stihl 661 large bar info???
- Thread starter waterweasle
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waterweasle
ArboristSite Lurker
Yes thank you, I emailed them.
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
Good. Also check Madsens as JTM recommended.
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htetreau
ArboristSite Lurker
Welcome to the site Joe!
Before spending the money on larger equipment, can you try free-handing the crosscut to inspect the results, perhaps just a thin sliced cookie?
The reason I'm suggesting is that I've had surprisingly good results "cookie-ing" maple stumps up to 48" diameter using a 28" Stihl ES bar (3/8" pitch, 0.050 guage). I was surprised at how flat (planar) the initial cut was - not wavy at all. Then, the successive cuts were not only just as flat, but also remarkably parallel to the first surface - like within 1/4" parallelism over ~48" diameter.
My recommendation would be to start with a sharp chain, making your initial cut while paying careful attention to its orientation (make sure the bar is in the plane you want your surface). Cut as much as you can from that initial position by rotating the bar into the cut utilizing the bucking spikes. Before the bar begins to exit the stump, reposition the powerhead without removing the bar from the kerf - the kerf will be your guide to align the next 'bite' the bar & chain take. Wedges can reduce unwanted gouges from the non-cutting side of the bar. Continue repositioning the powerhead keeping the bar in the kerf until you can sever through the whole stump.
Stay safe, good luck &keep us posted!
Before spending the money on larger equipment, can you try free-handing the crosscut to inspect the results, perhaps just a thin sliced cookie?
The reason I'm suggesting is that I've had surprisingly good results "cookie-ing" maple stumps up to 48" diameter using a 28" Stihl ES bar (3/8" pitch, 0.050 guage). I was surprised at how flat (planar) the initial cut was - not wavy at all. Then, the successive cuts were not only just as flat, but also remarkably parallel to the first surface - like within 1/4" parallelism over ~48" diameter.
My recommendation would be to start with a sharp chain, making your initial cut while paying careful attention to its orientation (make sure the bar is in the plane you want your surface). Cut as much as you can from that initial position by rotating the bar into the cut utilizing the bucking spikes. Before the bar begins to exit the stump, reposition the powerhead without removing the bar from the kerf - the kerf will be your guide to align the next 'bite' the bar & chain take. Wedges can reduce unwanted gouges from the non-cutting side of the bar. Continue repositioning the powerhead keeping the bar in the kerf until you can sever through the whole stump.
Stay safe, good luck &keep us posted!
gemniii
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I bought my long Oregon bar from Bailey's back in about 2010. Have you checked there?
waterweasle
ArboristSite Lurker
Baileys seems to carry just 0.63 gauge, madsens, Same thing. 0.63, called oregon direct, they don't make one.........uggghhhh
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
The .63 gauge would actually be better for a longer bar. It'll oil better.
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waterweasle
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm trying to change as little as possible, woildntni have to swap sprockets then
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
I'm not sure if you have to. Still same pitch just different gauge but I'm not sure. I wish I ordered mine with the .63 for better oiling. I think swapping sprockets is fairly cheap but again, not positive.
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Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
You don't need to swap sprockets to change gauges. Only when you change pitch. The disadvantage of having bars in multiple gauges is that you can't buy a reel of chain and make loops for all your bars. Also, say you hit some metal with your big loop and took out some cutters. If had a shorter bar in the same pitch and gauge, you could salvage a short loop out of the bigger loop. But .063 oils better, and if you're trying to run a 42" on a 661, you're gonna want all the oiling advantages you can get.
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
waterweasle
ArboristSite Lurker
So I can run a 0.63 bar and 0.63 chain on the sprocket i have now?!?! Problem solved!!!!! My brain hurts now, Thanks for the education, actually learned a bunch, Thanks guys
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
For a 42"+ bar I wouldn't buy anything else but a Cannon we run them on 390's from time to time and they oil just fine for falling as well as bucking timber. 36" shouldn't be an issue, now to the sprocket all 3/8's chain runs the same sprocket the difference is hub size then .404 is the other sprocket. Most bucking I do even in big wood 36" up we do with a 32" bar we will start on top or bottom then saw in the compression side then back to the other to release with no pull and most time now wave or difference in cut.
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waterweasle
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm only using this bar/chain for one project at the moment, to cut a large stumps into cookies. Hopefully about 8-10 cuts total, then I'll be back to using my smaller bar for milling
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know how that goes I've had to drop 400 on a bar and chain for a single job before just part of life.
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Grande Dog
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
Howdy,
We just got our narrow kerf GB bars in and I'm going to be running low introductory pricing for a while on the initial shipment. Long story short, I have a 42" bar that bolt right to your saw and is set with a tip for Lo Pro chain only at $55.82. They're probably going to retail at $85-$90 for this size bar but, I'm going to let this first batch of Lo Pro milling bars go for close to cost. Mostly to see what kind of interest there is, and possibly some feedback on performance. We have rims ($6.60) to convert a standard spline drum to drive Lo Pro / Picco chain, and of course plenty of chain. I brought in 20"($42.28), 24"($45.36), 30"($48.44, 36"($52.12), and 42"($55.82). We're working now on getting to our website. The Narrow Kerf Mill kits are giving us some issues but, we'll get it.
Regards
Gregg
We just got our narrow kerf GB bars in and I'm going to be running low introductory pricing for a while on the initial shipment. Long story short, I have a 42" bar that bolt right to your saw and is set with a tip for Lo Pro chain only at $55.82. They're probably going to retail at $85-$90 for this size bar but, I'm going to let this first batch of Lo Pro milling bars go for close to cost. Mostly to see what kind of interest there is, and possibly some feedback on performance. We have rims ($6.60) to convert a standard spline drum to drive Lo Pro / Picco chain, and of course plenty of chain. I brought in 20"($42.28), 24"($45.36), 30"($48.44, 36"($52.12), and 42"($55.82). We're working now on getting to our website. The Narrow Kerf Mill kits are giving us some issues but, we'll get it.
Regards
Gregg
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
That's a heck of a bargain Gregg. I'm not being rude but I've heard the lo pro chain isn't recommended for the more powerful saws. Am I wrong? I'm only asking because at that price, I'm definitely interested in a longer bar. I also have a 661 and the longest bar I have is 36". Thanks
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waterweasle
ArboristSite Lurker
lol I'm barely hanging in with the questions I was asking, and you toss in Lipton thisband that.........lol. Don't make my head explode
Grande Dog
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
Howdy,
There are folks using Lo Pro on the Logosol mills ripping with no issues. The 45 degree cookie (not to be confused with refrigerator cookies) is the toughest cut to make because of grain orientation. I would say chain like the 63PMX would be removing a third less wood from the kerf as a full size 3/8 chain. Right away you're looking at a lot less resistance to the power.
Regards
Gregg
There are folks using Lo Pro on the Logosol mills ripping with no issues. The 45 degree cookie (not to be confused with refrigerator cookies) is the toughest cut to make because of grain orientation. I would say chain like the 63PMX would be removing a third less wood from the kerf as a full size 3/8 chain. Right away you're looking at a lot less resistance to the power.
Regards
Gregg
