Any guys running a dt466?

[miko0618]

I bought a truck a while back. It's an international 4700 bucket utility. It weighs 21,000 empty. It might see 22,000 with another guy and all my tree gear. Anyway, it's seems like a good motor. I did a lot of reading on them and it leaves me with a question. My truck does not go fast up hills at all. Now, in third gear it will climb anything really. That's going about 15-25 mph. I feel like it is unstoppable in first or second. My question is, is this about right? I hear about guys running them at 50,000 lbs. I think my truck would do it but very slow. I'm OK with it, just curious.

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[Mowingman]

I have owned several. They are not a powerhouse, by any means. I think they make about 210-220 HP. However, they run forever with minimal maintenance.
Just remember the phrase "slow and steady", when driving anything with a DT466.
You did not mention what trans you have in the truck. In my experience, the DT466 works best with a 10 speed trans. I have seen many with just 5 spd trans mated to this engine. Thank's not nearly enough gears.

 

[miko0618]

It's a 5 speed with a 2 speed rear.

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[miko0618]

The reason I ask is because I am getting a lot of smoke when it's cold. And it takes a long time to crank when it's cold. The guy I got it off said it was rebuilt. It runs like a top. Could it be injectors?

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[Del_]

My 1985 DT466 is 175hp. with a 5 x 2 trans.

 

[miko0618]

Mine is a 94. I think it's around 210-250 hp.

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[Firemech86]

I work on them a lot, the older ones are decent engines, gutless but reliable. The newer ones are junk. Anything after the DT466E is new and a pita. Buy a IPR sensor and keep it in the truck. It will fail eventually. Remember to change the oil religiously. The injectors are driven by oil pressure, and dirty oil will suck power and fuel economy out of the truck.

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[gorman]

Check the belt tensioner on the front engine plate. They sometimes crack off and before u know it you're full tilt towing a load without your water pump turning. Look for cracks where it bolts to the front engine plate.

 

[Greenstar]

Anyone near the Boston area able to help me with mine? My 2000 dt466E in the bucket truck keeps going into "Engine Warn" mode after about 10 minutes of driving, and the power cuts out and goes into like a limp mode. Any ideas? I don't have International diagnostics software to scan it.
I've tried the onboard code reading from the dashboard, but I can't figure this out. I'll pay someone if they can help me troubleshoot and figure this out.

Thanks,
Fellow tree guy! Jamaica Plain, Boston

 

[Firemech86]

I am in California at an international training class right now. I'll pm you my number and see if I can help you out tonight

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[Greenstar]

that would be awesome dude!

 

[Tenderfoot]

Mechanical or HEUI? The 94 was a combination of the HEUI and mechanical pumped Dt466s. They can be made to make about 250-275 hp reliably, but you have to keep an eye on EGT's. I like them.

I have never owned them but all the single axle dumps around me have them and a lot of the 20-30k gvw trucks, 50k is a bit much unless you have a lot of gears. . More weight then that you need to step up a class of engine. The diesel mechanic I know owns 3 or 4 trucks with the mechanical DT466s in them. The HEUIs are a bit less reliable but are still good. You have to be on top of your fuel filters.

If you are cranking a long time in the cold, first thing you should check is your glow plug relay and batteries. White smoke is normal during warm up under about 30F for a couple minutes, especially with the mechanical ones. Change your oil to some 5-40 synthetic and see if things improve a bit. Using the block heater is a good idea too. Is this your first diesel?

 

[Greenstar]

Mechanical or HEUI? The 94 was a combination of the HEUI and mechanical pumped Dt466s. They can be made to make about 250-275 hp reliably, but you have to keep an eye on EGT's. I like them.

I have never owned them but all the single axle dumps around me have them and a lot of the 20-30k gvw trucks, 50k is a bit much unless you have a lot of gears. . More weight then that you need to step up a class of engine. The diesel mechanic I know owns 3 or 4 trucks with the mechanical DT466s in them. The HEUIs are a bit less reliable but are still good. You have to be on top of your fuel filters.

If you are cranking a long time in the cold, first thing you should check is your glow plug relay and batteries. White smoke is normal during warm up under about 30F for a couple minutes, especially with the mechanical ones. Change your oil to some 5-40 synthetic and see if things improve a bit. Using the block heater is a good idea too. Is this your first diesel?

Tenderfoot, were you saying that the mechanical ones can be made to make 250-275hp? I also have a 1986 mechanical dt466. How is it turned up to that, and still kept reliable? What do you do?

 

[Tenderfoot]

Tenderfoot, were you saying that the mechanical ones can be made to make 250-275hp? I also have a 1986 mechanical dt466. How is it turned up to that, and still kept reliable? What do you do?

Yes. You just fiddle with the pump. Don't do too much at once. Just a little bit or it will puke smoke before the turbo spools. That era diesel were making less power then they could for emissions reasons more then reliability reasons. Frankly, based on my experience the engine will be the last thing to have issues. You will be blowing driveshafts, transmissions, and rear ends out before you even touch a DT466s top or bottom end. A pulling tractor I have seen was making 1000HP on a stock top (with bigger studs and an O rings) and 100% stock bottom end for 3 seasons without issues.

I have driven a Dt466 2 1/2 dump that will do rolling burnouts in 3-5th (10 speed). It will spin tires in 6th if you hammer on it empty. That thing has balls. It has lots of get up and go, but you are sitting on the governor doing 62 mph (4.88 rear gears). It does not have a stock pump, turbo or injectors anymore. I suspect it is close to 600HP or more at the wheels. Rather amusing hot rod.

BUT and this is a BIG but I would install a pyrometer in the manifold right before the turbo to keep a weather eye on your exhaust gas temps. Above 1100F for any length of time (10 min)is a problem, but 1250F is ok for short bursts (minute or two). You do not want to get them too hot or you risk an expensive melt down. The turbos on them are not good about 25 or 30lbs of boost (sustained, like for 10 min at a time), but I cannot recall off hand. You can look up the exact model you have and check out some of the diesel forums online for what they will take. Isspro gauges are easy to install and are what I use, autometer are good as well.

From what I recall, a Holset HX40 is a bolt on. I think a 60-65 mm impeller would be a good match for a Dt466. Garret makes a good turbo as well. The Borg Warner S366 should fit on it, you may actually have its predecessor already. They take big boost and lots of abuse, but will have more turbo lag then an HX40. That is if you are looking for the 300hp+ range.



control+f DT466
http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm

This thread is really helpful as well.
http://www.dieselbombers.com/big-rigs-semis/59458-dt466-more-power.html
Do NOT fuss with the timing unless you really know what you are doing. Its too easy to melt a piston that way or make it brutal to cold start. And if you play with the pump too much (add too much fuel) she can run away, but you have to be a bit reckless to get to that point.

 

[Firemech86]

First off, you will not get 1000hp out of a stock dt466.
Getting more than 400hp out of one can be a challenge.
Yes, turning up the aneroid on the pump will get you more fuel in the motor, it can add about 35-50hp IF your turbo and motor are in good shape. Your injection pump will not live for very long like that though. A mild bump on the injection pump adding 10hp or so, will be noticeable and the pump will be ok.
The dt466 is fine for what it is, but it's nothing compared to a Cummins or Cat from the same time period.

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[Tenderfoot]

First off, you will not get 1000hp out of a stock dt466.
Getting more than 400hp out of one can be a challenge.
Yes, turning up the aneroid on the pump will get you more fuel in the motor, it can add about 35-50hp IF your turbo and motor are in good shape. Your injection pump will not live for very long like that though. A mild bump on the injection pump adding 10hp or so, will be noticeable and the pump will be ok.
The dt466 is fine for what it is, but it's nothing compared to a Cummins or Cat from the same time period.

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Not stock IP or turbo, but head and block, albeit with a better head gasket and studs. I think you may have missed that bit or I did not say so clearly.

My old work truck lived the last 20 years turned up like that and beat to hell and back. the MW and P pumps are really, really popular among the pulling and race crowd for their ability to flow massive volumes of fuel reliably. Ive seen a few hilarious work trucks over the years. My personal truck is a 300 RWHP 7.3 Powerstroke. Ive put 40k miles on it set up that way, about half of those towing pretty heavy and it has nary a peep. Be happy to post oil analysis if you do not belive me.

The IH engines are hilariously beefy, the DT 360 makes the 5.9l cummins look under built and those are popular in the ligher tractor pulling crowds for 1000hp builds. From what I understand they only swap turbos, injectors, and pumps till the head gasket blows and O ring and stud them. They last a long time (for a 1k hp tractor at least) if you change the oil after every single run.

 

[Firemech86]

Not stock IP or turbo, but head and block, albeit with a better head gasket and studs. I think you may have missed that bit or I did not say so clearly.

My old work truck lived the last 20 years turned up like that and beat to hell and back. the MW and P pumps are really, really popular among the pulling and race crowd for their ability to flow massive volumes of fuel reliably. Ive seen a few hilarious work trucks over the years. My personal truck is a 300 RWHP 7.3 Powerstroke. Ive put 40k miles on it set up that way, about half of those towing pretty heavy and it has nary a peep. Be happy to post oil analysis if you do not belive me.

The IH engines are hilariously beefy, the DT 360 makes the 5.9l cummins look under built and those are popular in the ligher tractor pulling crowds for 1000hp builds. From what I understand they only swap turbos, injectors, and pumps till the head gasket blows and O ring and stud them. They last a long time (for a 1k hp tractor at least) if you change the oil after every single run.

Im not saying it isnt possible, just that your vastly understating the amount of work to do that to a dt466, i make my living as a mechanic, occasionally working on chainsaws, but mainly working on medium and heavy duty engines in fire trucks and long haul trucks.
The p7100 fuelpumps on the dt466 and cummins isb 12v is a damn good pump, but once you start pushing more fuel at a higher pressure it reduces its reliability and shortens its life expectancy.
I can piont out a dozen cummins isbs with well north of 1 million miles. I have not seen a even a lightly modded engine make 750k. I have only seen a handful of dt466s that gotten to 1mil miles.
Tractor pull engines are a whole different deal than work truck. They dont run those engines long enough to heat soak the block, and if they did, the cooling syystem would not be even close to enough. They would all heat seize before you got a days worth of work out of them. If the injection pump didnt scatter due the the fuel cavitation or preignition in the lines at the pump. Or the valve stems fatigue. Or the liner o rings fail and pump all your coolant into the block hydrolocking everything and shooting rods through the fender....
Everything is relative, what works in a pull truck or tractor is not necessarily going to work in a work truck, and vise versa.
Oh, and if you are o ringing a head or block, its no longer stock. That can be 15+ hours of labor and machine shop time depending on how far you want to go with it, not counting removal/install time.

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[Tenderfoot]

Im not saying it isnt possible, just that your vastly understating the amount of work to do that to a dt466, i make my living as a mechanic, occasionally working on chainsaws, but mainly working on medium and heavy duty engines in fire trucks and long haul trucks.
The p7100 fuelpumps on the dt466 and cummins isb 12v is a damn good pump, but once you start pushing more fuel at a higher pressure it reduces its reliability and shortens its life expectancy.
I can piont out a dozen cummins isbs with well north of 1 million miles. I have not seen a even a lightly modded engine make 750k. I have only seen a handful of dt466s that gotten to 1mil miles.
Tractor pull engines are a whole different deal than work truck. They dont run those engines long enough to heat soak the block, and if they did, the cooling syystem would not be even close to enough. They would all heat seize before you got a days worth of work out of them. If the injection pump didnt scatter due the the fuel cavitation or preignition in the lines at the pump. Or the valve stems fatigue. Or the liner o rings fail and pump all your coolant into the block hydrolocking everything and shooting rods through the fender....
Everything is relative, what works in a pull truck or tractor is not necessarily going to work in a work truck, and vise versa.
Oh, and if you are o ringing a head or block, its no longer stock. That can be 15+ hours of labor and machine shop time depending on how far you want to go with it, not counting removal/install time.

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Honestly, it sounds like Ive gotten myself into a pissing contest you. Turning a fuel screw is not going to kill a truck or shorten its life much, if at all. The 250 hp vs the 220hp dt 466s just had a different pump setting from what I remember and nothing else changed.

Swapping a turbo is not a small task for most people, but its not a 3 or 4 day project, I know I can do one in an afternoon with hand tools. But frankly, how many chip trucks do you see running around with more then 300k miles? Even if you shorten the engine life to 2/3rds its expected life (think the DT were supposed to have a B50 of 500k or so) it still lives as long as the truck. Most I see are ready for the scrap yard at 250k. Ive seen plenty of modded trucks at 3-400k and plenty of stock trucks blown up before 100k. Owner care and maintenance is what makes something last. On all the vehicles I work with the bodies and frames are what go, never the drivetrain. Not semis, but medium duty or light duty stuff the engines always outlive everything else.

 

[Firemech86]

I dont see this as a pissing contest. Im trying to fill some gaps in your education and the advice being given here. Im not going to make much more out of this conversation.
If the OP needs help, he has my number, and if anyone else has questions i have no problem answering them.

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[Greenstar]

Btw, curious if there's anything you'd both agree on..? I keep thinking about getting a T6500 and they seem to come with either an Isuzu(duramax) or a CAT motor. I've heard they both have their minor pros and cons but they can both be good motors. Which would you each prefer if you had the choice? Go!