Good thing I kept parts saws around.
Pioneer chainsaws
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Good thing I kept parts saws around.
Thats a Great Find Chris, The pics really show what was painted prior to and after assembly. You even got the original Box.
Very nice.
LB6259
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Got the recoil spring for the "frankensaw" FM80, going to get recoil string in the morning to (hopefully) put it back together.
Also have a very rough pioneer coming in...when I say rough, I mean it's rough. Well, to me at least...but I'm up for a challenge. Pics forthcoming once it gets here.
Also have a very rough pioneer coming in...when I say rough, I mean it's rough. Well, to me at least...but I'm up for a challenge. Pics forthcoming once it gets here.
Good luck LB.
Lou
I bought my Farmsaw new, long long ago.
I've replaced a pull rope and purchased a 24" bar for her but that is all I've needed in the way of maintenance and modification.
She has been very good to me; again I wish you good luck with yours.
Lou
I bought my Farmsaw new, long long ago.
I've replaced a pull rope and purchased a 24" bar for her but that is all I've needed in the way of maintenance and modification.
She has been very good to me; again I wish you good luck with yours.
Howdy pioneer crew. Look what I found lurking in the back of the shed! It came in a big group of saws I bought I while back. 
turmlos
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello all,
I recently picked up my first Pioneer, a P25 with original case and scrench. Cleaned and set the points, rebuilt the carb, installed new fuel lines & an Echo vent, scraped out quite a bit of carbon buildup. Runs and cuts great, but doesn't oil much at all. I'll look into that soon. It also needs a new air filter cover like most of them do. Anyone have one to spare? Last but not least, does anybody know a source for 3/8 .058 61DL chain? I don't have the capability to make my own unfortunately.
Todd
I recently picked up my first Pioneer, a P25 with original case and scrench. Cleaned and set the points, rebuilt the carb, installed new fuel lines & an Echo vent, scraped out quite a bit of carbon buildup. Runs and cuts great, but doesn't oil much at all. I'll look into that soon. It also needs a new air filter cover like most of them do. Anyone have one to spare? Last but not least, does anybody know a source for 3/8 .058 61DL chain? I don't have the capability to make my own unfortunately.
Todd
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Very nice that is a clean saw. There's a seller on eBay who does 3D print reproduction of these filter covers. As all the pioneer fans know, it is seldom we find the small p-series saws without a broken or missing cover. I always scoop them up when I see one still in tact. Really like these saws they are very easy to work on, plenty of power for the size and reliable too! Nice find.
That chain loop sounds a bit unique, is it the OEM size?
Luckily I've picked up so many of these saws complete, I have many spare bars & chains for them (but I need em lol)
The husky small bar mount pattern fits these saws - all mine are in .325 pitch though
Little Jerrry
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Gents
Picked up a 1200A that revs cleanly but the power seems to cut in and out at times occasionally when cutting wood. I still need to fill the tank 100% full of fuel to eliminate some kind of starvation issue to do with changing the angle I am holding the saw when cutting.
My question is: if the issue is spark related and I want to swap in an ignition chip:
- do I need to change the timing by moving the flywheel?
- will any chip work (are they basically all the same) or do I need one that specifically works with Pioneer etc.
On a side note: were these Pioneer saws painted or powder coated from the factory? This one I picked up has been poorly resprayed with a rattle can.
Appreciate any help
Adam
Picked up a 1200A that revs cleanly but the power seems to cut in and out at times occasionally when cutting wood. I still need to fill the tank 100% full of fuel to eliminate some kind of starvation issue to do with changing the angle I am holding the saw when cutting.
My question is: if the issue is spark related and I want to swap in an ignition chip:
- do I need to change the timing by moving the flywheel?
- will any chip work (are they basically all the same) or do I need one that specifically works with Pioneer etc.
On a side note: were these Pioneer saws painted or powder coated from the factory? This one I picked up has been poorly resprayed with a rattle can.
Appreciate any help
Adam
turmlos
ArboristSite Lurker
Good question. It came with two of these 61DL chain loops. The parts list seems to indicate .325 pitch for these saws, however I removed the clutch drum and it is stamped 3/8 and appears to have some original paint on it. The bar is a Pioneer roller nose so pitch doesn't matter. I may have to get a new drum and go .325 after I use up these chains. Oddly enough I picked up a Partner several months back that also had a 61DL loop.
I removed the oiler and cleaned everything up, but it was probably working before. It appears that the bar oil cutouts/channels on the bar aren't quite lining up with the saw oil output hole. I may have to do a little grinding with the Dremel.
Are the drive sprocket and chain worn that the bar adjust will not allow alignment ?
I have found it much better to keep the saw running with points -condenser than the chips that often don`t last very long, they often cause the timing to be off and fiddling with the timing changes often throughout the life of the chip. The chips get very hot and need to be mounted where there is little heat from the saw itself and good airflow to help cool them. Pioneer saws were painted from the factory and most lost a lot of paint when stored in cold damp conditions.
Many of the small cc Pioneer saws came equipped with 3/8" chains, the powerheads were reed valve induction and had more torque than piston ported saws make, they could pull the bigger cutters really well.
I looked at the P25 specs on acresinternet.com . The long stroke , 7500 max rpm , and K095 bar mount .
turmlos
ArboristSite Lurker
That could be the problem, I've got a new sprocket on the way at least. Time will tell. I'd hate to have to modify the bar.
When you pull the chain slowly by hand do you feel the chain get tight and loosen up as the drive links move in and out of the spur ?
The .058 gauge chain was a Husqvarna thing here in this area, few other saws used it but its possible you could find a chain for it looking at the Husqvarna specified chains, possibly OREGON as well as Husqvarna dealers. All my Pioneers have been .050 or .063 gauge through the years.but an oddity can certainly be found,even from the factory. Looking in my chain books it appears 61 dl is a very oddball chain, as most 16 inch bars list 60 dl for .058 in 3/8" pitch.
turmlos
ArboristSite Lurker
I didn't get a chance to play with it today but when I do I will let you know. It never crossed my mind to test them like this (I'm fairly new to the chainsaw world). I did notice that the spur was in pretty sad shape and ordered a new one soon thereafter.
I tried a new 60DL loop but it was too small. .058 gauge is what I use the most, all of my Partners run it as do several of my McCullochs. But I'm no professional and Partners are definitely uncommon around here. I finally broke down and ordered a chain breaker and spinner. I'm sure they will pay for themselves eventually, especially in situations like this.
Little Jerrry
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Basic question gents:
This 1200A I have recently attained leaks fuel from the fuel cap. Based on the IPL it seems I am missing a gasket under the fuel cap.
I'll just make my own....can anyone advise approx gasket thickness I would need. Probably doesn't really matter, but just thought i'd ask before buying a cork sheet
This 1200A I have recently attained leaks fuel from the fuel cap. Based on the IPL it seems I am missing a gasket under the fuel cap.
I'll just make my own....can anyone advise approx gasket thickness I would need. Probably doesn't really matter, but just thought i'd ask before buying a cork sheet
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