Timber Bear not starting

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Donor saw coil BEFORE baking
Switch wire to ground- 5.8 ohms
Plug wire to ground- 906 ohms

Donor saw coil AFTER baking
Switch wire to ground- 5.9 ohms
Plug wire to ground- 903 ohms

Original saw coil BEFORE baking
Switch wire to ground- .5 ohms
Plug wire to ground- 883 ohms

Original saw coil AFTER baking
Switch wire to ground- 5.7 ohms
Plug wire to ground- 886 ohms

So, it wasn't worth the time nor effort to bake them. Can I say every single coil will never benefit from a 200 degree 2 hour bake? No. But mine definitely didn't.
I appreciate all the help here, and will break down and buy a coil.
I'll respond if it helps my issue. (Which I'm sure it will).
 
Got the new coil, installed it, pulled the recoil and she sputtered. 2nd pull and she fired up for 2 seconds. Now I can't get her to spit at all. Dripped some mixed into the plug hole and she still won't go.
Wtf??
 
The saw is flooding badly... You need to get all the gas out of the crankcase.
Plug out
Held with the plug hole toward ground
Pull over like crazy until gas stops spattering out.
Put plug back in, pull it over holding wide open.
 
The saw is flooding badly... You need to get all the gas out of the crankcase.
Plug out
Held with the plug hole toward ground
Pull over like crazy until gas stops spattering out.
Put plug back in, pull it over holding wide open.
Did that, she fired up and I was able to blip the throttle 3 times before she died.
Low screw is out 1 turn, high screw is out 1-1/8 turns. Where should idle screw be?
I pulled the plug again and it's wet. How do I keep it from flooding? Screw in the needles a little?
 
Did that, she fired up and I was able to blip the throttle 3 times before she died.
Low screw is out 1 turn, high screw is out 1-1/8 turns. Where should idle screw be?
I pulled the plug again and it's wet. How do I keep it from flooding? Screw in the needles a little?
Couple possibilities.... Metering lever set too high in the carb or inlet needle isn't seating, are most likely. Here's what I do, turn the high speed needle fully shut and do the upside down trick, try starting it until it runs out of fuel and dies. Then turn the high speed needle out 3/4 - 1 turn and try it.
I just went through this with a Mini Mac, drove me damn near crazy, metering lever in carb was too high the whole time. That's what I'd investigate. Same symptoms as you're dealing with.
 
Couple possibilities.... Metering lever set too high in the carb or inlet needle isn't seating, are most likely. Here's what I do, turn the high speed needle fully shut and do the upside down trick, try starting it until it runs out of fuel and dies. Then turn the high speed needle out 3/4 - 1 turn and try it.
I just went through this with a Mini Mac, drove me damn near crazy, metering lever in carb was too high the whole time. That's what I'd investigate. Same symptoms as you're dealing with.
Any idea how to check it? Or just do what you said with the high needle?
 
I can't remember this whole thread, but didn't you say the saw was running good before the coil went bad?

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I thought it was. It was rough, so I replaced the carb, and hardly ran it after that due to the recoil taking a crap. Pretty much just ran it in the garage to tune the carb up if I remember right.
 
I thought it was. It was rough, so I replaced the carb, and hardly ran it after that due to the recoil taking a crap. Pretty much just ran it in the garage to tune the carb up if I remember right.
So you but a new aftermarket carb or rebuilt the old carb?

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Any ideas on decent aftermarket ones?
It's hit and miss. I ordered 2 of the same carbs from Amazon and 1 was great and the other wouldn't run.

Walbro has service manuals online for all their carbs. It will tell you how to check the metering lever height.

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Spark plug coming out wet with gas tells me it's a carb issue. Sorry I don't have time to pour through all the posts, but I agree on rebuilding the OEM carb. Diaphragms, gaskets, inlet needle, check the check-valve and metering lever height while you're in the carb. Or, disassemble the aftermarket carb. Walbro or Zama, usually the inlet metering lever should be close to level with the carb body. (See my picture.) I think this was a Zama in which the lever should be flush with the recessed chamber in the carb, but you get the idea.
It's a bummer but I'd bet your "coil issue" was a carb issue the whole time. But hey... now you have spare coils!
 

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Spark plug coming out wet with gas tells me it's a carb issue. Sorry I don't have time to pour through all the posts, but I agree on rebuilding the OEM carb. Diaphragms, gaskets, inlet needle, check the check-valve and metering lever height while you're in the carb. Or, disassemble the aftermarket carb. Walbro or Zama, usually the inlet metering lever should be close to level with the carb body. (See my picture.) I think this was a Zama in which the lever should be flush with the recessed chamber in the carb, but you get the idea.
It's a bummer but I'd bet your "coil issue" was a carb issue the whole time. But hey... now you have spare coils!
I cleared out any chance of a flooded cylinder multiple times and it never showed any signs of life until I threw the new coil on.
I don't have the original carb I don't think...
I'll tear the aftermarket one open tonight or tomorrow and see what I can see. I appreciate the help.
 
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