Same here, Except we used A hard Wood Dowell And a bow. We used charred flannel. I think it took all of about 10 seconds
Chainsaw tree crotches
- Thread starter burnbug
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Late to the party but I’ve found more trash in tree crotch pieces than I would like. Rocks , horse shoes, wire, hand tools…. So definitely be prepared to file or carry several extra chains. This has been true of yard trees as well as pasture/fence line trees.
Cut some small logs to get a feel of the saw, then did a few crotch noodles. Everything went smooth. Week later, today, I went to deal with the big pieces. Got the logrite cant lever to rotate and finish the cut. The double crotch piece, I couldnt rotate so i I just went slow to not hit the ground, then stood it up and noodled it.
The hardest part was dollying them across the street!
Haven't run full throttle yet. On the second tank of gas using the same ratio I use in my 250exc, 40:1 so 3.2oz to a gallon. Using Motul 710. Fits perfectly in the Listerine travel bottles
The hardest part was dollying them across the street!
Haven't run full throttle yet. On the second tank of gas using the same ratio I use in my 250exc, 40:1 so 3.2oz to a gallon. Using Motul 710. Fits perfectly in the Listerine travel bottles
This is an alarming statement!
If you are cutting wood at anything less than full throttle, you are doing it wrong. Several considerations:
- You are going too slow. Fatigue and errors will ensue.
- Your saw will overheat. Seriously! The machine was engineered to run at wide-open throttle, with no more load from the wood than necessary to keep the engine speed slowed down a little bit. Turning too fast won't hurt it, as this keeps air blowing rapidly over the engine, which assures a long life for the saw. Cutting slow and heavily loading the engine increases the heat and decreases the cooling.
- At less than full throttle, the "pull" of the chain against the wood fibers is greater. You actually have more pull from the saw on the log than when it is wide open.
- At anything less than full throttle, your chain clutch isn't going to hold as well. Slipping that clutch too much will just burn it up and make a lot of heat.
Here's an overly long video that covers most of the basics.
I saw this in the manual
To do a run-in
• During the first 10 hours of operation, do not apply
full throttle without load for extended periods.
I guess I misinterpreted it a little but I wasn't bogging it by any means. I just didn't pull the trigger ALL the way. Was probably 3/4 throttle when cutting
Thanks for the info.
To do a run-in
• During the first 10 hours of operation, do not apply
full throttle without load for extended periods.
I guess I misinterpreted it a little but I wasn't bogging it by any means. I just didn't pull the trigger ALL the way. Was probably 3/4 throttle when cutting
Thanks for the info.
I think you may be misunderstanding the instructions. That statement is telling you not to run it wide open unless you are cutting wood. That isn't the same meaning as running it at anything less than full throttle while cutting wood.
Trust me! Squeeze that throttle all the way when you are well situated in a cut. Mostly, squeeze that throttle all the way just prior to starting a cut, too.
Trust me! Squeeze that throttle all the way when you are well situated in a cut. Mostly, squeeze that throttle all the way just prior to starting a cut, too.
The Without Load and Extended Periods are both important. Two Stroke engines aren't designed/intended to run at partial throttle. You should warm your new saw up for a little while (30-60 seconds at idle, another 30 - 60 seconds at partial throttle) so all the parts can expand equally. Cold Seizing is a thing. OTOH, with the amount of time you have on your saw, I highly doubt you have damaged anything, so no worries.
NeSurfcaster
ArboristSite Operative
Pretty hard to run my stock 562 at 3/4 throttle, it's all or nothing pretty much.
