Wood stove rope door gasket

[nathan4104]

So I’ve had my stove for 7 years. I grew up burning wood and witnessed my father changing a door gasket maybe once or twice.
Ive replaced the rope on this stove 2-3 times now. The quality must not be the same as years gone by (surprise!)
What brands are folks having luck with?
Locally (Canada, home hardware) we have ‘Imperial’ brand rope door gasket. It’s white. Comes with a little bottle of glue.
This time around the gasket has lasted 3 months. it’s fraying where it was cut and it all smooshed in and not sealing anymore. The door does not adjust at all, (unless you count the home shimming the hinges or latch with washers which should not be required)
This particular one calls for a 3/8 rope.
Its on my Elmira Fireview cook stove, which has been an excellent stove, besides the replacement gasket! Which is likely my fault.....
Are the grey ones (graphite impregnated) any better than the plain white fibreglass ones?

 

[moresnow]

Can you still get the correct oem gasket from your dealer? The one thing that makes sense to buy oem is door/window gasket. For the minimal expense.

 

[merc_man]

The home hardware brand i isnt too bad if you toss the crappy glue and pick up a tube of caulking for the stive gaskets. That glue seems to soak through and make the gasket go hard. But I do find the black stuff fron a stove dealer is way better and not much more money.

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[Gundy]

I spray mine with some wd-40 every few weeks. Seems to help the longevity some.

 

[sean donato]

I use the imperial brand graphite impregnated rope on my hot blast furnace. Its goofy and takes 3/4" and 5/8" last tube of glue I used was rutland gasket cement(at least I think it was rutland brand) I'm on year 2 on this set, got approximately 3 years on the last set. The joint is typically a bugger to get seamed in correctly. I've found a dry run, and making the rope slightly longer then needed to get a squish fit seems to work the best for me. I also do my joint in the rear corner next to the hinge. For some reason it pinches a bit harder back on that side and hasn't given sealing issues since I've started doing it that way.

 

[nathan4104]

Thanks MERC, that’s exactly what I’ve found. I was even careful to not use too much glue.....

does the WD-40 trick work better while it’s hot with a fire going or cold?!

 

[s sidewall]

I've used the rutland graphite gasket without any glue in mine 10 years ago. Haven't used mine for three years but it still is pliable.

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[ChoppyChoppy]

I wouldn't imagine a gasket to wear out quickly.

The one on my Blaze King is the factory one, so 10 years old.

 

[Ash_403]

Also going on 10 years factory/original gasket on my Regency I3100. The gasket is still in pretty good shape, and seals as it should.

I'll try to go factory replacement, when I need to.

 

[nathan4104]

So I called the OEM and got a kit coming, and confirmed it was not the same as the hardware store stuff.
this stuff has gone flakey and hard and obviously does not seal anymore. Light out = air in!!

 

[FlyingDutchman]

If your gasket isn't sealing and it's an outdoor boiler mine had rust jacking around the door that pushed the gasket out further than the door could be adjusted correctly resulting in leaks. So when you replace it get all the rust and old caulk out of there and start fresh.
Also instead of glue I used fire caulk to set mine in the groove and pushed the caulk into the frayed end. Seem to have no issues with the fraying.

 

[Gundy]

I put the wd-40 on while I am using it and maybe once or twice in the off season. I should state this is for an outdoor boiler.

 

[nathan4104]

Thanks for checking, it had to be mailed up to me, so who knows when it’ll get here!

 

[nathan4104]

Mail came the other day, and got the new gasket installed. What a difference! This material was a world different than the hardware store stuff, although they must have it on a huge roll cause they just sent a random length. It is the ‘grey’ gasket material, and feels way ‘better’ than the ‘white’ hardware store stuff, like it won’t go flaky.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I just had an ordeal with replacing my gasket on my 1993 Dovre Aurora stove; I used gasket that I got from the stove shop where the stove came from years ago, had it in the basement and figured I'd just take the old one out and clean up the stove and put this one in but it was so thick the door wouldn't close! This lead me to do some research and I learned that there are different "densities" to these gaskets, low, medium and high or soft, hard and hardest. I went with the softest one that I could find at the local stove shop, 3/4" which is the correct size yet it still turned out to close tighter than I wanted, but until it compresses I am getting around that by pushing on the door right above the latch while closing it, this takes the strain off of the latch. I can feel that it slowly is compressing when I close the door without doing this, but it's only been on a week so it'll take more time, but until then I will close it like I said. And I have the door and latch as loose as it can be, I thought I could start loose and snug it up but it's so tight this way I have to let it be, don't know why but it is, maybe there is a difference in "softness" between gasket brands but I didn't feel like finding out I just wanted to get this back on and the stove running again. I never knew that there was such a difference in the gaskets but I learned something valuable this way!