What style bull rope for rigging?

[HumBurner]

I've recently made the plunge and purchased gear for climbing. While I am only at the beginning of this journey, I prefer to get whatever gear I may end up needing. I'm a long, long ways from doing removals and chunking down a tree, but I'm having a hard time selecting a bull rope.

What I have ordered, ropewise, is a 150' strand of 1/2" Tango Ivy as a climb line and 120' 3/8" Stable Braid for lowering limbs/small stuff, etc.

Does the Stable Braid in larger size (thinking 5/8", most likely at this time) provide enough stretch for larger chunks of wood, or will that be at risk of snapping with shock-load? Pretty much all the ropes I've browsed say "low-stretch", but I'm uncertain what the estimated %s of stretch is best for moderate to heavy loads.

I'm not looking for a rope to pull trees over with, as I have wire-rigging and grip-hoist rigging, plus other ropes for that.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[ZinTrees]

I've negative rigged some huge chunks off stablebraid, with a good rope guy it works alright, although some more stretch can be nice, look at something like 5/8 dynasorb for neg rigging larger stuff

also, you do NOT want to use cable to pull trees down, that dynasorb will do excellent as it will keep pulling the tree as it falls, cable will just go slack and you lose all the directional assistance since theres little to no stretch, even more important if you aren't using a machine to pull, a comealong ain't pulling fast enough to keep a cable tight


I used to use exclusively half inch trueblue and stablebraid, but now I keep a 3/4 pelican rope with me at all times since my new machine will snap a half inch line like its a piece of fishing string, that pelican is some pretty good rope and not super expensive

 

[HumBurner]

I've negative rigged some huge chunks off stablebraid, with a good rope guy it works alright, although some more stretch can be nice, look at something like 5/8 dynasorb for neg rigging larger stuff

also, you do NOT want to use cable to pull trees down, that dynasorb will do excellent as it will keep pulling the tree as it falls, cable will just go slack and you lose all the directional assistance since theres little to no stretch, even more important if you aren't using a machine to pull, a comealong ain't pulling fast enough to keep a cable tight


I used to use exclusively half inch trueblue and stablebraid, but now I keep a 3/4 pelican rope with me at all times since my new machine will snap a half inch line like its a piece of fishing string, that pelican is some pretty good rope and not super expensive

Thank you for the suggestions. I will look into those. I've perused the dynasorb some, but I haven't looked into the Pelican.

As far as pulling trees with cable, we've been doing it for a long time (myself for 14 years) and what little slacking may occur hasn't been an issue. Then again, we're often using the rigging to 1) pull against lean, or 2) ensure that a tree can be pulled through the canopy (if it is likely or guaranteed to hang-up) and/or one or more surrounding trees. Directional control would be influenced by hinge/wedges/blocks/and less commonly a rope.

 

[ZinTrees]

Directional control would be influenced by hinge/wedges/blocks/and less commonly a rope.

we put a rope in anything basically, as per ANSI requirements, only time we don't would be a head leaner into a field

 

[HumBurner]

we put a rope in anything basically, as per ANSI requirements, only time we don't would be a head leaner into a field

That's insane! I'm sorry you have to do that.

 

[ZinTrees]

That's insane! I'm sorry you have to do that.

We dont have to per se, but we do it anyways, insurance company likes us for it

I believe ansi requires any tree over 6" dbh to have a rope when the telling direction needs controlled



It doesn't take any longer, and pulling is a lot safer and easier than wedging, imo

We follow the cut with wedges when pulling, should the rope break, the tree is fairly well supported