Whats the easiest to learn chain sharpener

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I thought I was great at hand filing chains. Awhile back I sharpened a chain couple of times on a new to me saw/chain of my own that was cutting good and I hit a rock, grabbed a file and sharpened it twice. (no go)
It would not cut correctly. I put up the saw for later and grabbed another so as to get er dun.
I later dug out my old old grandberg that was stored way back under the workbench. When I set it up I then noticed I was using the wrong size file when hand filing. I have several different size chains in use and several different saws. I started taking a marks a lot permanent marker pen and write the file size on the saw.
If I had checked the chain pitch first I would have used the correct size file.
My old manual clamp on the bar granberg, I thjink is a G106B.
I also like to clamp the chainsaw itself solid in a vise for more user friendly hand filing but can do without a vise.

I also keep one of these Oregon gauges handy to help verify chainsaw chain specs, such as pitch, file size and more.

OREGON Chainsaw (Chain Saw) Bar & Chain Pitch, Gauge, File Measuring Tool 556418
 
I thought I was great at hand filing chains. Awhile back I sharpened a chain couple of times on a new to me saw/chain of my own that was cutting good and I hit a rock, grabbed a file and sharpened it twice. (no go)
It would not cut correctly. I put up the saw for later and grabbed another so as to get er dun.
I later dug out my old old grandberg that was stored way back under the workbench. When I set it up I then noticed I was using the wrong size file when hand filing. I have several different size chains in use and several different saws. I started taking a marks a lot permanent marker pen and write the file size on the saw.
If I had checked the chain pitch first I would have used the correct size file.
My old manual clamp on the bar granberg, I thjink is a G106B.
I also like to clamp the chainsaw itself solid in a vise for more user friendly hand filing but can do without a vise.

I also keep one of these Oregon gauges handy to help verify chainsaw chain specs, such as pitch, file size and more.

OREGON Chainsaw (Chain Saw) Bar & Chain Pitch, Gauge, File Measuring Tool 556418
I've done that on all of my saws. On the clutch cover, I wrote the chain pitch, rim pin count, and spline size. I did this so that if I grab a replacement part from my tool box, I know which part to grab before I take the saw apart. I've never used the wrong size file, but that's not because I'm smart. It's because I only run 3 lengths of bars and each bar length runs a specific pitch.
 
*Edit: this was in response to a post that seems to have disappeared, asking for a single method for sharpening all types and sizes of Pro chain. *

‘Lots of ways to sharpen; everyone needs to find something that works for them.’ - Philbert

Different chains require different files, stones, or grinder wheels. So even hand filing requires a few, different things.

Some popular file guides (Oregon, STIHL/Pferd 2in1, Husqvarna Roller Guide, etc.) have different models for different pitch chains. So you would need a ‘set’ of these to sharpen all popular sizes of chain.

The Granberg ’File—N-Guide’ style filing jigs will adjust to almost any pitch, gauge, or angle. You will still need different size files.

A good grinder (e.g. Oregon 520 style) has the adjustment (and power) to shape, sharpen, and repair all sizes and pitches of chain with a few different wheels.

Philbert

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
 
I thought I was great at hand filing chains. Awhile back I sharpened a chain couple of times on a new to me saw/chain of my own that was cutting good and I hit a rock, grabbed a file and sharpened it twice. (no go)
It would not cut correctly. I put up the saw for later and grabbed another so as to get er dun.
I later dug out my old old grandberg that was stored way back under the workbench. When I set it up I then noticed I was using the wrong size file when hand filing. I have several different size chains in use and several different saws. I started taking a marks a lot permanent marker pen and write the file size on the saw.
If I had checked the chain pitch first I would have used the correct size file.
My old manual clamp on the bar granberg, I thjink is a G106B.
I also like to clamp the chainsaw itself solid in a vise for more user friendly hand filing but can do without a vise.

I also keep one of these Oregon gauges handy to help verify chainsaw chain specs, such as pitch, file size and more.

OREGON Chainsaw (Chain Saw) Bar & Chain Pitch, Gauge, File Measuring Tool 556418
I now have the cheaper CHINESE Amazon imitation of the STIHL2N1, bought for price, and testing, and was not, AT THAT TIME, able to find anything online that looked genuine STIHL. STIHL Info and reviews seemed strongly lacking.. but STRONGLY like it for FIELD SHARPENING; (if I find better/ name brand files, will want an upgrade)...but I have all three sizes for (less than/ little more than) one STIHL? I highly RECOMMEND. Here is one by PFERD: https://www.baileysonline.com/pferd-chain-sharp-filing-guides.html
 
Round file. I prefer one size bigger then recommended, but that’s just me.
Sit down and wear out a couple chains learning how to sharpen them.

file out under the tooth first, take out the gullet, and the file the cutting edge from underneath. Down, back, and up.

Bucking Billy Ray had a good video on YouTube about it.
I always have to but never mention it. Can't justify it, it just seems to work for me. Too many young people bear down in the gullet without realizing what they're actually accomplishing..
 
Handfiling to me is dummy-proof and the cheapest.
Nothing is ‘dummy-proof’. I have seen chains damaged by every type of hand or powered sharpener.

It goes to part #4 of Philbert’s 4-part philosophy of chain sharpening:

‘The most important thing is knowing what you want your cutters to look like when finished.’

If you know that, you can use any method. If you expect the tool/jig/fixture/etc. to do that automatically, you may be disappointed.

Philbert
 
I have tried many files & dremel setups but only make powder or sawdust after sharpening a chain, I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain. All my chains are 3/8 pico or low profile, I have been looking
at Stihl 2in1 sharpener, seems to be easiest to learn. Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
2 in 1 is only good to a point. Eventually you need to learn chain cutters and how to sharpen them in relationship to the wood. There is no easy YouTube fix here. You want instant gratification and it's not going to happen. Buy a grinder and tap tap tap or file your chains until you learn. It's an acquired skill not a magic tool. Eventually people get tired of hearing about the magic bullet you seek. It does not exist learn or pay someone. Pretty simple concept there.
 
I have a few great knives that I am afraid of sharpening. though I can sharpen any type of chain the knife is a whole other beast. I have a couple of "Buck Autos" that I use every day. How and what do you folks do to sharpen your knives?
 
I have a few great knives that I am afraid of sharpening. though I can sharpen any type of chain the knife is a whole other beast. I have a couple of "Buck Autos" that I use every day. How and what do you folks do to sharpen your knives?
Had a local, professional, knife sharpener ruin one of my good kitchen knives (they replaced it). Told me to use a water stone.

Philbert
 
I have a few great knives that I am afraid of sharpening. though I can sharpen any type of chain the knife is a whole other beast. I have a couple of "Buck Autos" that I use every day. How and what do you folks do to sharpen your knives?
Like my fire starters, I have five different ways to sharp my edged weapon/tools.
Wet stone- Aluminum Oxide, file, diamond stone, pull sharpener, Carbide coarse, Ceramic- fine.
What & when is all about which tool needs sharpening.
 
Put saw in shop vise
get correct file size, not a worn out file or incorrect size (the oregon file sizing card helps a lot!)
put the file on a file holder/handle
align your file with the witness marks showing correct angle
file
go through after with raker gauge and flat file
I've found it's not very complicated, though there is plenty of room for doubt. trust the file and your eyes
if it cuts well then good job, if not then try again.
the 2 in 1 works as does the husqvarna roller guide. Though you need a rig for each pitch.
 

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