Most woods can spare a 5" diameter low grade tree. Oh...and he's logging the woods. Some of those are going to get smashed by a falling tree anyhow. I haven't asked, but he's pretty good about taking care of the woods, so he probably picks trees that are coming out anyhow.
Understand he is thoughtful about using the technique. Just wanted to mention for all the others reading to make sure they consider it.Most woods can spare a 5" diameter low grade tree. Oh...and he's logging the woods. Some of those are going to get smashed by a falling tree anyhow. I haven't asked, but he's pretty good about taking care of the woods, so he probably picks trees that are coming out anyhow.
But yeah, I wouldn't do that in a residential yard to a tree being maintained!
Philbert I am sure sure you could set up a 12 volt chain grinder but do not know how big that market would be. Why now design a system where as the chain could still be on the saw but get sharpened. Just thought. Thanks
Tecomec and Oregon used to sell a 4” diameter, 12V chain grinder that clamped onto the guide bar, similar to how a Granberg file guide does. I think it was popular with guys that do chainsaw milling, because they don’t like to take their rig apart to sharpen.
I mentioned something similar above. I sometimes bore cut into a stump, or into a large round, to hold the saw by the guide bar when filing.
I would say for those who want to get their chains sharp in the field that would be win win. A reality for me is when I am cutting for more than a casual afternoon there is not a chance for any house hold current. Thanks
Agreed. I learned to sharpen without a vice, and now its awkward to work with a vice where my arms usually sit on the tailgate of the truck. Everybody has their right way to sharpen. I prefer a freehand file, and that has come from a lot of buggered up chains and learning the hard way.
The gullet helps hold the file at the proper height to set the side plate angle/the hook. If you remove the gullet first on a newer chin then you will have to constantly hold the file up against the top plate.
I like them a lot, and I use them on chains that I get that someone thought getting the gullet hogged out was going to make their saw cut faster, it holds the file up onto the cutter nicely.I’m a dummy and the Husky roller guides work best for me.
This chain has cut 68 cords (real cords) of blocks so far. My goal is to hit 75 before I retire it.
Hand filed with the Husky roller guide every one or two tanks fuel and once on the grinder to even out the teeth. (I tend to shorten left teeth more than rights)
Still cuts straight and fast.
Seriously, as long as the file is aligned and rolled straight without wobbling, even a dummy like me can’t mess it up.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That's great you had someone to stand beside and learn.
.It's funny when you watch a video on how to use the roller guide and then when it comes time to do the rakers they set it aside
. What they don't realize is how well they work for setting them to the proper height. The stand alone version is a much easier tool to hold and they last much longer though.
What is a "rocked" chain, exactally?
Yeah, wanted to see if Steve defined it that way. I'm going to suggest if you are needing to carry 4 chains to get through the day you should look at your cutting techniques...
Maybe, when I cut hazard trees in yards with targets I usually have two saws, the one I'm running and another with a sharp chain and ready to go in case I hit something. There have been many times when cutting in general that I've damaged two new chains in the same wood(different locations not the same cut) as all I had was new chains
. But the show must go on and filing a chain that hits metal isn't much fun, and I enjoy filing.Hit / touched a rock / gravel
Depends on what you are cutting. I do disaster clean up, and tree debris is mixed with EVERYTHING.
True, but I have worked with a lot of guys that consider hitting dirt "inevitable", and that just isn't so. So many times just poor technique and laziness.
