Why I Keep Going BACK To the 70cc - 20inch B&C Concept.

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weimedog

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Kicked this subject to death over the last couple of video's, but this was the "summary" AND to the OCD type left a few things in the video USUALLY trimmed out. ONE of the reasons NOT articulated on the "light & small" concept can be a life saver as most NOT seeing things from above & trying to move out the escape path will move slower with a big saw.

 
I’ve been loving the 500i with a 20” light bar. Recently picked up a 25” light to compliment it. Most will say the 500i is pointless with the 20” bar as an ms400 could pull a 20 just as hard and fast. I’m not an engineer so I don’t know if that’s true. Oh well.
 
I turned 62 this year and although I love to get out the big saws and let them eat, my preference these days are saws in the 50-55 cc range. If you stick with good ones, those that like high RPM's and plenty of power you'll get a LOT of wood cut in a hurry. When you get into bigger logs break out bigger saws. Since most of what I cut here are tops left over from logging operations my smaller saws see the most use and my body thanks me for it!.........
 
With my background being east coast pulpwood with heavy Swedish influence, even a 20 is huge. My go to is 45-55cc, 15 or 16" bar. Love my ported 026, my 133 chassis Huskies and my 254.
Locally here on NW Ontario even though it was cut and skid, there was still heavy European influence in the lumber camps, pretty much the "standard" setup was a 162 chassis Husky with a 16 and an 8 pin, and nostalgia keeps that setup very popular. My dealer doesn't even stock anything bigger than 18".
That said I have a 20 on my 61/272 build currently and I have one for my Stihl's, and it is definitely something I can live with on a bigger saw.
 
The older I get, I’ll take ergonomic over cutting speed any day. 70% of my saws have 28” bars and the rest have 24”. It keeps me upright and not bent over. They go on my 54cc macs, 58-64 cc macs, homelites and Poulan, and even on the pro Mac 700 and SP 80. Sure makes life a lot better to stand. And with a sharp full chisel even a 54 can get through the maple, alder, Doug fir and hemlock just fine.
 
I'm in the 18/20" band camp as well, although I prefer a 60cc saw. The 359 has an 18 and the 562xp has a 20". I'd say about 80% of what I cut has been with a 18 or 20" bar. Have bigger bars for the bigger saws, normally keep one handy, but don't run them all day if I don't need to.
 
Kicked this subject to death over the last couple of video's, but this was the "summary" AND to the OCD type left a few things in the video USUALLY trimmed out. ONE of the reasons NOT articulated on the "light & small" concept can be a life saver as most NOT seeing things from above & trying to move out the escape path will move slower with a big saw.


Nice to put a channel to a forum name. Enjoyed dinner tonight watching your video, so thank you.

I run a 20” es light on my 034 super and love it, even buried in Australian dry dead hardwood it pulls it great.

I know cotontop3 likes a 20” even on his 90cc’s too.

 
My 036s and 038Ms have interchangable 20" 3/8 ES bars. I also use a 25" ES on the 038 for when I get into stuff > 25", or just for reach. I usually bring a 036 and 038M into the woods. The 036 w/20" is a perfect nimble saw. The heavier 038M balances both bars well.

East coast so not much huge trees, but have a 28" ES I use on the 064 and 066

Small stuff 16" 0.325 on either 026 or 028S
 
I watched the video and always a quality perspective!
I don't really have a preference on short or long bars , I let the task at hand detail the equipment.
The only stipulation of bar size I consider is, does the length of the bar allow the least amount of time under any tree I'm felling?
So a 16" or 20" bar can be used for felling quite a large tree with some notching and plunge cutting ,but I always consider TIME a factor for incident equation.
I measure the DBH and consider the cut time under a tree and then chose bar size. Fortunately I have the luxury of inspecting trees for mitigation plans and try to prepare. Mostly I can complete the job with a 20"-24" but when working in parks the DBH can be 60' or over 13' around. It makes me a little uncomfortable hanging around the bottom of a dead tree with limbs bigger than most trees, 3 cuts and go thats what I go for, even if I have to use a 36" to 41"+ bar and its all about time reduction under those limbs.
 
It kinda depends on what you are cutting and where it has grown.
My own personal preference is 60-65cc for 20" 3/8, but I cut mainly softwoods and large growth. Pinus Radiata and Douglas Fir over here are harvested at 25-30 year growth, same species of tree grows different in different parts of the World.
For my stable, 70-75cc usually wear a 24/25 inch 3/8 combo.
 
The cutting speed of the 70 cc saw pulls us back in.


Once we leave the .325” and 3/8” saw chain behind, and go with the 404” chain with the rakers between .045/.050” on the bigger power head the real sawing begins.
 
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