weak chipper feed motor? Altec/woodchuck WC17

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Greenclimber

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I don't know if it is the motors, or if there is something else happening. Sometime it will take big branches. Sometimes it will take small branches. It likes very straight branches the best.

Sometimes it will just stop and the wheels won't turn unless I push the forward and reverse bar, and then it will just keep stopping in the same place... like it doesn't like that part of the branch for some reason...

Sometimes it won't take little things. Like stupid small little things that it should take just fine. Like 3-5", and maybe a little funny shaped. Not 100% straight. Maybe a little bit of wiggle in them.. They will go in, but then get stuck and wheels will spin on the branch for a while.

Sometimes it will take large pieces if I first cut them at 45 degree. Like 10" or 11" no problem.

Sometimes the little stuff will go in, and then the feed rollers won't go up any higher... Like it just doesn't open past 5" sometimes.. (guesstimate)

It's all spring loaded, no hydro crush cylinder.
Springs aren't supper super tight, or super super loose. Once they were very very tight and little things would get stuck and big things would not go in very will without 45 degree cut.

I figured looser springs are better for big stuff so I made them looser. However, they the still won't open past 5" sometimes...

Other times if the branch is "just right, it will go in and swallow it no problem. (like starts at 2" and gets big up to 9"


Questions: What am I doing wrong? Is there a main control valve that I can adjust which will increase pressure overall throughout the system? Is it maybe time for an hydraulic oil change? Is it something else?
 
Is there a bottom feed wheel door on the bottom of the chipper? If so, the door needs to remain open while chipping. Debris can build up if the door isn't open and it can cause the feed roller to stop turning. It might be time to do a hydraulic pressure test. Are there any other features that are hydraulic on the chipper and are those features acting up as well? Could be the sign of a bad hydraulic pump. Is the hydraulic pump running off the engine or is it run by a belt? If it's belt driven, you may want to check the tension of the belt as well.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-420-6400
 
I would check the control valve first. You have varying symptoms and the valve is the most variable component.
Yours should have a steal plate that limits the stroke of the valve. Try adjusting that. If its not there then you may have beaten the valve to death.
If the valve is good then you want to start testing the pressure.
 
Hi thanks for the replies! The metal door is rusted away. Everything spills out and gets on the ground. It's always been like that.

The pump is powered off of a belt, not the engine.

I am not sure about the control valve. I don't know where that is located. Can you assist me? I think it would be a great idea to test the pressure. Just not sure how to go about that. Maybe it's best to take it to a shop?
 
If you don't know what a control valve is then it's probably best to take it to someone who does.
Its the thing that controls the flow of hydraulic fluid to the feed motors.
 
I know what it is. I don't know "where" it is.

There are two main hubs where the hydraulic hoses connect. One just has the hoses, the other one has an area where it looks like I can turn a bolt. I could probably put a socket on it and give it a turn. Just don't know what direction to turn. Also don't know if that controls pressure or it that is an area for another hose to connect.
 
That's the safety control valve. Its just on and off. You want the other one.
That cylinder is not the pressure release valve. There should be a big plug on the side that you unscrew with an
adjuster bolt in there.
IMG_6074.jpg
 
Awesome thanks! Now the question is what PSI should my system operate at? I won't have any way to test it with out a gauge. I think what I can try doing is just turning it a 1/4 turn at a time until I start to notice a difference.
 
Check it out! So I noticed that my forward and reverse valve wasn't opening and closing all the way because there was a limiting screws on them. In your picture with the red chipper your's isn't hooked up at all. This might not have been a problem if the original factory link was still installed. However, my 4th or maybe even 5th hand chipper has had all kinds of interesting "fabrications" that I've had to deal with and mine was held in place with wire.

Anyway, I adjusted the screws to where the forward and reverse are almost all the way out, and I tightened the little piece of wire that was holding everything together. There was about 3/4 inch of play in the wire. I feel like that should make a big difference..

I have also turned the pressure regulator screw in about 1-3/4 turns over the last 2 days of use and I have noticed a difference with that already.. Not sure how the chipper will respond now that the valve is opening and closing all the way. Before it was only opening about 60% Now it is closer to 95%. (there is still a little bit of play in the wire, and I can't turn the screw out any more)
IMG_3896.JPG
 
I know this is an old post, but I'm having the same problem. How would I go about doing a pressure test on the hydraulics? Thanks.
 
You will need a gauge for hydro pressure about 3000 -500psi. A "T" pipe fixture Hydraulic type not plumbers pipe and connectors/ couplers to splice into any line at a coupling point. Water/ moisture in hydraulic fluid will cause all kinds of problems so if it hasn't been changed in a long time that needs to be done as well as changing any filters. Slipping belts usually squeal but considering the noise might not hear it.
 
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