Wallenstein BX-62 chipper...clog, clog, clog!

eraforest

eraforest

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OKay, we got a partial afternoon of chipping in, running the tractor up to 2300+ rpm, making the PTO 540 rpm. And not one clog! All just cut branches from 2 good sized Doug Fir trees, and misc. green brush. I have not checked the bed knife yet. I guess you just have to have max rpm to throw the product out the blow pipe. What do you think is easier to chip; fresh green, couple months dry, or full dry material? Thanks for the good advise ArborSiters!
 
Bango Skank

Bango Skank

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Maybe this should go without saying, but can’t hurt to mention it. I think I’ve heard a bad tale about this gone wrong before.

The gap between the knives and anvil isn’t going to be the same for each individual knife. When you set that gap, rotate the disc and find the knife that has the smallest gap, set the gap on the knife that will be closest to the anvil. The other knives might have a bit bigger of a gap, so it goes.
 
Hddnis

Hddnis

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Looks like you have it worked out.

Chippers like RPM's.

Only time our big chippers have ever clogged it's when the autofeed lets it bog too much on leafy material. It's going to be an hour to fix that with the service truck on site, that much HP jams them up real good and fast. Only happened three times in the last five plus years, so not something we really worry about.
 
eraforest

eraforest

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Another day of chipping, different outcome. Ran the tractor pto at 540 + rpm, same material; .green oak stumps sprouts, Doug Fir limbs, Ceonothus (wild lilac/tick bush), and we're back to clog, clog, clog every few minutes. Knives still good, though I'll hand dress before next use. Don't see a bed knife/anvil to adjust, and seems like a lot of twigs pass through too big, and are the cause of the clog at the base of the blow pipe. I will communicate with the mfgr (Wallenstein) next.
 

atpchas

AtA
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There should be an anvil that is adjustable and/or replaceable - it is a part that wears in normal usage. It sounds like that part needs attention.

I know that with our Bearcat chipper with 25HP engine we have to listen for dropping RPMs - below a certain point, the chipped material accumulates faster than it can be blown out and the chipper jams. BTDT, many times.
 

Hddnis

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The knives have to work against something. The bed knife may be part of the housing and not adjustable, I've seen that on homeowner chippers in the really low HP range. Sure seems like a PTO chipper should have an adjustable bed knife. Also it should cut the small stuff too, our chippers cut long pine needles.
 

atpchas

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From the owner's manual:
12. Sharpening Blades:
The rotor and stationary blades need to be sharp for the chipper to perform as expected. It is recommended that the rotor blades be removed from the rotor when sharpening. Always sharpen the blades at a 45° angle to provide the best cutting effect as it meets the stationary blade. Be sure to tighten the blade mounting bolts to their specified torque when re-installing the blades to the rotor.
The stationary blade is designed with 4 sharp corners that can be utilized. When the corner facing the rotor blade rounds over, remove the blade and re-install with a different corner facing the rotor blade. Use the stationary blade to set the clearance to the rotor blade when re-installing. Be sure to tighten mounting bolts to their specified torque.
13. Clearance:
It is recommended that the clearance between the rotor and stationary blades be set and maintained at 1/32 to 1/16 inch to obtain the best performance. Use the stationary blade mounting bolts to set the clearance as required.
 
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