Yet Another Husky 455 Oil Question

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masser987

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I always try to do my research before posting such questions, but I am at a loss here. I got a Husqvarna 455 Rancher refurbished about 7 years ago. It always leaked, but I didn't mind. That is until this summer when trying to cut some wood, I noticed it wasn't cutting well. Got a new chain, but after about 10 minutes, it also wouldn't cut well, and I noticed it was smoking. After reading up, I checked to see if it was getting bar fluid, and found that to be the problem. Again, did research, and as the parts were cheap, I replaced the entire delivery line (rubber feeder from oil tank to oil pump, oil pump, feeder tube to bar hole, as well as worm gear as it was worn). I even used a Locktite gasket sealant as one person did on what seemed like a very professional replacement video on Youtube. I blew out the bar and checked the holes, and felt completely confident that everything was done, done right, and it would be smooth sailing.

Nope. Still leaks from the bottom (I cleaned the bar when it connects to the body of the saw), and the bar still seems like it isn't getting oil (checked by placing the tip near some brown wrapping paper and running engine for a minute). Someone mentioned to make sure the check value for the oil tank wasn't plugged, so what the hell, going to replace that. When I hand turn the worm gear, oil does appear where it would feed the bar. I am now at a complete loss as to explain the leak, and the lack of oil on the bar. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
After you replace the vent if it still has issues there is one far out there thing that can happen but the chances are very remote. If you make a decent cut then set the saw on the ground and it idles for a minute, when you pick it up and hit the throttle does it give heavy smoke out the muffler for a few seconds?
 
i had the same problem with mine. Leaked oil all over the place but the bar wasn’t getting much oil and it wore out the chains and bar something awful. The rubber hose that delivers the oil to the bar was not sealing to the bar well enough so it just ran down the bar and out the bottom of the clutch cover. try putting a spacer behind the oil delivery port so that it seals to the bar better. I used a couple of toothpicks cut to fit the length of the hole. I later replaced the tube with a new OEM tube and that seamed to correct the issue. If you replaced the tube already try the spacers behind the tube. Hope that all makes sense.
 
After you replace the vent if it still has issues there is one far out there thing that can happen but the chances are very remote. If you make a decent cut then set the saw on the ground and it idles for a minute, when you pick it up and hit the throttle does it give heavy smoke out the muffler for a few seconds?
Part should be here late this week, and I will give that a try.
 
i had the same problem with mine. Leaked oil all over the place but the bar wasn’t getting much oil and it wore out the chains and bar something awful. The rubber hose that delivers the oil to the bar was not sealing to the bar well enough so it just ran down the bar and out the bottom of the clutch cover. try putting a spacer behind the oil delivery port so that it seals to the bar better. I used a couple of toothpicks cut to fit the length of the hole. I later replaced the tube with a new OEM tube and that seamed to correct the issue. If you replaced the tube already try the spacers behind the tube. Hope that all makes sense.
That just could be the ticket. There must be a gap somewhere, and from what you describe, that just might be it. Thank you so much. Will update once the new parts come and can give it a try.
 
A followup on this. I am at my wit's end here. I have now replaced every part I can think of in the bar oil system, including a new bar which I probably needed. I put some tooth picks behind the feeder tube that connects with the bar as suggested as it did look like it would not have made contact with the bar (why I don't know). Started it up, and again testing against a white piece of paper, I get no indication oil is coming off it. And again, after turning it off, I get a small quarter sized leak of oil on the floor where I put the chainsaw. Cannot think what in the heck is going on here. Any additional thoughts would be welcome. Thanks again.
 
Vacuum and pressure test the oil tank. Shouldn't hold a vacuum, should hold 7 lbs of pressure.
 
I always try to do my research before posting such questions, but I am at a loss here. I got a Husqvarna 455 Rancher refurbished about 7 years ago. It always leaked, but I didn't mind. That is until this summer when trying to cut some wood, I noticed it wasn't cutting well. Got a new chain, but after about 10 minutes, it also wouldn't cut well, and I noticed it was smoking. After reading up, I checked to see if it was getting bar fluid, and found that to be the problem. Again, did research, and as the parts were cheap, I replaced the entire delivery line (rubber feeder from oil tank to oil pump, oil pump, feeder tube to bar hole, as well as worm gear as it was worn). I even used a Locktite gasket sealant as one person did on what seemed like a very professional replacement video on Youtube. I blew out the bar and checked the holes, and felt completely confident that everything was done, done right, and it would be smooth sailing.

Nope. Still leaks from the bottom (I cleaned the bar when it connects to the body of the saw), and the bar still seems like it isn't getting oil (checked by placing the tip near some brown wrapping paper and running engine for a minute). Someone mentioned to make sure the check value for the oil tank wasn't plugged, so what the hell, going to replace that. When I hand turn the worm gear, oil does appear where it would feed the bar. I am now at a complete loss as to explain the leak, and the lack of oil on the bar. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I always try to do my research before posting such questions, but I am at a loss here. I got a Husqvarna 455 Rancher refurbished about 7 years ago. It always leaked, but I didn't mind. That is until this summer when trying to cut some wood, I noticed it wasn't cutting well. Got a new chain, but after about 10 minutes, it also wouldn't cut well, and I noticed it was smoking. After reading up, I checked to see if it was getting bar fluid, and found that to be the problem. Again, did research, and as the parts were cheap, I replaced the entire delivery line (rubber feeder from oil tank to oil pump, oil pump, feeder tube to bar hole, as well as worm gear as it was worn). I even used a Locktite gasket sealant as one person did on what seemed like a very professional replacement video on Youtube. I blew out the bar and checked the holes, and felt completely confident that everything was done, done right, and it would be smooth sailing.

Nope. Still leaks from the bottom (I cleaned the bar when it connects to the body of the saw), and the bar still seems like it isn't getting oil (checked by placing the tip near some brown wrapping paper and running engine for a minute). Someone mentioned to make sure the check value for the oil tank wasn't plugged, so what the hell, going to replace that. When I hand turn the worm gear, oil does appear where it would feed the bar. I am now at a complete loss as to explain the leak, and the lack of oil on the bar. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
YOUR first sentence or two would describe to my knowledge, my SIL's 455 history and oil issues, and I found the oil pump mount screw HOLE in plastic stripped, so pump leaks on tank side of pump (O-ring/ rubber seal, if I recall properly?), and probably does not have proper gear action either? about same age and complaint? OTHER POSSIBILITES: STRAINER/ HOSE in Oil Tank clogged w/ sawdust FINES; TIP: Always carry/ use paintbrush to clean tank cap areas before removing caps and refilling oil/ gas; this will save many headaches from sawdust in fuel/ oil tank filters. Some owners (on some saw brand/ model?) used to find sawdust clogging all the way to the pump.
 
A followup on this. I am at my wit's end here. I have now replaced every part I can think of in the bar oil system, including a new bar which I probably needed. I put some tooth picks behind the feeder tube that connects with the bar as suggested as it did look like it would not have made contact with the bar (why I don't know). Started it up, and again testing against a white piece of paper, I get no indication oil is coming off it. And again, after turning it off, I get a small quarter sized leak of oil on the floor where I put the chainsaw. Cannot think what in the heck is going on here. Any additional thoughts would be welcome. Thanks again.
YUP, works best when oil goes into pump and out of hose at the bar, WITHOUT LEAKS BETWEEN :) You do realize pump ONLY works when chain spinning? (No insult intended)
 
Read on another thread that there is an updated tube for these. The original one had an odd twist molded into that never let it seal right on one end or the other. Order a new feed tube (from pump to bar). I hate just throwing parts at stuff but this seems to be a common problem and that seems to solve it. Didn’t have any problems with mine after replacing the tube.
 
I always try to do my research before posting such questions, but I am at a loss here. I got a Husqvarna 455 Rancher refurbished about 7 years ago. It always leaked, but I didn't mind. That is until this summer when trying to cut some wood, I noticed it wasn't cutting well. Got a new chain, but after about 10 minutes, it also wouldn't cut well, and I noticed it was smoking. After reading up, I checked to see if it was getting bar fluid, and found that to be the problem. Again, did research, and as the parts were cheap, I replaced the entire delivery line (rubber feeder from oil tank to oil pump, oil pump, feeder tube to bar hole, as well as worm gear as it was worn). I even used a Locktite gasket sealant as one person did on what seemed like a very professional replacement video on Youtube. I blew out the bar and checked the holes, and felt completely confident that everything was done, done right, and it would be smooth sailing.

Nope. Still leaks from the bottom (I cleaned the bar when it connects to the body of the saw), and the bar still seems like it isn't getting oil (checked by placing the tip near some brown wrapping paper and running engine for a minute). Someone mentioned to make sure the check value for the oil tank wasn't plugged, so what the hell, going to replace that. When I hand turn the worm gear, oil does appear where it would feed the bar. I am now at a complete loss as to explain the leak, and the lack of oil on the bar. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
Remove bar and clean BAR CHAIN GROOVE and OIL SLOT (@ mount) and OIL HOLE (on BAR) Between groove and slot? Make sure when BAR is MOUNTED, that it seats fully/ FLAT against the body mount, or oil can DRAIN OUT that GAP (*BETWEEN BAR/ BODY) before ever being forced UP THRU THE BAR OIL HOLE to the chain groove? (Properly assembled) THERE ALSO should be a PLATE covering/ sealing the outside of the OIL SLOT. COMMON OILER PROBLEMS ARE: 1) STRAINER SCREEN INSIDE OILTank= Clogged w/ sawdust; 2) PUMP clogged w/ sawdust; 3) OIL HOSE clogged w/ sawdust; 4) Mount OIl Hole Clogged; Bar oil ports clogged. BEST PREVENTION PRACTICE is to use a paint brush to brush away sawdust/ clean BEFORE removing OIL AND FUEL CAPS. GOOD LUCK
 
Another member had a similar issues with a 350 recently (very similar design). For him it was due to case deformation from over tightening the bar nuts
This is an across the board problem with plastic bodied saws, once the center around where the bar studs enter the plastic bar pad get raised a few thousands of an inch then the bar itself will not seal tight enough to the bar pad to allow oil delivery to the bar groove/channel. The oil simply runs down between the bar and the pad leaving a puddle after sitting a while.
 
This is an across the board problem with plastic bodied saws, once the center around where the bar studs enter the plastic bar pad get raised a few thousands of an inch then the bar itself will not seal tight enough to the bar pad to allow oil delivery to the bar groove/channel. The oil simply runs down between the bar and the pad leaving a puddle after sitting a while.
I wonder whether a gasket might mitigate the warping and seal the bar enough to channel the oil correctly? After replacing and checking everything, it must be the body is distorted.
 
I wonder whether a gasket might mitigate the warping and seal the bar enough to channel the oil correctly? After replacing and checking everything, it must be the body is distorted.
I remove the bar studs and mill the pad flat, then reinstall the bar studs. I don`t see a good way of getting a tight fit otherwise, the bar will always be tight at the studs but spaced away too much at the oil delivery channel.
 
Cheap quick fix... silicone around the pad area to create a channel for the oil to flow to the bar oil port. I have done this on 1 or 2 of the small 100 series Husky saws I have been rebuilding.

Works fine until you have to flip the bar... then gotta clean the old off and run some new beads again. Really works well when said saw has an inner bar plate... no need to re-apply when bar flipping.
 
Remove bar and clean BAR CHAIN GROOVE and OIL SLOT (@ mount) and OIL HOLE (on BAR) Between groove and slot? Make sure when BAR is MOUNTED, that it seats fully/ FLAT against the body mount, or oil can DRAIN OUT that GAP (*BETWEEN BAR/ BODY) before ever being forced UP THRU THE BAR OIL HOLE to the chain groove? (Properly assembled) THERE ALSO should be a PLATE covering/ sealing the outside of the OIL SLOT. COMMON OILER PROBLEMS ARE: 1) STRAINER SCREEN INSIDE OILTank= Clogged w/ sawdust; 2) PUMP clogged w/ sawdust; 3) OIL HOSE clogged w/ sawdust; 4) Mount OIl Hole Clogged; Bar oil ports clogged. BEST PREVENTION PRACTICE is to use a paint brush to brush away sawdust/ clean BEFORE removing OIL AND FUEL CAPS. GOOD LUCK
 
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