What's the Dope on 372 52mm setups??

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You're mighty insecure for such an accomplished technician.
You would do well to listen for a change , ya just might learn something ! Then again as the smartest man in the universe you know everything already ! Seems like a reoccurring pattern of thought almost akin to a broken record with you sir ...... if someone or something does not agree with YOUR agenda then it’s either garbage or simply cannot be done !
 
You would do well to listen for a change , ya just might learn something ! Then again as the smartest man in the universe you know everything already ! Seems like a reoccurring pattern of thought almost akin to a broken record with you sir ...... if someone or something does not agree with YOUR agenda then it’s either garbage or simply cannot be done !

You made my day Frank. I'm new here and mentioned in one of my posts that I think you are the only one who has worked out how to build a good saw. I had know idea of the politics behind it. Any wonder I made no friends here. Your 346 inspired me to build mine. I think it would keep you honest too. lol.

Thanks for the good laugh. I enjoyed that a lot.
 
You made my day Frank. I'm new here and mentioned in one of my posts that I think you are the only one who has worked out how to build a good saw. I had know idea of the politics behind it. Any wonder I made no friends here. Your 346 inspired me to build mine. I think it would keep you honest too. lol.

Thanks for the good laugh. I enjoyed that a lot.
Frank is a MS241, 261 & 362 specialist, a 346 is not his type of gig but I'm sure with his talents he could make a special exception just for you.
 


i'll keep trying, maybe i'll figure it out someday

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Good... Now we are getting somewhere...

All of you that are too far in the dark to understand some very important concepts being brought to light about tuning specific differences in piped and mufflered engines.... Don't need to bother reading anything I take the time to share.... It's a waste of your time , and mine...

It's also funny to have so many experts that aren't saying anything about pipe/ muffler styles and exhaust or transfer duration... Likewise crankcase compression and velocity driven case charging... And boundary layer port friction...

But... I'm going to ignore the guys who drive around with the rubber testicles hanging off their trailer hitches... And still bring up topics and tuning physics for the one or two that desire to learn and share...

Even though a work saw isn't going to have a real pipe on it.... There is still a lot of wave tuning that can be taken advantage of... There is an excellent reference book ... The exact name escapes me... But I believe it's : "The scientific design of intake and exhaust systems"

Recommended reading... None of it deals with 2 stroke pipe design... And that's just fine for a work saw... The wave tuning is applicable to a non piped 2 stroke...

And to be fair guys.... I came in just to start up some conversation and find guys who like using saws too... and have a bit of fun modding my saws.... Plus I was hoping it would be a quick way to find out the components that interchange for performance... And the junk aftermarket parts to avoid...

The references to partially informed newbs ... The insolence of bothering the saw elite... The condesention was started by site members.... Not me...

I have over 40 years of performance building under my belt... I don't have to take snotty ass condesention attitudes and be quiet about it... And I won't....

Im not looking to steal secrets or souls... Or take any porting work away from anyone... And I don't want porting specs either... That's the fun for me... Unlocking the puzzle of what I want an engine to be... Just looking to avoid mistakes on junk components...

Here's the game....

An engine is a single dynamic and harmonic system... There is not one big secret ... There are tons of little nuances... You could have a pro football team on one side of the tug of war contest... All superstars in their own right... But they will lose if they aren't all pulling AT THE SAME TIME...while the cheerleaders pulling against them are... That's the game...
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This just keeps getting better and better.


Not sure whose 346 you talking about, but it sure wasn't Frank's

Yep got my wires crossed. But still funny as all hell watching the pissing contest unfold. I was wrong about this site it's hellisly entertaining. Does this happen often? Cause I might stick around.
 
Invasion? Or manufactured crisis?

Possibly. I came to give my experience with AM cylinders and found all this junk.

Hopefully I can get the thread back on track.

NWP, HyWay and Meteor cylinders all come from the same factory and same molds. I've had all 3 side by side and the casting marks are almost identical. The only thing different is NWP paints them black, they come with different or coated pistons and different rings.

All have plating flaking problems, so you have to be careful on the transfer ports not to lift the plating when grinding on them. The 372BB and 395BB kits are better than most other HyWay cylinders about flaking, the worst in my experience has been the 359 kit with closed transfer (357 design with 359 bore). I've had 2 flake plating off the top of the exhaust port and kill the cylinder, both were really easy to flake while porting. Really the plating is super hard but not adhered well to the casting.

I've also experienced that the aftermarket cylinders have a tendency to warp if you get them extremely hot (like when welding on them). The bottom of the bore always collapses and you loose 0.002-.003" of piston to cylinder clearance on the skirt extensions... which actually makes the bottom 1/2-3/4" of the cylinder a slight interference fit.
 
Yep got my wires crossed. But still funny as all hell watching the pissing contest unfold. I was wrong about this site it's hellisly entertaining. Does this happen often? Cause I might stick around.
You simply pull the string and they do their thing !
 
Yeah i know, old thread.

Statement by Mixer -

“So... Why wouldn't you want to take that uncertainty and all negative Muffler .... And do what you can to take it to LESS negative effect?!

Now you have a chance at using less exhaust port timing to the same amount of desired increased amount of exhaust flow.... It will also mean you could use less blowdown and more transfer port timing for stronger mid range torque....”

Absolutely. I run 158* exhaust, raise the transfers and that less blowdown = torque.

Fordhook said-

”It's 180 and I have never ground through the top at 176 on a Meteor or That other Chiness crap on the 372 after decking them. Obviously you grind that high too. Yet advise everyone else 160. Why? You know 180 hauls arss. Every guy I have ever spoken to in person uses 180 as a bench mark. It is easily keeping up with anything else I saw on YT. I'd never run 160 it would be a dog. I'm seriously considering going to 184 on the 372.”

”. I've got the screaming saw I wanted now I want the SAME saw to generate torque”

Any wonder you are looking for torque!

I have always found it amusing that people add 10-20* to a work saw thinking it is necessary.

I have had a good run with the NWP 52mm barrels. I have two saws running these ported for years doing hard work in hardwood. Cant fault them.

Then there was the comment about the lower transfers not needing work. Use a base gasket as a template and you will see this is just not the case. So much work to be done here.

Id like to see some of these saws rocked in the cut. Quite often you can see if the saw has torque or not.

Amazing the arguments that ensue.
 
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