Lots of good oil with good detergents.
Two stroke fuel ratios
- Thread starter Eraser
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Chris1044
ArboristSite Member
Just run 1:1. All the cool kids are doing it
IntegrityCarpentry
ArboristSite Operative
I need you to adjust all my carbs lol! What fuel are you using? What oil and mix?
89 or 90 non eth rec fuel from the pump. Amsoil Dominator at 32:1
There is a whole lot of info and opinion in this thread.. Good stuff,,, yet leaves alot of questions in my pea brain.. I'm not a chemist or an engineer.. What is the "correct mix" for me and my equipment, use and storage.?. I try to concentrate on temperature and performance first. First thing on my go to is to read the plug. I have no way of determining the proper oil when standing in a store for a purchase of said two stroke oil.. Does the price mean it's "good oil" ? Or the !@cking sticker on the bottle ?? I dunno.. I do know I tend to use a 32 : 1 ratio even when it's supposed to be thinner and so far I'm not putting holes in pistons or replacing rings and seals. To all who posted with much info, THANK YOU.
Plug reading is not completely useless but close to it. Especially if not done right. IE you must do a plug chop and even then it only tells you your HS tuning.
Using a good FD oil and tuning sharp will net good results.
IntegrityCarpentry
ArboristSite Operative
Ty. Honestly, and just wanting to learn from your experiences, why you use Dominator over Saber? I appreciate your details.
Been running 87 and 50:1 lately. I'm at the point in my life that i don't care if my stuff lives or not. I can buy new stuff tomorrow.
Not much oil experience, other than what I see inside the motors.
Dominator seems to be a little bit cleaner burning and leaves a little bit more oil in the crankcase than Saber. And at the time, it was readily available in the quart jug as opposed to Saber being packaged in smaller quantities. I wanted the quart
What are the Best and the Worst two cycle oils.. Availability is key...
Hell i remember that period !
They sell the Saber in Quarts Kevin , #ATPQT / $ 11.89 USD a quart , Wolfy needed a quart for his Arborist Stihl MS 200 top handles last fall lol.
I'am an Engineer & not a chemist , only way to understand what oil is best for your application is to understand the oils compostion & its application recommendations via the school of hard knocks & a extended trial period . Or , simple approach , is to use only FC or FD Jaso rated oils within air cooled engines & ensure to tune to your application & oil manufacturers recommended ratio for that application . As Ben mentioned , the only time plug readings are moderately accurate is utilizing a plug chop after an extended high temperature run or within a marine application , even better an extended low speed trolling session after the high speed run as a subsequent validation to establish a bench mark or happy medium between both trials
I ran a Homelite 7-19C with I'm thinking a 1/2 pint to the gallon of Quaker State 30 weight in the green can. And, used burnt motor oil for bar oil. Sold a lot of firewood that way back in the early 70's .
I'm not sure what you would have gained by using modern oils. Reason being the starter mechanism and everything else were just unreliable.
I'm not sure what you would have gained by using modern oils. Reason being the starter mechanism and everything else were just unreliable.
Yeah , thats the old School oil 24:1 , 20:1 & 16:1 ratio's , prior to 2 stroke engine oil development . Back in the late 50's & early 60's a quart of Sae. straight 30 4 cycle oil within a gallon of gas was normal . As JR previously mentioned its very effective within mosquitoes & blackfly suppression . However , used motor oil for bar oil usage was never an excepted practice in my neck of the woods brother !
Well then @jellyroll send that cheap Zenoah , technology equipment up North here for brushing shooting lanes @ hunting camp junior !
I've been using up my left over lucas semi syn from my last dirt bike at 32-1 in chinese saws like zenoah 54cc clones and a stihl 066 clone.
With that oil and that ratio you need a good tune and have to work the saw hard to get the oily residue out of the muffler.
I set the 066 clone a little rich for break in and the muffler was drooling oil lol.
With that oil and that ratio you need a good tune and have to work the saw hard to get the oily residue out of the muffler.
I set the 066 clone a little rich for break in and the muffler was drooling oil lol.
Any heavy oil ratio requires a good detergent package & sharper tune to ensure complete combustion to prevent oil residue from accumulating . If you have drool or sponge then your tune , oil or quality of fuel is not adequate for your application !
Yeah , thats the old School oil 24:1 , 20:1 & 16:1 ratio's , prior to 2 stroke engine oil development . Back in the late 50's & early 60's a quart of Sae. straight 30 4 cycle oil within a gallon of gas was normal . As JR previously mentioned its very effective within mosquitoes & blackfly suppression . However , used motor oil for bar oil usage was never an excepted practice in my neck of the woods brother !
I hear you as far as the bar oil, but what else were you going to use? Never saw bar oil for sale. I'm talking about when gas was 30 cents a gallon and they pumped it for you.
Kerosene & transmission fluid was common back then !
Yep , new multi grade oil or way back when fresh or new single grade oils were used , depending on the Region & ambient temps you used your saw Sae. 20 was winter grade & Sae 30 normal summer grade , I doubt anything heavier would be capable of adequate flow for the bar tail & groove eg: Sae.50 perhaps thinned with kerosene when required . I even remember commercial loggers using transmission fluid for bar oil , but never , old dirty burnt used engine oil !
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