SawTroll
Information Collector
Other way around....:msp_wink:
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Other way around....:msp_wink:
Why pulling the tank?
Checking the muffler bolts is normal maintenance - as listed in the operator manual.
I was speaking of the 4 crank case bolts that fasten the cylinder to the engine cradle.
M
moody
Guest
That can be done without tank being removed. But it's not ideal for sure. No reason for fuss. So anyone have anything they can add? I know I haven't mentioned everything here.
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
No...............I didn't forget it, I omitted it because it was never imported into the US by Tilton. :msp_tongue:
To clear up a wee bit of confusion some may still have on the 350/2150:
EARLY 350/2150 used the same open port piston and cylinder as the 351/2149.
LATER 350/2150 used the same cylinder as the 353/2152. But the plastic case saws used the dished piston vs the flat top piston used in the metal cased saws.
And of course, the "omitted", but not "forgotten" 2147 was the Jonsered version of the original 346.
One other thing that could drive you nuts at some point: Early starters used a different starter spring and pulley than the later ones and they will not interchange. On the Huskys, this can be distinguished by the extra vertical ribs in the starter housing, but there is no visual difference on the Jonnys that I'm aware of. So, you can't just say "I need a spring for a 346" and be sure you are getting the correct one.
Air filters also have an "early vs late" change on the metal case saws. The early saws used the same twist on filter as their plastic cousins, and the later saws used the clip on filter, and they also will not interchange.
There are also differences in oil pumps and pump drive gears. And with them, there are corresponding differences in clutch drums, as the drum obviously is what is driving the pump gear. Some mixing may appear to fit initially, but will at some point tear up the drive gear. The 340/345 with the non-adjustable oiler uses a gear with a metal ring on it driving a plastic geared piston pump. (these parts are still used on the 445/450). There is no rim style drum that correctly fits this gear, but some guys will rack their brains trying to do this so they can get their project saw to run 3/8 or whatever. Plus the pump gears for the metal cased saws have a different depth than those on the plastic saws. I'm not trying to make this sound complicated, but my point here is that life is a lot easier if you just stick with whatever set up is on the saw to start with.
SawTroll
Information Collector
You are doing very well Spike, and this thread is worth saving, for referance!
M
moody
Guest
I agree some things are better left alone on these saws.
M
moody
Guest
You are doing very well Spike, and this thread is worth saving, for referance!
Obviously he's added more to this thread than I could have. And its nice having him chime in. Sorry for not having more and better information up.
SawTroll
Information Collector
M
moody
Guest
You did well as well, good idea for a thread!
I think informational threads would cut back on question threads. Im no expert but I know enough to be dangerous
AuerX
constantly confused
Informational threads rock. 
AuerX
constantly confused
FWIW, The Non-Adjustable Oiler on the 340 can be replaced with the Adjustable oiler from the 350. At least I think so.
My 340 seems to have all the provisions for it including the notch in the bottom to access the oiler adjustment screw.
Now the inconveniently located front mounted chain tensioner on the 340....I do not know if there is a cure for that.....
Eric
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old 040
Addicted to ArboristSite
anyone know if a clutch assembly from 357 would fit on the 340/345/350 saws?................:confused2:
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
yeah i didnt take it like that either, i just wondered, what you meant, as sometimes i dont understand things correct, due to my language skills. So sorry.
Surely, 346 cyl equipped 2150 was far angrier, the only thing it might loose to stock 2150 jug, was possibly when felling trees. But felling small trees, limbing and removing branches, was quicker to do with 346 cylinder.
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
I had a clutch drum from oe346xp in my 2150, as i wanted to have 8 teeth chain sprocket, instead of 2150´s stock clutch drums fixed 7 teeth. The 346 has BIT different splines(?) driving the oil punp but it WILL work & fit. Not a perfect, gapless fit but my 2150 has been use by my buddy, as daily basis, for like....2 months now, and the oil pump still works like a clock.
mainewoods
Addicted to ArboristSite
Informational threads like this one are exactly the kind of thing the average homeowner is looking for. Once they have digested the basic (and not so basic) info, they can ask much more informed questions. Knowing the workings of a chainsaw first should allow a homeowner to ask an intelligent question later. I hope there are more threads on the most common homeowner used saws to come. You are doing a great service to the "average Joe" and to guys who provide the answers.:msp_thumbup: ( I hate these symbols ,but you fellers deserve one)
M
moody
Guest
They all share the same case. So if you put the time in you can make it adjustable.
M
moody
Guest
Nope
apn73
ArboristSite Operative
I've been looking into these and I can't remember, what does the "S" stand for at the end of the model number of a Jonsered? Is there a reason to buy them or not to buy them when compared to standard models?
Thanks,
Adam.
Thanks,
Adam.
SawTroll
Information Collector
An "S" doesn't make sense on a Jonsered, but a "C" means the saw has a catalytic muffler (that needs to be changed out)....
apn73
ArboristSite Operative
For instance, there is a current model available from Jonsered called the CS 2250 S, it's on the US website, there used to be a CS 2240 S. I'm looking at a 2141 S on craigslist.
