What parts should I stock up for a 395xp?

[Hylourgos]

After owning only Stihl products since the mid-1990s, I decided to make a switch and recently purchased a Husky 395 XP, for cutting some of the big logs on my property, and occasional milling projects (mostly freehand). I have an older 066 magnum that served me well, but it was an older unit so when I decided on a newer saw I also gave into curiosity to try Husqvarna.

I’m really happy with the new saw so far. There is for me an ergonomic improvement. The exact power differences are hard to describe. My 066 seemed to have more brute power but with the 395 I seem more able to manage the power better (more torque? …or maybe just the ergonomics again).

The point of my post: what parts should I hoard for the 395 XP? I got a pretty good deal locally, (about 1.5K for the saw, two bars [28/36], and four chains). But this past week I had to shell out almost $50 just for a new chain adjusting screw assembly. I’ve already been online to find and order spares of that for under $10. So aside from that and air filters, what do you 395 owners consider “consumables,” parts that you typically run through and have to replace, ones that are advantageous to stock up on to avoid having to play pay inflated prices when you need the part quickly?

Thanks, H

 

[Aknutter]

Hopefully you paid 1.5 k not 15k..

 

[Hylourgos]

Ha! Yes good catch. Otherwise I could not have complained about a $50 screw!

 

[motolife313]

My saws have been pretty reliable for me. Just buy parts as you need is what I’d do

 

[Hylourgos]

My saws have been pretty reliable for me. Just buy parts as you need is what I’d do

Being reliable is great to hear. But you don’t even replace air filters regularly?

 

[motolife313]

No. Blow them out once every blue moon. Need to get a little grease gun tho to grease the bearing behind the clutch that you grease through the end of the crank shaft Infront of the sprocket

 

[rmh3481]

Crank Bearings and Seals. Carb Kits and a few feet of Fuel Line. A couple of spare Mount Springs. Spare ignition module. Extra screws. An extra bar and a roll of chain w/presets and tie straps so you can make your own chain. Madsen's still sells the smaller rolls of chain if you dont want a whole 100ft roll. Rim drives, and Filters.

 

[BobL]

I realize this is not your question but want to comment on the fact that really good milling ergonomics doesn't usually have much to do with the saw but more to do with the mill. This comes about because Im old, fat and lazy so have studied this in a fair bit of detail

I reckon the most useful ergonomic improvement wrt chainsaw milling is a remote throttle follow by more/better/higher handles on the mill. This mean the operator can operate the mill standing up instead of crouching over with arms ware apart which kills arms and shoulders. This means instead of applying pressure with arms the operator can apply forward pressure on the saws wrap handle with their knee/thigh/hip.

A throttle lock can allow arms to be free so if the log is on a slope the mill can keep cutting while inserting wedges etc.


Here you can see useful handle locations
A is a (Motor cycle) throttle.
B is a mountain bike hand grip on an upturned handlebar stem.



One thing that is worth improving on all saws with forward facing exhausts ithat bounce of the log up into the operator's face is re-reouting the exhaust to blow away from the operator.

 

[LuDookie]

Composite oiler gear. They are cheap. Get a handful. May last 10 years, May last one. Clutch drum bearing, rim sprockets… maybe a muffler. Other than that, 395’s are great saws.