which is where most of my laughter is directed. lube is lube.... anything you get from used motor oil is no worse than the grit you normally pick up from cutting wood. I personally use my used motor oil for a space heater that is designed and built it (By me) but anything else is game, you can adjust for it hence the adjustable oiler..
i took an O2 cylinder and cut the top off to match a 5" chimney pipe, put legs on it to keep it stable a hole in the bottom where a smaller blower and a stainless steel grid sits. it drips via a tank through a valve to adjust drip speed. start the drip, light off with a cup kerosene or diesel and turn on blower at low speed after about 5 minutes the stainless grid is hot enough that the oil vaporizes when it hits it... about 10 minutes after that the oil vaporizes about half way down the cylinder and I open the fan control all the way. by about the 40 min mark the entire top half of the cylinder is glowing red hot. this is for in the shop only in the largest open space. the first 5 minutes of burning are dirty but by the time it hits full speed it burns with no visible smoke...just a metric **** ton of heat.
Thinking of running that in my Subaru, since it does not seem to make a difference.
Bar oil isn't a known carcinogen and you most certainly are breathing whatever you lube your chain with.
What about all that 2 stroke oil you are breathing? The amount of bar oil that vaporizes enough to be able to breath it is almost nil if any at all.
The bar oil is being thrown away from the operator
It doesn't have to vaporize and in fact isn't vaporized. It's aerosolised and in higher quantity than what two cycle oil comes out the exhaust. Two cycle oil is also much more benign than motor oil.
You really think that? Every notice that build up on your cylinder fins, pants/chaps, etc.
If you will do what I do you can use waste oil.. I fill a clean empty gallon jug with waste oil and sit it in the barn.. I have plenty of that from the farm. So there may be several jugs of oil sitting.. The one that's the oldest is then poured into another clean gallon jug,, BY then the dirt and sludge has settled in the bottom of the FIRST jug.. SO pour slowly and let the sludge stay in the old JUG..NOW.. divide that oil into two jugs and add STP.. The heavy syrup..It's cheap..under or around 3 bucks..NOW,, get another gallon of old settled oil and finish filling these TWO gallons almost full.. NOT quiet full..Shake them well..Watch your chain..Let the saw run half throttle shut it off and check the bottom links..IF it's not moving fast enough enough for you.. Thin just a TINY bit with Transmission fluid..I made a Viscosity guage and I get mine just right.. I never buy (unless in that rare event where I must) bar oil..In fact the good oil out of my equipment is slicker and seems better than the cheap bar oil..Check your viscosity.. Bend a heavy wire into half a loop..Leave a gap.. Dip it and hold it level.. My oil sets in the crack when it's right..Good luck..
Lighten up Francis...
not sure how the old guys survived and are still alive after lead paint lead in gas and asbestos. And eating eating broccoli once a week for 50 years
