When good- goes Bad..... 066 style.

[Yotaismygame]

Didn't even read the second page but just so you guys know you can block members you don't care for. They can't see any post's you make or any threads you start.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Didn't even read the second page but just so you guys know you can block members you don't care for. They can't see any post's you make or any threads you start.

Way I see it, it is an open forum and you can choose to ignore or engage.
Guess some just wake up and drop the clutch before engaging the brain.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

A buddy runs a 36 inch, 3/8 x .063 setup on his 066, yours should handle it fine I'd think. Also, I've seen a guy run a 36 on a 461 full-time, as well as a 42 on a 660 and both oiled their bars well, so I'd run it and see.

I think 36" is the max recommended in the specs- so in theory the standard oiler should be okay.
Like you say, bolt her up and run it will give me the answer. Might have to buy a roll of .404 skip- not big on .404 chain reserves here.

 

[cuinrearview]

So, seeing as how I have a couple of 3003 mount bars with .404 tips on them, thinking about turning this saw once gone over, into a dedicated .404 saw.
Does the standard oiler have the ability to oil a 36" bar in softwoods?
I am thinking it will be at the limits and would be better with the larger flow pump- might get a Farmertec one, what you reckon Tantrum Tommy?

No 066 experience here, just here because the douchies invited me.

Didn't even read the second page but just so you guys know you can block members you don't care for. They can't see any post's you make or any threads you start.

Best answer

Way I see it, it is an open forum and you can choose to ignore or engage.
Guess some just wake up and drop the clutch before engaging the brain.

Wait......what???

 

[RED-85-Z51]

So, seeing as how I have a couple of 3003 mount bars with .404 tips on them, thinking about turning this saw once gone over, into a dedicated .404 saw.
Does the standard oiler have the ability to oil a 36" bar in softwoods?
I am thinking it will be at the limits and would be better with the larger flow pump- might get a Farmertec one, what you reckon Tantrum Tommy?

My 660 clone oils a 36" bar fine, i have a hi cap oiler for it but as it sits its enough.

Not relevant to an 066 but...

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

My 660 clone oils a 36" bar fine, i have a hi cap oiler for it but as it sits its enough.

Not relevant to an 066 but...

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Best I not get too far ahead of myself and check the oil pump fitted actually pumps oil!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Two of my 066`s run a 32 and a 36 in .404 full comp chisel , the saws oil the bar fine even cutting old dry oak which is the worst wood for getting enough oil for lube to the chain as it produces very dry chips with some dust no matter how a chain is sharpened. If an oil pump can keep up with cutting that stuff it can oil for any type of wood on this side of the pond.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Two of my 066`s run a 32 and a 36 in .404 full comp chisel , the saws oil the bar fine even cutting old dry oak which is the worst wood for getting enough oil for lube to the chain as it produces very dry chips with some dust no matter how a chain is sharpened. If an oil pump can keep up with cutting that stuff it can oil for any type of wood on this side of the pond.

Thanks for the input, personally I have never bolted any bar longer than a 30" on to the 1122 chassis.
I did establish last night the saw does still have an oil pump and worm drive fitted- but needs clutch springs, two very sad and stretched, one broken.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks for the input, personally I have never bolted any bar longer than a 30" on to the 1122 chassis.
I did establish last night the saw does still have an oil pump and worm drive fitted- but needs clutch springs, two very sad and stretched, one broken.

It does need a good oil pump , I put new ones in when I rebuilt mine, bought them as basket cases that were more or less running saws in need of rebuild. Got them cheap and put a few bucks of new OEM parts on them. Good working saws since that and only get used when trees are over 25" and up. I have only come across one saw that lost polarity on its magnets, it was a Sachs Dolmar 116 that the magnet hit the coil frame/laminations and it hit hard enough the laminations looked like someone hammered upon them many hits. The coil was replaced but the saw would not start again until I determined the magnet was toast, a flywheel replacement corrected that situation.

 

[KarlD]

I run an 066 with a 36” bar and it oils it fine...any bigger and the 084 comes out. I’m interested to see how the 064 runs with a 36” bar...will it keep up with the 066??? I hear the 500i can run a 36” okay but I leave a 25” on this

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

It does need a good oil pump , I put new ones in when I rebuilt mine, bought them as basket cases that were more or less running saws in need of rebuild. Got them cheap and put a few bucks of new OEM parts on them. Good working saws since that and only get used when trees are over 25" and up. I have only come across one saw that lost polarity on its magnets, it was a Sachs Dolmar 116 that the magnet hit the coil frame/laminations and it hit hard enough the laminations looked like someone hammered upon them many hits. The coil was replaced but the saw would not start again until I determined the magnet was toast, a flywheel replacement corrected that situation.

There is every chance this might have indeed happened the same on this saw- there are lamination separations at the magnet area of the flywheel and a mashed coil could have been swapped out with a spare to try to get the saw running after the incident.
The young guy I got it off was full of enthusiasm for all things chainsaw, but considers himself a Husky guy now and prefers the 395 platform. He had the gift of the gab, but was pretty low on practical experience when quizzed. Hardly looked old enough to have run 066's in the field (over here the general rule for forestry saws is no older than 2 years), but was full of splurge about how poor the 066's are compared to the 395- you find these types in all parts of the World!
So yep, this is the whole guise of this thread- unknown history and not the usual culprits.

As someone eluded earlier, the things I find wrong with chainsaws are pretty simplistic- I mean lets face facts here, chainsaws pre mtronic and autotune are pretty simplistic machines. The differences lay in if you can diagnose the problem and fix it yourself, or have to jump on google to ask what might be wrong.
I post some pretty ordinary stuff on here compared to people who know what they are doing- I have never ground a transfer or altered a port, decked a cylinder nor domed a piston, don't own a degree wheel, any branded proprietary tools meant for specialist application- but I do have a micrometer that belonged to my Grandad. I am not a brand snob, nor a trained saw tech- but generally on the basic saws, I can get them going again and not replace things that don't need replaced. I post here to create conversation on a topic that may or may not help others. I was never a great fan of the 1122 family when they were new, but most everyone else here was and there are plenty of them floating around our wee country still.

 

[pioneerguy600]

There is every chance this might have indeed happened the same on this saw- there are lamination separations at the magnet area of the flywheel and a mashed coil could have been swapped out with a spare to try to get the saw running after the incident.
The young guy I got it off was full of enthusiasm for all things chainsaw, but considers himself a Husky guy now and prefers the 395 platform. He had the gift of the gab, but was pretty low on practical experience when quizzed. Hardly looked old enough to have run 066's in the field (over here the general rule for forestry saws is no older than 2 years), but was full of splurge about how poor the 066's are compared to the 395- you find these types in all parts of the World!
So yep, this is the whole guise of this thread- unknown history and not the usual culprits.

As someone eluded earlier, the things I find wrong with chainsaws are pretty simplistic- I mean lets face facts here, chainsaws pre mtronic and autotune are pretty simplistic machines. The differences lay in if you can diagnose the problem and fix it yourself, or have to jump on google to ask what might be wrong.
I post some pretty ordinary stuff on here compared to people who know what they are doing- I have never ground a transfer or altered a port, decked a cylinder nor domed a piston, don't own a degree wheel, any branded proprietary tools meant for specialist application- but I do have a micrometer that belonged to my Grandad. I am not a brand snob, nor a trained saw tech- but generally on the basic saws, I can get them going again and not replace things that don't need replaced. I post here to create conversation on a topic that may or may not help others. I was never a great fan of the 1122 family when they were new, but most everyone else here was and there are plenty of them floating around our wee country still.

You may know I am guilty of most things you mentioned in your post above , porting, altering and modifying chainsaws since the 1960`s hasn`t changed me much, still a simple mechanic that can diagnose mechanical issues in a wide variety of engine and drive trains. I don`t think I will ever see it all.

 

[Woodslasher]

The young guy I got it off was full of enthusiasm for all things chainsaw, but considers himself a Husky guy now and prefers the 395 platform. He had the gift of the gab, but was pretty low on practical experience when quizzed. Hardly looked old enough to have run 066's in the field (over here the general rule for forestry saws is no older than 2 years), but was full of splurge about how poor the 066's are compared to the 395- you find these types in all parts of the World!

My older brother used to be like that, he'd diss Stihl's quality and go on and on about how great Husky was, despite the fact that the most advanced repair he'd done to any saw was swapping a clutch. A neighbor (who'd logged with Stihls for many years) and I would just chuckle listening to him talking the talk, and after running saws extensively he stopped talking up Husky and now he bases his opinions on a saw-by-saw basis. It was both funny and irritating to hear someone with 8-10 hours of trigger time on primarily a 445 Husky talk about how pathetic Stihl was.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

You may know I am guilty of most things you mentioned in your post above , porting, altering and modifying chainsaws since the 1960`s hasn`t changed me much, still a simple mechanic that can diagnose mechanical issues in a wide variety of engine and drive trains. I don`t think I will ever see it all.

Yep, I knew and I also learned you gained your experience in the trade long before the internet showed up and could rapidly advance your "training"!
My hat is off to you and your kind, regardless of age or when you started- you all speak from life experience and practical work, not youtube and private message other peoples ideas bounced back as your own knowledge.

 

[rupedoggy]

On the plus side I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night

 

[drf255]

Back to the original point of the thread, I woulda called BS on bad flywheel magnets till it happened to me on a Stihl MS270/280.

It’s almost always some trauma to the magnets. Not sure if it’s polarity change or what, but they just stop working.

And this flywheel was aluminum.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Back to the original point of the thread, I woulda called BS on bad flywheel magnets till it happened to me on a Stihl MS270/280.

It’s almost always some trauma to the magnets. Not sure if it’s polarity change or what, but they just stop working.

And this flywheel was aluminum.

I think most people would call BS until someone finally figured it out.
If you sift through the shite behind us- I too have seen it on an alloy flywheel, but this is my first experience of it with a poly wheel.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Had an interesting chat last night with the guy that used to be the head Stihl tech at my local service agents back in the 1990's.
He said he could not recall a poly flywheel loosing magnetism during his time working on them- but did recall some of them "shifting timing" . Saw would still start and idle somewhat- but would not rev up. According to him, the saws would display a recognisable behaviour and replacing the flywheel fixed it.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Okay, on further investigation, the case halves on this saw have had a hard past life, several stripped out threads, chipped edges where the conrod has contacted the front and back of the cylinder mounting block and rather severe scuffing from either off centre crank lobe rub, or debris jammed between case and crank lobe. All "fixable", but decided it was easier to swap out the cases and bottom end with a fresh one I had laying about- just needs new seals.

 

[sean donato]

Reversed polarity I have heard of, as well as funny timing on Dolmar 133's making them run backwards!?

First reversing the magnetism will not make them run backwards, second unless you change timing and reverse the pullstart youll still be trying to start it in the normal direction of rotation.