I want to "mod the muff" on my new CS590

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cemiii

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30 miles east of Lodi, CA
I've read several different threads on this and they're all a bit different. I really don't want to over do it on a brand new saw.
One suggests cutting out the inner 90 degree diverter with machinery.
Another says just remove the inner diverter plate and throw it away (which sounds a lot easier if it accomplishes the same thing)
One says to cut a hole in a flat spot above the inner pipe (and shows a big hole).
others have suggested 3/8 or 1/2 holes in that area. One showed a couple tiny holes there.
The only technically tested mod seemed to suggest cutting out the inner diverter and removing a black plastic tab under the air filter.
All I know for sure is that I want to keep the screen on to keep it clean in there and meet fire arrester concerns.
It's a bit confusing, but..................
Can someone tell me their setup that they really like and sizably improves performance.
 
The CS-590 I bought this year didn't have a "separate" inner diverter. Instead it was spot-welded to the outer deflector. I used a dremel with a small cutoff to remove the inner diverter, cleaned up with a small stone and retained the screen. Remove limiter caps and retune. Saw runs real good.

From what I've been told, any further modification of the muffler and it starts to get loud and annoying (tone). Either way, it'll never be a night and say difference in terms of performance. So no point in going to crazy, unless you plan to port the saw.

Start with the deflector and see how you like it... the 590 is super easy to work on. I think I did the MM in 10 min or so.

image-2.jpeg image-3.jpeg
 
They get loud quick and not a good loud but i can tell it really helps the saw i drilled the flat 3/8 but removing the defelector bottom really helped.
 
They get loud quick and not a good loud but i can tell it really helps the saw i drilled the flat 3/8 but removing the defelector bottom really helped.

I kinda like that nasty pop they have. The only reason I welded mine up and did the dp muff mod is because I got tired of my fellow wood cutters constantly ********.

It's too loud
It hurts my ears
I can feel the concussion in my sinus
You keep lighting **** on fire

:nofunny: it was never ending
 
While your at it with the common MM, tab delete, spit back delete. You should really consider a base gasket delete and some 40:1 mix. I did that and picked up about 30psi ;)
 
I removed the inner delecter but when I opened up the air filter there was no tab. Perhaps they have changed them? On mine the black plastic just slopes away from the post hole towards the carb side. Maybe this is an improvement to the tab design?
 
I removed the inner delecter but when I opened up the air filter there was no tab. Perhaps they have changed them? On mine the black plastic just slopes away from the post hole towards the carb side. Maybe this is an improvement to the tab design?

That is what you take out
 
Air filter? The limiter caps are on the side of the carb. Line up the limiter tabs with the slots in the carb body, drywall screw, pull the limiters out, cut the tabs off, reinstall.
 
My limiter caps are off for tuning. What I was talking about is the black plastic piece inside the air filter. This is shown and discussed in the mod discussion posted by Team fast. It shows a gain of around .8 CFS on the intake side.

By the way I had only run the saw once for about 30 min., but when I pulled the air filter there was noticeable evidence of dirty air being pulled in from around the air filter/carb mating base. So I think it does make sense to seal that edge with RTV or at least grease, as a preventative measure.
 
I put a oring on mine it sealed it completely used to use grease it worked but attracted dust and was messy.
 
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