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The cutter at the very end of the tip is still making contact with the wood, though. That should cause the bar to kick straight up. Or am I missing something?

I've had to bury my bar tip into logs wider than my bar is long, yet didn't experience kickback. How does that work? See this guy at 2:12 for example. He's clearly cutting with the tip but the saw doesn't jump up.

That's the thing that annoys me: it's got 68 drivelinks, which IS divisible by 4. I wonder if it's because the joining link is different from the others? (See close-up pic in original post.) I would, except I bought it on eBay over a year ago, and only got around to using it recently. Bit late...

I'm going to keep an eye on it on longer cuts and see how it goes. If I notice it's cutting crooked I might experiment with the length/depth of one of the extra cutters and see how it goes.

Cheers guys. Still curious to understand why it won't cut crooked, though. When I started hand-sharpening my chains, my left cutters always ended up slightly shorter than the right ones, and it cut crooked as a result. How come a whole extra tooth doesn't make a difference?

So while sharpening my new Oregon chain, I noticed that there seemed to be a cutter missing where it was joined together. Reading through the forum, this seems to be fairly normal and most people say not to sweat it. Two questions: 1) I didn't notice any dishing while limbing, but will it cut...

Milkman, did you have to tinker around so the wider flange on the new stud would fit nicely in the casing?

I reckon the 251 would be the same, although the cover would need work to allow room for the second nut. But I'll wait until the warranty runs out, just in case. I really don't understand why Stihl wouldn't put 2 studs for the traditional version, the thread is already there! The traditional...

Thanks guys, that makes me feel a bit better about it all. Flip D, I assume (and I hope!) you meant to say "I wouldn't worry about it." Correct? Looks like I might keep the 251 and turn it into a dual stud set-up if the first one ever gets ripped out (and once it's out of warranty).

I appreciate the heads-up, but I'm only using it on the farm. I strongly believe that changing it to a dual stud set-up would actually make it much safer. As stated above, some people had the whole bar and chain come off because the single stud failed. Having two studs would have avoided that.

Update: I called my Stihl dealer to order the parts. When I told the mechanic what I wanted to do, he told me it was not possible because the stud and the pin/post have different threads. He said he'd tried it and cracked the casing. Edit: I took one of the studs out of my MS 250 and it fits...

Has anyone here modified their Stihl 251 so it has two studs rather than the original 1 (threaded into plastic!) The 251 is the perfect saw for me, except I just can't trust their ridiculous single stud design. I feel like I have to baby the saw every time I use it or transport it. There are...

Oh yes, I didn't see that when I looked through the manual. Certainly better than finger tight, but still pretty vague as you said. I rang the shop and asked them, but they couldn't figure out a two-bolt cover that would fit the 251. :-( If anyone knows of one I'd love to hear it.

Been looking at a MS 251 for a while now. Finally bit the bullet and got mine yesterday. I must say I'm rather unimpressed so far, mostly by the crappy single bar nut design. Due to the bar not getting oil at first, I took the clutch cover on and off a few times. At one stage, as I was...

Is this some kind of weird computer-generated response? Either that, or I've got a lot more to learn about saws, because I couldn't make sense of it at all...

Hi everyone, I've read on a few different websites that the reason a chain will cut crooked is because either the left or right set of teeth is longer than the other (see http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_cut_pull.htm). But what if the rakers have been filed to the proper height for each set of teeth...