groove worn so wide a new chain lays over in under 20 cord. Tried all sorts of bars and just settled on running cheapies or stuff I found on sale. I was spending $500 plus a year on bars. When I was running 036 and 360 saws I’d spend more on bars than the saw by the time I was done with it.
A few years ago I learned a trick on here about starting with .050 bar and chain and working my way up to .063. Well that little trick has saved me a grand or more that last couple years. I’ve been buying tsumura bars and getting over 100 cords out of one now. It lasts a really long time at .058.
I don’t remember who told me to do that, but if I would have known that when I started cutting wood I’d have saved 10k easy.
I really wish that my massive stack of “worn out” Stihl duramatic .050 bars was still in the shop at my grandmothers and I’d never have to buy a bar again. But they made it the scrap yard at some point.

I've read that a worn bar can accept the next larger thickness of drive tangs. I've never tried it.

I'm surprised that the bar groove widens evenly enough from wear to accept the next thickness.

I'm glad to hear that it does!

 

[Cruelsun]

I used to have a lot of issues with bar life. Cutting dry mesquite that’s in sandyland and has sand in it. I would have a bar groove worn so wide a new chain lays over in under 20 cord. Tried all sorts of bars and just settled on running cheapies or stuff I found on sale. I was spending $500 plus a year on bars. When I was running 036 and 360 saws I’d spend more on bars than the saw by the time I was done with it.
A few years ago I learned a trick on here about starting with .050 bar and chain and working my way up to .063. Well that little trick has saved me a grand or more that last couple years. I’ve been buying tsumura bars and getting over 100 cords out of one now. It lasts a really long time at .058.
I don’t remember who told me to do that, but if I would have known that when I started cutting wood I’d have saved 10k easy.
I really wish that my massive stack of “worn out” Stihl duramatic .050 bars was still in the shop at my grandmothers and I’d never have to buy a bar again. But they made it the scrap yard at some point.

I doubt that I'll ever get to use this knowledge, or remember it if I'm in a situation there it would be helpful. But that's why I read this forum.
Thank you for sharing!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Huntaholic]

Most expensive, STUPID thing Ive ever learned about a chainsaw is to not sit it down on the dozer tracks and forget its there.

 

[Woodslasher]

The most expensive thing I've learned? That would be two related lessons, never buy a saw without thoroughly looking it over and if you rebuild a Stihl (or an "obsolete" brand/model) you'll almost never get as much out of it as you put into it. My brother learned that you never move a saw away from where the dozer operator put it, my dad learned that a saw that falls out of a truck will disappear off of a roadway in less than a few minutes, and my neighbor learned that a 3' dia pine round will bust up an 056 pretty badly, steel full wrap or not.

 

[AGrig06]

To those of you that saw my 452VL, here's something even more impressive that you don't usually get with the old hot rods...

 

[gggGary]

That even a brand new MS 390 ain't designed for long hard work.
There's some other nuggets in the story but that's the main take away.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The most expensive thing I ever learned about a chainsaw is that you can‘t buy just one. They multiply in your garage. And then your wife figures out that “chainsaw” really means bars, chain, oil, tools, parts, big-bore kits, chaps, wedges, axe, winch and a new truck. Damn expensive things, those chainsaws.

JQ

After you've been at this awhile you don't have to go looking for saws, they come looking for you!

 

[LuDookie]

Most expensive, STUPID thing Ive ever learned about a chainsaw is to not sit it down on the dozer tracks and forget its there.

That’s right! And if there’s grapple or a tractor working, always be careful about where you set your saws down. Even for a second. Those tracks will find it quick.

 

[swingdjted]

Expensive lessons that I personally have learned regarding chainsaws (from least expensive to most):

Forgetting to put the bar oil cap back on the jug right away can sometimes lead to a spill when you're not looking. Maybe around $14?
Offering to cut stumps low or as flat to the ground as possible to save the customer from having to get the stump ground ruins chains and bars quickly. Couple hundred dollars?
Getting "just one more" cut on a dull chain so you don't have to spend more time sharpening or changing chains on site will take much more time in the long run when you have to file more metal off because of it. Hard to estimate, but lots of work hours over the years at a significant hourly rate of pay.
Having to buy heavy standard bars while waiting for ES Light bars to come in from backorder is expensive and wasteful. Maybe a few hundred dollars up to a grand?
Never trust other people's mixed fuel to be mixed correctly or mixed at all. Only happened once but was at least a half grand job to fix.
Insurance copays and lost work time from a hernia operation and recovery cost more than what was earned by taking every job I could physically fit in the daylight available. I can't even begin to estimate a cost on this one. Keep your work hours reasonable and use light saws/bars and use equipment instead of your body when possible and/or get your coworkers to help you. There's nothing manly about limping around with a big mesh patch inside your gut and 15 staples on your skin when you could be out there working.

 

[CJ1]

DON'T LOAN A SAW OUT! The end. CJ

 

[GeeVee]

That a Stihl 064 with a 32" bar is not "too heavy" for the neighbors drug addled son to walk off with. Once in a moment of sobriety, he apologzed to my wife for stealing her beach cruiser and selling it. He has yet to see me face to face. After jail, and a few expensive rehab visits, he continues to fall down. His parents moved, so he wont be visiting their home next to mine, but I hear he's currently not in jail. Why he isn't in Florida's care after stealing his parents guns and pawning them, I dont know. (among a ton of other thefts, including passing forged bills) We have a 10-15-25 law here about guns..... Pisses me off, I didn't realize the saw was gone until I went looking for it in the garage in the fenced back yard. I keep my smaller saws in my enclosed (locked) trailer. And- it was minty with known low hours.

 

[LuDookie]

DON'T LOAN A SAW OUT! The end. CJ

Amen

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The small engine shop near me loans them out all the time and they come back in all different conditions. Who knew you had to mix oil into the gas?

 

[bullittman281]

DON'T LOAN A SAW OUT! The end. CJ

THIS!!!!!

Mine now come with an operator.