Transfer removal

[huskihl]

So far I haven't had to use a brake hone or anything else,

Dowel, Emery cloth, scotch brite has worked every time

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Carb cleaner to get rid of the oil, I use muriatic acid first to get rid of the bulk, and then a split mandrel with 80 grit. Then scotchbrite to shine it up

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The "Wiggs Hone"...

Piece o' brake line as a dowel for whatever type of paper and an eye bolt as a holder/stuffer for the Scotch-Brite. I buy the rolls of welder's paper and wrap the inner end through a double slit in the brake line. Just trim the working end back as it wears out or loads up. Chuck em up in a 3/8's drill. Nothing fancy. Very effective.

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[TheWhiteLotus]

Question when attaching the sand paper strip to the dowel....do you wind it up tightly like the picture directly above this comment or do you let it loose like this one? Do you do the same with the scotchbrite? Thanks a bunch!

 

[cuinrearview]

Question when attaching the sand paper strip to the dowel....do you wind it up tightly like the picture directly above this comment or do you let it loose like this one? Do you do the same with the scotchbrite? Thanks a bunch!
View attachment 804394

Wind tight

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yes. The paper will tend to wrap itself around whatever type of dowel with enough pressure applied against the cylinder wall anyway..., which is basically what you want. If you want a flap wheel effect, use a dowel with a slit and a shorter piece of paper. A long slit for use with larger pieces of aggressive grit paper is a good way to stay out of the transfers and off the bevels while removing larger amounts of material quickly. Gives a more uniform result that is easier to finish off as well. Smaller setups will obviously work better for smaller areas. Experiment with what you have on hand. Hell, you can get a 4' piece o' 1/4" ~ 5/16" brake line for a buck or two. I find it much sturdier and versatile than wood for my purposes. You can also secure your paper by cutting a slit on only one side in order to insert a tight fold inside the tubing to keep it from flying off.

As for the Scotch-Brite / eye bolt method, you can use anything through the eye bolt as a stuffer to wrap a piece of Scotch-Brite around. A rag with a knot in it will work. I just use another Scotch-Bright pad that also works by itself on small cylinders. You obviously want maximum contact with the cylinder and minimal slippage of the Scotch-Brite and will need to adjust amounts of material according to the size of the cylinder.

If you must use a hone, (or just want to for whatever reason), aluminum oxide is recommended over silicon carbide for NiSi applications. Honing after an aluminum transfer removal process is typically not necessary and can easily ruin what is otherwise a perfectly good cylinder restoration. While it can re-establish a nice pretty cross-hatch that is essentially achieved by removing perfectly good plating, it can also cut through the plating. You need a very good reason and some experience to hone a plated cylinder. Never use a hone simply for transfer removal as it will usually ruin an otherwise perfectly good hone (and the cylinder) as you learn a very valuable lesson the hard way.

Good thread, C.U.

 

[TheWhiteLotus]

Thanks guys, no need for a hone here. I have some 220 and 500grit sandpaper and was going to use the drill/dowel method. Just wanted to make sure i wasnt do it incorrectly. Its a cylinder from a stihl 441magnum and it will be my first one cleaning up so I always like to ask beforehand. Ill give it a whirl and see how it turns out!

 

[cuinrearview]

Start slow with light pressure

 

[Jasonrkba]

I always start off with all kinds of ideas and end up with sand paper and wd40 by hand.(as much as my arthritis allows)

 

[Czed]

I use the white plastic bic pen sleeve
Cut a slit in the end
And use Emory cloth
It'll last a long time.
Done probably 80-100 cylinders this way.