Tuning questions

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Welderman85

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Two quick questions. I was trying to tune and cut today. It was pretty cold so i did the best i could. Both are strato saws. One ran and idled good. But during the cut on something big it would burble some is that the high to rich? And on another strato it idled good but when would pick it back up you had to ease back into the gas or it would stall. It would kinda act like a 2 stroke dirt dirt that was just started and tou had tonrev it a few times to clear it out. Ot that the low to rich?
 
What model saws? I am assuming the carbs on them have both high and low adjustable jets. The "burble" might be it "4 stroking" in which case yes it is too rich. probably need to turn the H needle ( the one furthest away from the cylinder) in just a little.. start with 1/8 turns....You do not want it 4 stroking while in the cut. Ideally. you want to adjust it so that it cleans up in the cut, but if you lift up on it, it will start to burble, but then clean up again when put back in the cut... at least that is the way I do it.. that way it gives you the most fuel without being too rich..and fuel helps lube and cool the engine so I like to keep as much as I can moving through it..

As for the idle.. that would be the L jet.. (one closest to the cylinder) if you are having to ease into it to get it too open, it sounds like fuel might be pooling in the crancase and when you open the throttle it is slightly flooding the cylinder.. try leaning it out just a hair and see if that helps..

As the weather gets colder, I had to re tweak my saws the other week when I used them...Generally cold air is denser and thus requires more fuel to compensate for it...but it can also be related to humidity or air pressure which change daily so.....
 
The one that isnt wanting to idle seems lean to me.
Yes the one burbling in the cut is rich chain is also possibly dull
 
Thank you for your fast replys.on the idling one how do i tell if its rich or lean. It a strato poulan i set it at 2 - 1/2 out and its still there
 
If kinda hangs rpm while revving down its lean. To me having to feather the throttle to get it going also indicates lean.

Set it to what ever base line factory settings are. If its slugish reving richn it 1/8 turn if that makes it worse lean it 1/8 turn.

I always error to the rich side before adjusting something leaner. Specially when im New to a saw its Quarks and sounds.

If im cutting for a day I have a screw driver in my pocket. I cut between 3000 and 8000 ft elevation im tweaking my carb often kinda just get to know it. Virtually the same as looking at metal that needs welding turn the machine on tweak the settings and burn it.

With enough practice it just kinda happens through patience practice trial and error. That and its never good enough. Dont ever be satisfied with good enough.
 
It's normal for strato saws to require the H screw to be set at least 2&1/2 turns out. The idle is not affected by the strato design and is adjusted like any other saw, if it bogs when trying to accelerate off idle, it's too lean, back the L screw out a bit and check.
 
Ive found that theres varing degrees of right and wrong.
One guys correctly tuned saw is anothers poorly tuned saw.
 
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