Thank you.
What does that do for power/displacement? What kind of gains?
So a woods port job does what, exactly?
It's just pretty much just a milder form of porting that optimizes the peak power to be in a useable range for a work saw. I generally aim to move the peak power up in the rpm range compared to a stock saw, but not so much that it's unusable or is super "peaky."
I do my own saws, I start by turning the combustion chamber down to bump up compression, followed by decking the cylinder to correct for squish. This action effectively opens the intake port sooner(more duration) and opens the exhaust port later(less duration.)
Depending on where the numbers lie, I might adjust port heights from there with a flex-shaft grinder. I may or may not widen the ports. With a work saw, I try to stay conservative on port width...you don't want them so wide that it puts extra stress on the rings or possibly snags a ring. I usually open up the transfer ports as well. I also smooth/shape the ports...there isn't really a recipe for this, I just try to envision what shapes would flow the best.
Finally, I finish up with exhaust modifications and sometimes advance the timing. Honestly, just opening up the muffler is good enough for most people. There are some saws that come from the factory with horrible port timing numbers, but most saws are pretty close. On some saws, I also do aftermarket air filtration. I like Max-flows on any of the older, non-air injected Stihls(440-880.) Especially when milling, if you do a 880 copy, you'll find that the air filter will fill up fast.