Thinking of a taller wedge for a Super Splitter

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fireheart

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I got my Super Splitter a couple of weeks ago and so far WOW!
I've been cutting and splitting for 30 years with a hydraulic 27 ton from tractor supply. Never found anything it couldn't split.
The last storm felled a tree right on my log splitter and that was the end of that. I had been looking and reading about Super Splitter, and this was the opportunity to change horses.
The top of my pile has some green oak, 23-24" rounds I bucked up. It's a bear and gets stuck on the wedge trying to nip pieces off. I have the HD model with 90 lb wheels. The split in the round is as tall as the wedge and must be pushed through with another piece of wood, but still it's apt to get stuck on the wedge. The wedge itself is 6" H x 4.5" W x 3/4" T.
I'd like to just add another just like this one welded right onto the top, but I'm not getting a good feeling about that, maybe too much stress on the I beam?
I'm thinking someone here knows more about log splitters than I do and it would be a kind share to send some knowledge my way. Thanks in advanceI
 

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Just need to make sure it's attached well enough and or add a back brace to tie it into the beam. Ripped a few off my splitter before I decided to reinforce the entire wedge to the beam. No problems after that.
 
Just need to make sure it's attached well enough and or add a back brace to tie it into the beam. Ripped a few off my splitter before I decided to reinforce the entire wedge to the beam. No problems after that.
Well Done!
 
Yes. Changing from a box store hydraulic splitter to a SuperSplit is an enormous grin popping shift.
That being said, the HD is not a hydraulic splitter and will not split everything. There are trade offs at each price level.
I have no direct knowledge to share about SuperSplit wedge modifications, but would suggest you sell the HD machine and order the heavy duty SE model rather than that type of modification.
Your hesitation may be warranted.
It would be like asking a half ton truck to do the work of a one tone truck.
The SE has a taller, more supported wedge, and 9 hp engine with gear reduction.
I noodle larger rounds so I can lift them, and then the SSHD handles the halves with ease. Noodling takes very little effort. It does create a bit of a mess to clean up.

The larger machine also has heavier flywheels, making the entire package harder to move by hand. One of the trade offs.
I use my SSHD with a conveyor, so the optional hitch and coupler on the out feed end was not going to work in the wood lot. The forklift tubes was a modification prior to the four wheel mod, which I left on.
None of these changes effect the integrity of the splitter, and can be removed via a few bolts and replacing the original out feed leg. There is also a white phenolic sheet on the out feed table. Not necessary when the splitter is new, but once the paint wears off and a toothy rust appears from humidity, the slippery, self healing phenolic is really sweet for re splitting.
Based on the painted wedge, or rather lack of paint, and owning for a few weeks, I'm wondering if you bought this unit new?
 

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Thanks so much for the Knowledgable information! When I was deciding on which model to order I was hesitant on the SE model because of what the SS web site suggested. Few people not selling wood would need this model. I also based my model decision on the majority of people ordering a J model, so I went up a notch for the HD. I cut and split around 5-6 chord a year for my heat.
The majority of wood supply here in eastern PA is red oak and it can be a challenge. The rounds I am working on now are 23" green and HARD. I noodled the larger wounds helping me move these around on the table and off of the wedge. First year I have to do much of this.
From what I've learned I don't think I'll heighten the wedge fearing weakening the I beam.
Yes, this is brand spankin new, so that wear you see is from my splitting.
I like your set up and perhaps some day a conveyer of sorts would be nice, but right now I am tickled about the speed of splitting rounds under the 20" mark. Most of my time in the past was spent on waiting.
Perhaps in time I'll sell and order a SE model, but right now I need to split. Wondering if the SE model has a larger I beam? I'll do some more research. Hopes this helps others in their decision making for a SS. You've been a huge help and support. Thanks again.
 
24" is the max. If all your cuts are 24" I'd get the SE model or talk to Paul the owner. He's very helpful and won't let you buy something that's not right for you.
 
High speed splitter that won’t split everything sounds like a waste of money to me. Maybe if all your rounds are perfect and you sell wood the SS is worth it but I doesn’t seem like it for your average firewood guy. That’s been proven over and over online, I don’t understand the love for them. Sell it and buy a new hydro splitter.
 
High speed splitter that won’t split everything sounds like a waste of money to me. Maybe if all your rounds are perfect and you sell wood the SS is worth it but I doesn’t seem like it for your average firewood guy. That’s been proven over and over online, I don’t understand the love for them. Sell it and buy a new hydro splitter.

I've got an old Huskee 35 ton rig. It's been nearly perfect in 12 years/10ish cords a year. Could probably go another 12 years at this rate with basic maintenance. If I were to buy another splitter it would most certainly be something with a lift so I could split standing up. I can't recall the last time I ran my splitter horizontal, it's been years. Everything I split is big and heavy and wears on the back and knees.
 

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For reference..I run a tw6 and a SS...if the wood fairies drop off good wood I'll use the SS...if the crap is the usual crap the tree service guys drop off I yell and scream at them until they drop off good stuff...or their saw repairs magically get delayed 😑...
The SS has a use and there's times when it will outrun my 6 if run by myself. The SS needs to be run like a maul by hand mentally. You don't just throw a 30" oak round up there and hack away...you need to "peel" at it like you would a maul. If a few rounds fight back too much, skip them and come back later with the saw. There is a learning curve and it is NOT a hydro splitter.
 
I have a Huskee 20T. First time I used it on big stuff I kept it vertical and stayed on my knees. Had someone tell me I was doing it wrong.
Put it vertical, split the big stuff once or twice, then move it out of the way. When you have enough around you that you can't move, go horizontal and finish. Been doing it like that for over 20 years now. Sounds slow, but quicker and easier than staying on the knees the whole time.


I've got an old Huskee 35 ton rig. It's been nearly perfect in 12 years/10ish cords a year. Could probably go another 12 years at this rate with basic maintenance. If I were to buy another splitter it would most certainly be something with a lift so I could split standing up. I can't recall the last time I ran my splitter horizontal, it's been years. Everything I split is big and heavy and wears on the back and knees.
 
Hey Elevator Guy!
I know what its like to trust your hydro splitter knowing it will split anything you give it. After a very long 30 years I began to realize the majority of my time splitting was spent standing by a hot engine waiting for the wedge to finish its' sightseeing tour.
I watched as lots of people on YouTube used a SS splitter, and at first I was skeptical, but it slowly dawned its' light on my foggy mind. I watched and listened to people even the ones selling cords. The joy is in the pure delight of splitting a cord in less then a day without killing yourself.
There is a learning curve and you learn quickly how to place the different rounds so they just give up..... and let themselves be split by the wedge.
I consider my self an average homeowner who loves to buck and split wood for winters' heat. I now know why so many people love the SS. Best of luck to you.
We still have the freedom to choose.
 
I talked to Paul about this very issue. His stance was that adding a taller wedge was a bad idea as it would add more resistance and could wear out the cam gear and rack pre maturely, even with the HD and SE.
 
I welded a 1 1/2” piece of chipper knife on the top of my existing wedge, but I did recess it a bit so it’s still just the initial wedge height making contact with the piece of wood. It’s been a nice improvement performance wise and I’ve yet to see the machine notice it when operating (bogging, frame flex, etc). I’d feel comfortable going to 2” or maybe a little more. The chipper knife is very hard steel. I tried cutting it with a bandsaw at first and it quickly smoked my blade. So I think it should hold up well.
 
I welded a 1 1/2” piece of chipper knife on the top of my existing wedge, but I did recess it a bit so it’s still just the initial wedge height making contact with the piece of wood. It’s been a nice improvement performance wise and I’ve yet to see the machine notice it when operating (bogging, frame flex, etc). I’d feel comfortable going to 2” or maybe a little more. The chipper knife is very hard steel. I tried cutting it with a bandsaw at first and it quickly smoked my blade. So I think it should hold up well.
If one were to do it, that is the best way. Set it back so that the main wedge takes most of the initial resistance/hit. The setback higher wedge would come in as a secondary to cut strings and such.
 
I think it all comes down to how you plan to use the splitter. The forces add up fast when you increase the height of the wedge and ram. I made a removeable 4 way wedge for my original SS (modified J model). The wings and additional top wedge were set back. (check out the youtube video)
I currently have an SE that is mostly stock and a J model I converted/ built into an SE and has a 4 way box wedge (basically 3X SS wedges.)

Last I knew the pinions and beam are the same for all models. The SE gets a wider rack. The SE has an extras stiffener on the back side of the wedge.
 

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