Another hot DHT 35 ton? Ideas

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A man goes to his doctor and says. . . "doc . . . it really hurts when I do this." his doc looks the man over for a few minutes and says: " then don't do that and you'll be just fine."
Either way. . . didn't the BSL from dirty sanchez tools say their splitters come with a lifetime parts/labor warranty? Just run it. . . not to the point of Chernobyl but I would think 3 Mile Island heat would be more than safe.
Don't be such a worried Nelly
You got a whole splitter for $700. . . a good quality cooler with fans, plumbing, wiring and oil would cost more than $700
 
I borrowed an IR gun but have yet to run it so once I do for extended time I will update the temp readings then. I did manage to put an TTO hour meter (only) on it today. More than anything just curious as to how many hours I put on a splitter. Should help on oil changes though as well.


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Before you start spending money on a tool you just bought, take a temp reading, my guess is it's fine. I think some are worrying too much, the tanks get really warm the cylinders get hot. This is completely normal. Just going by feel isn't really adequate here. In fact the paint on my splitter cylinder has faded some from the heat.

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Have a 35 T Huskee. Cylinder definitely gets hot but no issues whatever. Change the hydraulic fluid and filter annually but still looks and tastes fine.

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Just don't touch it and run it. hydraulic lines and tanks are going to be hot.
 
My 27 ton gets pretty hot too, but I don't hear DHT owners complaining about anything burning up, so I've never worried about it.
 
I had a Brave logsplitter that the hydraulic oil ran so hot you could not touch the hydraulic ram. . . never had a problem with a seal or hose....nothing. I don't know the quality of the DHT components, but I would not be concerned with the heat. I used that splitter so many hours I wore out a 8hp cast iron briggs and the Honda gx340 I replaced the briggs with was starting to smoke when I finally sold the splitter. So, I am gonna say 3000 plus hours of overheated oil with no problems.
 
I build my own splitter back in the day. About 27 years ago. I was young and didn't know squat about hydraulics. (still don't know a lot). I sealed up both sides of the I beam to make a oil tank on one side and a gasoline tank on the other side. A 3 gal oil tank with a 22 GPM pump. After splitting for an hour or so I, shut it down and heard a hissing / bubbling noise. The oil side got so hot the gasoline was boiling :surprised3:. Anybody know at what temp gasoline boils? Still not knowing anything about Hydraulics, I built a remote fuel tank away from the oil, and was still running a 3 gal oil tank. Yes it ran hot, thought that was normal. Ran that way for around 20 years at 10 cords per year before I drilled out the center of the I beam to double the size of my oil tank. Up to 6 gal now with a 22 GPM pump, still nowhere near big enough. Getting a little older and wiser, and getting on Arborist site, a lot of wisdom here. A couple of years ago I installed a oil cooler with a fan and a oil temp gauge. now the oil runs around 110 degrees F. Did all that heat hurt it? Don't know. Like always, still works like a charm. How hot is too hot? And at what temp does gasoline boil ????
 
OK, you got me curious, so I Googled it. Apparently gasoline boils at between 100 and 400 degrees depending on additives, atmospheric pressure, and some other stuff. Anyway, I found a Youtube video where a guy did an experiment, and the gasoline boiled at 160 F.
 
I just want to jump in on a safety note. Never touch or get close to high pressure hydraulic lines. If there is a pin size leak it will cut under your skin and cause an infection they can't cure. If it's your hand they will amputate within 24 hours if it's an arm they will take it. Nasty to think if it gets in your torso. Learned this in a safety course put on by a company that made some replacement hydraulic hoses for us. Not sure if splitter company's tell buyers this but they should.
 
The hoses are routed in such a way that you really can't get away from them.

My 28t DHT runs hot as well but it's never let me down and the hydraulic oil doesn't smell burnt. It's just a symptom of having a small oil reservoir and no cooler.
 
The magic number where standard cylinder seals, wipers and pickings start to fail is 180°. I.R gun will take the guessing out of it..160° fells damn hot to skin .

180* is being very conservative. Most all systems are ok to around 250* until damage starts happening. Now you wouldn't want to run it that hot, but 180* isn't terrible especially a simple hydraulic circuit like a splitter. I mean even you did melt the thing down, your out maybe $300 in parts. (yeah that's not pocket change, but I'm comparing to equipment where one pump (of several) might be 15-20k.
 
The couple pieces of iron we have with hydraulic temp monitoring alarm around 180*, not so much that "oh ****, it's about to explode" temp, but more like... "hey buddy... not so hard on the machine, or unplug the cottonwood fuzz from the rad and coolers!"

I ran a Toro splitter (was almost brand new, but it sucked...was slow and the fenders needed to be ripped off, still have scars from those things!). Anyhow, it would get the cylinder hot enough within a tank of fuel (maybe 45 mins... very fuel thirsty!) that it would sizzle spit. The owner called Toro about it and it was normal.
 
An update....today at 55 degrees ambient temperature the cylinder read 160 degrees on a cloudy day as well. Seems rather hot to me and now the cylinder seal is leaking and pump appears to be slightly seeping as well.
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I wouldn't worry on a splitter till I was seeing 180° or more in the tank. The oil getting sucked in is what cools the system. The stuff going back to the tank is what needs cooling. Cylinder and return hose from valve are going to be some of the hottest parts.

Every machine I ever ran from splitters to heavy mining equipment got way too hot to touch. Even on a really cold day that was normal.

Kinda nice to warm your gloves on at lunch time.
 
The tank temp was in the 130-40 range depending on where it was scanned. So that is good to know. I expect heat as it is doing work. I will have to contact DHT to see what they will do for the cylinder leaking. My other splitter was 16 years old and never had an issue with leaks.


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Any nicks or scratches in the rod?

I've got one on a mini-excavator that was hit by a rock and seeps a tiny bit while running, been that way for years and so far it's still going, thousands of hours.
 
My Homelite SXL Auto will boil gas after running hard after a few tanks. Not sure on temp, but run the MS440 and the SXL sits.

Cylinder leak I hope they take care of it. My homebuilt splitter is on 4th year and no issues. Granted got as much $$$$ tied up in as the DHT splitter and a lot of hours. I still would add an auxiliary tank. More oil.....more bueno...less heat. Not sure why DHT don't have a good size tank in the first place, might add an additional $40-50 cost and $30-40 more hydraulic fluid to keep product working long term........
 
I'd be curious to see how well a cooler with no forced air would work. I'm sure some heat would radiate off it.
 

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