365 to 372 bigbore

[muddstopper]

I have a friend that has a older 365 huskey he says is blown up. straight gas or something. Anyway, I can get it for next to nothing and am thinking about using one of the 372 52mm bigbore kits on it. Beside the P/C am I going to have to change anything else. I have my own 365 that dont need anything so this would just be a project saw, but I dont need to spend a arm and a leg changing a lot of other parts to make it work. I havnt tried to crank the saw or do anything besides look at it and say yep thats a saw. And I can always build it back as the 365 it came from the factory as.

 

[TBS]

Before you tear it down vacuum and pressure test it to help find out what went wrong so you don't wreck a new piston and cylinder.

 

[Mattyo]

 

[muddstopper]

I just figured i would replace the bearings and seals anyways. Might not need them, but if the saw was straight gassed, its a good chance the bearings got hot from lack of oil. I am more concerned with is would the 52 mm kit require a new top cover, different muffler, different carb and/or manifolds. Just because the 52 mm p/c will bolt onto the 365 case isnt a sign the other old parts will bolt up. I have never had a 365 or a 372 apart so I am a little in the dark on this project.

 

[stevetheboatguy]

It should be a direct bolt on, provided the 365 has the later style carb boot and not the bolt on manifold.
If so it's a real easy swap. No real mods needed.

Steven

 

[Marshy]

Have you compared the OEM 372 piston and cylinder kits to the aftermarket big bore kits? I'd personally go with a OEM 372 top end over aftermarket but that's my opinion. You can also find good used 372 cylinders for cheap once in a while and use a meteor piston and save even more money.

 

[Mattyo]

oem big bore is less than $200 for the whole kit... a nice option

buy from Bob
@spike60

 

[009L]

Let us know how this turns out!

Thanks,

Pat

 

[muddstopper]

I plan on picking the saw up in the next few days. I havent really checked on prices or kits, just know they are available. even once I get the saw, it might sit on the bench for a while before I get around to messing with it. I'll post some pics once I get the saw.

 

[pro94lt]

In my youth, I took off a perfectly good 372xp oem jug and installed a aftermarket big bore. Was not impressed. That oem jug has been back on and making me smile for 3 or 4 years now.

 

[muddstopper]

Might not be a big difference in the 372xp and the big bore, but going from 48mm to 52mm should be a big step. I dont know, guess just have to wait and see.

 

[Gypo Logger]

I built 5 AM BB's with great results with a few mods, except for the one I left the wrist pin clips tucked up inside the piston in a plastic bag.

 

[Full Chisel]

I built 5 AM BB's with great results with a few mods, except for the one I left the wrist pin clips tucked up inside the piston in a plastic bag.

Your a brave man for admitting that one!

 

[muddstopper]

Never left the clips out, but I did put a saw together and found a c-clip laying on the table. Had to tear saw back down just to make sure I didnt leave it out.

 

[muddstopper]

Well, fiddle sticks. I went to pick up the 365 saw today. Dug it out and started laughing. Guy said, whats so funny. This isnt a 365, its not even a 55, its a 51. Open mouth, duh expression on his face. Missing muffler so easy to see piston is scorched. I just happen to have 2 topends for a 55, and a 55 I was needing a few body parts to put back together. I gave him $40. I plan on using my 55 bottom crankcase since I already have it broke apart, and buy a couple of 55 stickers to replace the ones that say 51 and putting myself another spare 55 saw together. I guess my conversion project will have to wait until I find a suitable donor saw, not that I am really looking for one.

 

[muddstopper]

I am trying to figure out what to do with this 51. I have a good 55 crankcase and a new p/c. I could just build a stock 55 with the 51 sheetmetal, but I am thinking I want to try and beef it up a little bit. thinking about milling the base to decrease squish and up compression, but am thinking that would screw up the timing. I have never took a grinder to a chainsaw head. I am thinking if I cut the base, then I would have to raise the intake and exhaust ports to keep stock timing. For instance, if I mill the base, .020 than the ports would need to be raised the same .020. since I dont have any stock timing numbers to go off of, maybe someone here can give me some sort of base line as to actual numbers that would work best for a husky 55. I have a degree wheel and a basic understanding of how to check timing on a chainsaw. I can utube with the best of em, but I havent seen any actual numbers posted. I have a lathe so will be doing my own milling. Another thing I am considering is messing with the ignition timing. I can make keyways with a few degrees of offset to advance or retard ignition timing. Kind of need a little guidance on which way to go or just leave alone. Once built, this saw will just be a play pretty since i dont need it for anything else.