What’s the smoothest cut you’ve made with your CSM?

[TheLaundryMan]

I had a short section of a cut turn out really really smooth and was wondering if it’s an attainable goal of every cut or if was just glitch in the matrix? First photo is the smooth part, second photo is more average cuts for me
Post photos. Brag on yourself. Let’s see it

 

[Husky Man]

Something that can help, is pick an angle that is comfortable for You, and stick with it.

I am referring to nose versus powerhead end “Leading “, many if not most will “Lead” with the nose end of the mill,rather than the mill being exactly perpendicular to the long axis of the log being milled.

Find that position that is comfortable for you and hold it the best that you can, “Seasawing” the nose and powerhead back and forth, can cause marks and an inferior milled surface. Stay as consistent as you can, and you should get better results

Doug

 

[TheLaundryMan]

Yeah I know not to seesaw. I sometimes successfully avoid it but I kept having my guide on the powerhead side get hung up on the log. Need to figure out how to mount some rollers on there

 

[BobL]

This is typical finish


Same log/mill/saw/chain
LHS is first cut,
Second cut I just took it a bit slower - also cut was a bit wider. This is hard wood (Lemon Scented Gum)


This is also taking it a bit slower. (Forget the decapitated beetle)

 

[Husky Man]

Yeah I know not to seesaw. I sometimes successfully avoid it but I kept having my guide on the powerhead side get hung up on the log. Need to figure out how to mount some rollers on there

I believe that Bob L has custom made some, and Granberg offers some as add ons, to fit their mills

Doug

 

[Mad Professor]

I don't have many good pictures but smoother than most band mills. I'll get some pictures of some cherry time permiting, here is some ash.

I'm still using the pricey Stihl 63PMX/lo pro milling chain.View attachment scb Sh M+T copy.jpg

Layout marks are traditional TF using a compass/chalkline. All joinery done without a ruler/tape/square. But it's squarer and fit is perfect.

 

[TheLaundryMan]

Doug, thanks I didn’t realize grabbing offered some. Might buy em or steal their design depending on price

mad professor, those are clean joints! And the boards are very smooth for chainsaw milling. I didn’t know stihl even made a milling chain
Bob, whenever I took the rakers way down I then killed some Texas cedar (very soft) and those cuts were ROUGH because the wood was so soft and the chain was pulling itself through so it just flew through the wood. Looked a lot better on the hard woods there. log in picture is a wateroak

 

[Mad Professor]

Doug, thanks I didn’t realize grabbing offered some. Might buy em or steal their design depending on price

mad professor, those are clean joints! And the boards are very smooth for chainsaw milling. I didn’t know stihl even made a milling chain
Bob, whenever I took the rakers way down I then killed some Texas cedar (very soft) and those cuts were ROUGH because the wood was so soft and the chain was pulling itself through so it just flew through the wood. Looked a lot better on the hard woods there. log in picture is a wateroak

Logosol has a monopoly on importing the 63PMX chain (3/8 picco) and they price it like platinum, like ~$40 a loop for 16-20" bars. Before Left Coast Supplies went out of business they had some at a great price, I should have bought a bunch. You can't get the 63 PMX chain from a Stihl dealer either.

The other issue is getting 3003 mount bars in 3/8 picco/lo pro. Stihl made them but they are hard to find. Left Coast had great deals on 3003 mount picco/lo pro GB bars. I got some 25" ones for $22, and they are great quality bars.

Stihl also makes a 33RMX milling chain (3/8 , 0.050 gauge) , but they do not import it here to USA. I'd like to give that a try .

 

[J D]

Asides from the spider that's a fairly typical finish for me