Thoughts on running saws empty?

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Den

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Ever since I was a youngster, I've always run the saw until it sputtered and died... completely empty. Re-fueled it, and did the same thing again. But over the years, I've often thought about this practice possibly causing excessive wear on the saw over time.
You figure, the fuel filter is sitting in an empty fuel tank at that point, and the saw is running on whatever it can scavenge out of the filter, fuel line, and carb. The saw is running lean for a period of time. I'm sure this practice reduces critical oil to the bottom and top end... at least for a little while.
Any thoughts.


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I ALWAYS run my saws empty when storing them for a while. If I know I won't use them before the fuel mix goes stale (Stihl recommends using no fuel mix for longer than 6 weeks), they are run dry - at idle. There is more than enough residual lube in the P/C assembly to keep things running smoothly. Once the saw dies, I'll give it a minute or two, then start it again. This can occur up to 5 times before it's completely out of fuel. This ensures that the fine lines in the carb are completely fuel-free, and almost guarantees that I don't have startup problems on the next session. 22+ years and the method has never let me down.

If I'm cutting again in a week or two, I don't bother running the saws dry. With a good choke, they start right up!

Hope this helps.

Mike
 
My apologies! I re-read the OP's post and saw it was not aimed at the shutdown. I agree, when you are in the cut, and plan to continue cutting, fill up before it leans out. The saw will tell you it's low on fuel by idling slightly higher than normal.... and no, definitely do not run it dry under load in a cut!!!!!

My post was meant only for the shutdown procedure.... :omg:

Hope this helps!

Mike
 
Ran at least 7 tanks a day through our saws and all of them were ran dry. Never a issue. To this day I do the same thing. Most of the time they start revving up a bit in the cut. That tells you to let off and shut it down and grab the other saw. Once in while they start dieing at idle but not very often. Cj
 
I won't run a saw dry when storing. It lessens the amount of residual oil that protects against corrosion. I also don't want the carbp arts in the carb drying out.

I also store a saw with alkylate fuel mixed with Stabil and a shot of fogging oil.

I'm a bit anal on storage as I have had snowmobile motors damaged by corrosion and vowed never again.
 
I won't run a saw dry when storing. It lessens the amount of residual oil that protects against corrosion. I also don't want the carbp arts in the carb drying out.

I also store a saw with alkylate fuel mixed with Stabil and a shot of fogging oil.

I'm a bit anal on storage as I have had snowmobile motors damaged by corrosion and vowed never again.
Fogging oil. I've heard of it but never used it. Is that the stuff old timers put in there out boards? I have read in some of the old stihl owners manuals to put a couple drops of oil down the spark plug hole before storing. I gotta check out that alkyate fuel.
 
I won't run a saw dry when storing. It lessens the amount of residual oil that protects against corrosion. I also don't want the carbp arts in the carb drying out.

I also store a saw with alkylate fuel mixed with Stabil and a shot of fogging oil.

I'm a bit anal on storage as I have had snowmobile motors damaged by corrosion and vowed never again.
Tell me more about alkylate in not familiar with it?
 
Fogging oil. I've heard of it but never used it. Is that the stuff old timers put in there out boards? I have read in some of the old stihl owners manuals to put a couple drops of oil down the spark plug hole before storing. I gotta check out that alkyate fuel.
Yes, that's the stuff. Walmart sells it.
I spray it into the intake will the motor is running until it dies.
 
On subject of fogging...... I do it on my old Polaris sled and atv when they "sleep" in their respected off time. Been using Stabil Fogging Oil in the spray can, but I took the straw and drilled like 6 holes through it various angles with a pin drill/pin vise. Then I plugged the end with a dab of silicone.

This ensures the oil gets sprayed on the cylinder walls and not just pool up on top of the piston. Then I slowly pull engine over aboot 1 revolution, put plug or plugs back in and say goodnight until the season calls.

Been working well so far. I need to get a borescope and take a peek inside before startup to see just well the oil film has spread....

Pin drill.

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At idle is probably fine. At WOT under load you'll burn it up. That was how I seized a 2 stroke ATV when I was a kid. Bad fuel filter was restricting fuel and causing it to run out / lean. After a while one of the rings broke and caught the exhaust port.
 
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