Craftsman Carb Gasket

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Reggie

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
36
Reaction score
5
Location
Seymour, TN
On Craftsman year 2000 42 cc 18" saw, I cleaned carb and replaced inner gaskets and diaphragms (did not replace needle,) I pulled and got a quick pop, but noticed gas welled up in carb cavity area. I pulled carb off and saw that the Gasket where Carb abuts combustion chamber was half missing. I used hole punches and scissors to make a replacement out of felt gasket material I bought at Autozone. Now, I can't get it to do anything. It seems like too much gas gets into the combustion chamber because the plug is always real wet when I pull it. This felt composite gasket material is thicker than the original gasket. Other than that, I don't have a clue on what to do next. Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers, Reggie
 
Should I spray carb cleaner in hole where the needle sits?

I assumed you cleaned the carb when you replaced the gaskets and diaphrams. Was this not the case ? If not, yes i would remove the carb,disassemble and clean the needle seat. You can re-use your gaskets and diaphrams. Note the height of the metering lever and ensure it is the correct height when the new needle goes in.
 
I assumed you cleaned the carb when you replaced the gaskets and diaphrams. Was this not the case ? If not, yes i would remove the carb,disassemble and clean the needle seat. You can re-use your gaskets and diaphrams. Note the height of the metering lever and ensure it is the correct height when the new needle goes in.
Yes, I cleaned it good before putting the new diaphragms on. I put the new needle in and still.....nothing. I'm going to let it rest and put some gas in the chamber and see if it'll pop. The spark plug / ignition coil has a nice white spark so I don't think that is it. A little gas seems like it leaked out of the bottom near the manifold while I was trying to start. Any other advice before I stomp this thing?
 
Spray a couple squirts in the carb and see if it will try to start. When you pulled the carb apart, did you remove the high/low needles? If so, when you reinstalled the needles, did you lightly seat them, then back them off about 1 turn counterclockwise ?
 
Thank your for your attention Cedar! There's only one needle in this carb. w/o too much torque, I screwed it down sort of firm. To be honest, I didn't see any varnish on the needle I took out, but the carb cleaner did spray back and hit me in the face when I sprayed the hole that the needle sits in. I'll try loosening the screw and spray into the carb to see if that helps. It would run before I rebuilt the carb, but it would "bog down" in the cut. All of the trouble seems to have started once I "rebuilt the carb" and put my new homemade gasket on there. Thank you again for your kind attention. Cheers, Reggie
 
A few times I've messed with tiny carbs and never did get them to deliver fuel properly. You may need to pull welch plugs and run carb cleaner thru it in a parts washer for hours. The seat may be damaged and I don't know if you can fix it. I usually cry uncle and buy a new carb. Search fleabay for Partner 350 carb. Costs $6 shipped if no one else bids. I've used them on Poulans (who made your Craftsman) with good success. Check throttle and choke linkages and see if they match. Also, impulse hole - usually centered at bottom (Could be top, tho).
 
Not knowing the saw or carb, I want to mention if you made a gasket thickness doesn't matter.....what may is if there was an impulse hole in it and it is now covered up. That will need to be open to run and punp fuel into the carb.
 
Thank your for your attention Cedar! There's only one needle in this carb. w/o too much torque, I screwed it down sort of firm. To be honest, I didn't see any varnish on the needle I took out, but the carb cleaner did spray back and hit me in the face when I sprayed the hole that the needle sits in. I'll try loosening the screw and spray into the carb to see if that helps. It would run before I rebuilt the carb, but it would "bog down" in the cut. All of the trouble seems to have started once I "rebuilt the carb" and put my new homemade gasket on there. Thank you again for your kind attention. Cheers, Reggie

OK, so the carb has a fixed high speed jet and the only adjustable jet is the low speed jet. I suspect it is a Zama but you have not mentioned this. Lightly seat your low needle and back it out 1 or 1 1/2 turns. The saw should cough or try to start if it is getting fuel. As mentioned above, ensure your homemade gasket duplicates your old one and put on correctly. If the saw does not try to start, spray mix (not carb cleaner) in the carb and see if it will start and run for a few seconds. As mentioned above...it may be time for a a new carb. I have also seen those carbs unfixable.
 
I've never seen a Poulan without both L and H needles - it's possible of course, but this is a Poulan not some junky Stihl :hi:

Besides, 2000 is too early for that nonsense. I suspect one of the needles is missing, which would account for it not running, leaking fuel and getting hit in the eye with carb cleaner. A picture would help!
 
Reggie, does that carb have a threaded hole without a needle in it next to the one that does have a needle?

Chris. I do have an older Stihl 026 that has a fixed high jet carb(and I dont like it!):)
:thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:
 
Not knowing the saw or carb, I want to mention if you made a gasket thickness doesn't matter.....what may is if there was an impulse hole in it and it is now covered up. That will need to be open to run and punp fuel into the carb.
Thank you Poleman. Whenever I pull the plug out, it is soaked with gas and I can tell that it is just about flooded all the time. Maybe one important thing that I failed to mention is that I bought the saw I am trying to fix off Craigslist. The fuel lines and primer bulb were rotted out of it. I replaced those....and the saw would run, but would bog down in the cut no matter how I adjusted the carb. So.....I have another of these...a 1998 Craftsman with 18" bar. The carb in that one looks identical to the one in the 2000 model, but the 2000 model is 42cc displacement and the 1998 is 36cc. After installing new fuel lines in the older 36cc saw, I couldn't get it to work and ended up buying a chinese carb with a different fuel line config into the carb. Couldn't get that to work and ended up paying a repair guy to fix it with the Chinese Carb.....when I asked him what he did differently from me, he cited "cosmic knowledge." Anyway what I failed to mention is that I rebuilt the older 36cc carb and intstalled it in place of the original 42cc carb in the year 2000 saw (I did not realize there was a difference until yesterday.) That's when I noticed the torn gasket....which I "deduced" was the problem for it bogging down in the cut. Should I take the rebuild parts out of the 36cc carb and rebuild the 42cc carb that was originally in the saw I am having problems with and install it back in its original place? Poleman, I think I cut that gasket right, but if the impulse holes are slightly covered by the gasket sliding downward, would that prevent it from starting? I mean I can even get a chirp out of it. Thanks in advance, Reggie.
 
Thank you Poleman. Whenever I pull the plug out, it is soaked with gas and I can tell that it is just about flooded all the time. Maybe one important thing that I failed to mention is that I bought the saw I am trying to fix off Craigslist. The fuel lines and primer bulb were rotted out of it. I replaced those....and the saw would run, but would bog down in the cut no matter how I adjusted the carb. So.....I have another of these...a 1998 Craftsman with 18" bar. The carb in that one looks identical to the one in the 2000 model, but the 2000 model is 42cc displacement and the 1998 is 36cc. After installing new fuel lines in the older 36cc saw, I couldn't get it to work and ended up buying a chinese carb with a different fuel line config into the carb. Couldn't get that to work and ended up paying a repair guy to fix it with the Chinese Carb.....when I asked him what he did differently from me, he cited "cosmic knowledge." Anyway what I failed to mention is that I rebuilt the older 36cc carb and intstalled it in place of the original 42cc carb in the year 2000 saw (I did not realize there was a difference until yesterday.) That's when I noticed the torn gasket....which I "deduced" was the problem for it bogging down in the cut. Should I take the rebuild parts out of the 36cc carb and rebuild the 42cc carb that was originally in the saw I am having problems with and install it back in its original place? Poleman, I think I cut that gasket right, but if the impulse holes are slightly covered by the gasket sliding downward, would that prevent it from starting? I mean I can even get a chirp out of it. Thanks in advance, Reggie.
How are your fuel lines connected - specifically the purge/primer bulb? A picture of the carb, screws and fuel lines would really help to diagnose what is going on.
 
Reggie, If your plug is soaking wet (w/out you spraying gas in the carb) it is pumping fuel, maybe too much. Put a picture up so we are not "shooting in the dark".
 
It sounds like your getting impulse to operate pump (ie wet plug). I think I would do as you suall the kit into theggest and ins original carb if it is the Sam series and would fit.
My thoughts now since the flooding issue is a dirty or high needle or agjustment.

I'd double check for spark also....
 
You mentioned carbs and primer bulbs....are the routed correctly??
I have a good white spark. I had the needle "screwed down." I just raised it a half turn. The pics will show all of the gas that's welling up in the cavity where the fuel lines are. Attaching pics of everything. I took pics, reduced them down to 50K and I get an error message when I try to upload them. This is a Buffalo Wild Wings Commercial!
 
Poulan routing...Pic 1 - tiny .08" line (I really HATE this tiny line) goes thru tiny hole into tank and connects with fuel pickup/filter. The bigger line is 3/32" (I like that size) It goes from LONG (or can be FAT) purge bulb connector goes into tank an inch or so.
Pic 2 - shows 3/32" line (A proper line that I really like) behind black screw shroud. That line goes from carb to short purge bulb connector.

Poulan fuel line routing 1.jpg

Poulan fuel line routing 2.jpg
 
Back
Top