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Will a Stihl FS 130 run a shredder blade?

stantonizm

stantonizm

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
58
Location
West Virginia
I did end up selling the Stihl and picked up the Echo SRM410u.

I also bought a bunch of blades including the champion brush blender, the airecut 300, renegade hybrid, and the Oregon maxi-blade. I'm indecisive and figured they're cheap enough I'll just try them all. I'll follow up once I've tried them out.
 
Franny K

Franny K

xyz
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
3,019
Location
North eastern Ct USA
From what you put as the target vegetation and your location I suspect you will encounter autumn olive or russian olive. It will really only take a season or so and it needs cut out to use some sort of shredding or chopping blade. At least that is what I have discovered.

I could have bought one of Echo SMR410u instead of my second Honda 35cc one. Stihl store fronts/dealerships seem really opinionated when I ask about a brush cutter with a larger tube than is on display. Only fools would spend $900. I got a 20mm bore wood blade at one place for $10 since no one seems to use that size. I had a 34cc Husky that used that before I had to get a new gearbox. Gearbox would have cost half if it was just one size smaller machine.

Better get busy fast if you want to leave some species. The autumn olive and wild rose have leaves first. Cold weather clothing helps lots for this sort of activity.
 
stantonizm

stantonizm

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
58
Location
West Virginia
From what you put as the target vegetation and your location I suspect you will encounter autumn olive or russian olive. It will really only take a season or so and it needs cut out to use some sort of shredding or chopping blade. At least that is what I have discovered.

I could have bought one of Echo SMR410u instead of my second Honda 35cc one. Stihl store fronts/dealerships seem really opinionated when I ask about a brush cutter with a larger tube than is on display. Only fools would spend $900. I got a 20mm bore wood blade at one place for $10 since no one seems to use that size. I had a 34cc Husky that used that before I had to get a new gearbox. Gearbox would have cost half if it was just one size smaller machine.

Better get busy fast if you want to leave some species. The autumn olive and wild rose have leaves first. Cold weather clothing helps lots for this sort of activity.
The place that I’ll be using it most immediately is to clear out a camper site that’s overgrown with saplings, blackberry, and multiflora rose. Honestly I could probably do the job with a machete in a couple hours, I just like power equipment and I like overkill haha. We also have other property with quite a few acres of old unmaintained fields with lots of autumn olive and multiflora rose. Ideally, if we ever get around to clearing them I’m hoping we can get most of it brushhogged, but I’d like to be able to clear out some of it myself if I have to. I figure with the airecut, shredder, and maxi/renegade, I should be set for grass, scrubby stuff, and woody stuff with a quick blade swap. The main reason I got the Echo was I found it for $420 new w/warranty vs. the Stihl which was well used with an unknown history. Despite the weight it does seem to balance and fit me a little better than the Stihl did too.
 
oaksnacorns

oaksnacorns

New Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2021
Messages
2
Location
sutherlin , oregon
My 2 cents on the 12 inch Champion Brush Blender. I am ENTHUSIASTIC about it. It is the only thing I have been using for mowing several acres (yeah I really need to get a mower when my ground is leveled better. I have lots of mole hills and grooves from black mud, and cleared of debris better) of tough grasses, some blackberries, etc. I have used 2 and 3 point flat blades, heavy trimmer line (.158 Oregon Flexiblade in an Oregon Magnum trimmer head), and circular steel blades and carbide tipped circular blades. The Champion is what I use for everything now.
Trimmer line gets hooked on things too often and breaks. The 2 and 3 point flat blades do not cut well unless they are at the proper angle to the material you're cutting. But the Champion blade works well because of the bend on the ends which catch the branches as it spins. I use it first thing when opening up an area. Let's say there's a lot of debris, I will cut the blackberries and tall grass and poison oak/sumac/ ivy, or whatever it is, so I can see what I'm doing to pick and rake up the branches etc. Then finally skim over the area with the Champion blade to mulch and mow what is left.
Or for an area that is heavy in black berries, I'm swinging the Champion blade sideways and up and down, whichever way engages the blackberry growth the best. Coming down on the vertical blackberry stalks, it chops them up and spits them out like a Salad Shooter.
Cruising over a smooth grassy surface that is not too dense, it leaves a close cut.
Where the grass is tall, I may hold the blade at a 40 degree angle or so, to get better mulching action.
The stock guard that came with my trimmer, recently got destroyed when the Champion blade hit a good rock and deflected upward and cut the guard 2/3 through, destroying it. So I cut the rest of it off. But even before that, the guard was not doing an adequate job of protecting me from the Champion blade that extends below the guard- I was still getting chunks hitting my lower leg, thigh, torso, right upper arm, hands. I got some bruises on my legs. And that guard tended to get in the way when I'm maneuvering around things. Now it never really gets clogged with grass- stuff spins free. I made a bracket and hose- clamped it to the shaft, with an arm that extends to the left with some heavy fabric hanging down from it- it catches a lot of stuff coming my direction. It is short enough to not possibly reach the blade. So at present, my protection is goggles under a Husqvarna foresters helmet with mesh, and gloves and heavy shirt. Chainsaw chaps would help the legs.
I started running blades on my 24cc Honda 4 cycle trimmer, but it died with low compression and it would get bogged down with the Champion blade anyhow. I have had the 42.7 cc Echo SRM 410U for 5+ years now, it has been great. Hit rocks and wood too often, but it keeps on ticking. I have to slow down some when mulching heavy grass, but not unreasonably so, considering it's what I can afford.
Sharpen the outside of the Champion blade a few licks with a 4" grinder, including the wings. The outside is sharpened instead of the inside as originally, so when I lightly go against tree bark, it does not cause so much damage. (The newer blades are sharpened on the outside). I don't try to completely grind out the rock dents on the edge- that would take off too much metal- just enough to put a sharp edge.

P1090335.JPG
 
oaksnacorns

oaksnacorns

New Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2021
Messages
2
Location
sutherlin , oregon
One more little thing- If it doesn't need it, like the grass is thin, or I'm cruising over the places with occasional weeds and lots of small debris including rocks, I use low RPM's so the stuff caught by the blade is not flying so hard, and to extend run time and cause less wear on the engine.
 
sawfun

sawfun

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Jan 11, 2014
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3,122
Just be careful when choosing a shredder blade. The lighter thinner profile Windsor worked well on my fs250r. The much wider and heavier Oregon shedder blade was too much for the head and broke it, damaging the tube and bending the solid shaft. For blackberries,the shredder blades beat all of the other types, and by a lot. For everything else, I use string or tri-blades hand sharpened.
 
harwester

harwester

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Joined
May 14, 2021
Messages
13
Location
TX
Just be careful when choosing a shredder blade. The lighter thinner profile Windsor worked well on my fs250r. The much wider and heavier Oregon shedder blade was too much for the head and broke it, damaging the tube and bending the solid shaft. For blackberries,the shredder blades beat all of the other types, and by a lot. For everything else, I use string or tri-blades hand sharpened.
I agree with you. He must be careful.
 
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