Husqvarna Autotube carbs = more parts to fix? ~$500 20" saw recommendations

[triktor4411]

Hi, I have a ~$200 20" 50cc Poulan Pro I use for work now and then, not often, but when I need it, it doesn't like to start or run well. I think the carb just needs to be cleaned (it'll eventually start and idle but needs the L and H about 3 turns out which is way too much and then I can't get any setting make it rev up and cut good) and will try cleaning the carb, but also I currently fell in a rabbit hole deciding which new more-reliable 20" saw to get, and keep the poulan as a back up. I think it's better to replace the $20 carb since I don't have an ultrasonic and sometimes small carbs you can't actually perfectly clean all the tunnels etc and it ends up still not running well after a rebuild kit and all that cleaning.

I have two makita 4 cycle backpack blowers and love them, many hours on them and not a single issue. I mostly got them because they're 4 cycle is cleaner, but I know now Makita stuff is excellent and reliable.
I'm considering Makita EA5600FRGG for around $450 because of this.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...V4DizAB0xAguSEAQYAyABEgL42vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I run canola oil for bar and must have something with adjustable oiler since veg oil runs thinner than normal. Makita has this. The only thing I don't like about the Makita is the handle is plastic. I just don't understand why manufacturers save ~$6 on production instead of using metal which is more durable, I can imagine people piling stuff on their saws in storage or something and weakening the handle, yes the saw should do the work but you do have to push on that handle sometimes so imagine if it snapped.

I can't really justify a pro saw with a metal bar for around $700.

There are some 20" Husqvarnas for around $575 with metal bar like the 545 Mark 2 and I get %10 off at Lowe's.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-...VMDizAB0RcAp0EAQYASABEgKYsvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Husqvarna 545 Mark 2 is considered professional and has an adjustable oiler and metal handle. Only thing I don't like is how complicated there new Auto Tune carb is. There's no option to L and H screws, it's supposed to auto compensate for cold, humidity, etc even debris in the carb and run well but I would hate to have to work on that carb considering how complex it is, I think it even has a generator, thermostat, and circuit board, and a new one is about $150 to just swap it out. I think chainsaws are so dusty that carb work is inevitable. The makita carb is also about $125 but less complex and maybe cleaning it would work. They both have screw down tight-fitting paper air filters which hopefully keep more debris out than these stupid spring clamp screen types like my Poulan has.

A lot of the new professional ~$750 Husqvarnas also have the Auto Tune carb. I'm sure it works great at first, just not sure about longevity and complexity of working on it.

I can get an older non-Mark 2 545 for around $550 new but is showing out of stock and can't find elsewhere, has metal handle, but unsure if oiler is adjustable. Manual doesn't say yes or no, it shows a screw for it but is a multi-model PDF and doesn't mention at all how to adjust it. I think it is adjustable but might not be able to find one for sale as new.

20" 46cc Remington RM4620 is only $199 including a case, adjustable oiler, and I'm pretty sure the handle is even metal.
Lowe's also has this Craftsman for $199 which is identical as the Remington, case and all.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-S205-20-in-46-cc-2-cycle-Gas-Chainsaw/1000601365I just doubt it'll start and run as well as a ~$550 Husqvarna or the Makita or be more reliable and the better saws are better at displacing chips vs feeding them into the sprocket area that plugs oil and reduces performance, plus I saw a video that the carb gets dusty as heck and he didn't have many hours on it and has a screen type filter.



On eBay or Craigslist/Facebook I can get a good used pro saw with metal handle and adjustable oiler for $550, but I'm done with buying anything used or even refurbished unless it's something more expensive like a lawn aerator or big mower worth the risk to save ~$1,500.
Even refurb I've had many problems with and you don't know if the person who returned it didn't even mix 2 cycle oil or something like that.


I guess my question is if I should trust the new Husqvarna Auto Tune carb. As much as I hate to play with the L and H and Throttle/Idle screws, not having them at all seems strange and now I understand they can be an advantage for cold weather possibly. For cold weather the Makita has a piece outside of the air filter you flip to let more/less air in to compensate for cold weather. But the Husqvarna also requires a ~$20 cold weather kit/cover.

Other than that, about the Auto Tune carbs, l'll take suggestions for something else with metal handle, adjustable oiler and is a great reliable saw.
Thanks.
take care.


EDIT, I mean yes, now checking youtube for Husqvarna Autotune, there's even a diagnosis software it needs, it seems way overkill, F all that.
I think I'll just get the Makita or something and I doubt the handle would snap but would be nice if was metal, might be able to swap it with the metal from their pro models.

​

 

[Timber MacFallen]

That was...a long post. I did read it all though.

I'll keep this simple. If you don't want a computer controlled carb and it needs to be high quality get an Echo saw or a Makita. The Makita isn't really a Makita though- it's a Dolmar. Makita bought the company years ago. Dolmar is a German company that makes top grade saws.

You picked the wrong Makita saw though-you want this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...RCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-304325211-_-300565849-_-N&

From Echo (a Japanese company) you'd want the CS-501P which is a similar price point: https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chainsaws/CS-501P

Honestly though, it sounds like you want to keep the price down and have something reliable. I'd suggest just taking a strong look at an Echo Timber Wolf CS-590 for $400 and call it a day: https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chainsaws/CS-590-Timber-Wolf

Good luck!

 

[outdoortype]

FWIW-
I own both the 545 mark2 and the Echo Timberwolf. The 545 has about 20 tanks run time and the Timberwolf has 11. The main question is, what size and type of wood are you cutting? Are you considering the 20" bar for reach, or greater wood diameter? If you're cutting wood that requires a 20" bar, you need 59cc! That being said, My 545 mark 2 has been flawless so far and has impressive power for it's size and handling characteristics. The Timberwolf is also fantastic-so far. It's just bigger, heavier, and better suited towards wood that's 14" and above. In my opinion, the Echo Timberwolf is the best saw for the price in it's range. Whatever you do, buy from a local outdoor equipment dealer, not a box store or E-bay.

 

[sean donato]

I'm gonna be honest, I skimmed through that book. Autotune/mtronic doesnt really give much grief these days. And ita been around since 2012ish so it's not new by any standards. I'd personally take an echo over the makita/dolly. If your dead set on a 20" bar something in the 55 to 60cc range would be better (imo) I think the echo 590 would be close to your $500.00 ish price range.

 

[triktor4411]

hmm, sorry long again,
thanks for the replies,
I sort of skimmed over Echos for some reason I was thinking they've sort of become like Husqvarna's lower-grade stuff which IMHO isn't anything special. I will check Echo out further though.

Type of wood varies, rarely but sometimes it's mature trees that fell. I prefer my 10" pole saw usually for being able to stand and move around quickly if the wood's small enough but sometimes I do need 20" for larger trunk bucking, I prefer just one size saw to be oversized most of the time. I don't need to cut quick with larger than 50cc.

MacFalllen, why would you suggest that 50cc makita over the 56cc one which I think is also newer? Waiting for Makita's reply for why they label the EA5600FRGG Farm/Ranch but the one you linked says Commercial. And why would they make a whole nother model if the only difference between these 20" 50ccs is that one includes a bar cover. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/EA5000PRFL and https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/EA5000PRGG.

Makita site does say what you linked has magnesium housing but the one I was considering doesn't, and I'm waiting to hear if it's also magnesium. The Magnesium one doesn't say it has a 'Stratified Air Scavenging carb for high cutting performance with improved fuel efficiency' if it's even much a difference from the other.


I just repaired the Poulan, replaced the carb but also found some very odd problem with the fuel line, only the 1 of the 3, the one that leads to the fuel filter has a hard inner line that fused to the filter and I kept pulling it thinking it was some sort of gunk but realized it's double walled and never seen that even in all the old crap I've taken apart. Replaced with Tygon should run perfect tomorrow when I can run it, but realized I can't keep this saw as back up since it doesn't have bar oil flow adjustment I need to run thin vegetable oil and usually cutting in hot weather, I may sell it and get that $200 Remington or Craftsman as back up since they have oil adjustment, metal bar (really where it screws in is probably plastic though and sort of negates the whole purpose IMHO). The only problems I see with those though is parts availability later on and possibly hard to start even though I stabilize everything and run it at least every 8 months, but after repairing the Poulan I don't see too much that can go wrong with a cheaper saw, keep a few $15 spare carbs and sprockets in case they become obsolete and if anything else breaks I can just part it out on ebay and break even and get something new and improved.

But now that I write it out, I like the husqvarnas echo stihl more, even lower end stuff because I know I'll always be able to find any part for almost any model, often used and great price for instance a chain brake or something. That's one advantage over makita whose parts are more rare and sometimes dealer-monopoly price, I got their 4 stroke backpacks just because I love 4 stroke is cleaner and learned they are very very excellent machines and put $0 in parts into each over past few years of heavy use, but I know that parts could be priced a bit sour.

As for cold weather, Husqvarna commercial manuals and others are saying cloth the air intake or use the kit that restricts air flow, so maybe that's all I need to do with a cheaper saw that doesn't have computerized or more automatic carb stuff, I might end up actually getting two identical used ~$250-300 Husqvarna/Echo/Stihl saws off ebay that are like $500 new, some spare $15 aftermarket carbs (never ever had an issue with those carbs) because I think most problems would be carb related and run like a new saw for $15 more, any slight hiccup or hard start the saw might have and I'll replace the carb and hope it's all good. Usually a commercial/$500 range saw the previous owner didn't do something bad like run it on straight gas, pistons and rings etc I don't delve that deep into repairs...

CORRECTION, Auto Tune doesn't compensate for a dirty carb, just dirty filter. I keep em clean.

After checking youtube vids for Husqvarna Auto Tune, yes at least 1 guy gave a long term review and said never had a problem and well used, other than that it doesn't seem anything special if keep saw clean, it doesn't compensate for below freezing I may need, and I don't have high elevation (i'd bore it out i.e change the jet for $5 if needed to). I'd rather a non autotune commercial Husqvarna that can find $15 carbs for AND at least have the L and H and T options that autotune does not.
Autotune can be a great thing, tries to always give you max power with no damage depending on temperate, ethanol content and maybe if you have to eye ball 50:1 now and then and play it safe with a tad more oil than you'd think, etc, but I don't think I really need it.

Last thing I want to do is connect the chainsaw to the computer, I'd maybe rather just swap the carb for $150~

 

[sean donato]

So I have a 2012 husqvarna 562xp, wile back it got a new top end, was just wore out. Its still running the original carb, it may be the exception rather then the rule, but I've literally had zero issues with the autotune. Regular maintenance goes far. I also cant say I've worries about the hot weather or cold weather. I too was skeptical of how they would run, so when I got a few years on the saw, I bought a spare carb and had it programmed. To this day its sitting on the shelf collecting dust.
regarding the different saws mentioned, typically most of us will reccomend a pro level saw, which besides better features, typically make more power for a given displacement and last longer. So looking strictly as displacement ad more power can be deceiving.
Cheers with whatever you end up with, echo, stihl, husqy, and makita all make some great saws.

 

[cuinrearview]

I think I have advice to share but I fell asleep reading these books. Cliff note the **** dude!

 

[cookies]

fix the lines on the poulan, put the original carb back on it and i bet it runs fine, happens to mine every few years

 

[computeruser]

Op, you’re overthinking this. And contacting Makita to ask why they count one saw as “farm and ranch” and another one not?! Who the heck cares why they do that? It has nothing, NOTHING to do with the saw’s build quality. It is a marketing and product segmentation gimmick. There are “farm” saws with plastic chassis and clamshell cylinders out there (Husqvarna 455/460, for example) and ones without (Husqvarna 555, a great saw by all accounts). Yet they are categorized as being the same. They aren’t.

Echo 590/600/620 get good reviews and are old school simple. Echo 501 seems to be well liked too.

Dolmar/Makita 5105 or whatever they call it now is a great little saw. Makita/Dolmar 6100 or whatever they call it now is also well respected.

In the end, if you buy a quality saw and feed it properly and care for it well, it will give you good service. If you buy box store consumer junk, you will be getting what you paid for. This applies to the proposed purchase of a Remington or Craftsman saw. It’s throwing good money after bad. You ought to buy a used Stihl 026 Pro for $250 if that’s your budget. That way you will get a simple and reliable saw that is easy to service and will last near on to forever if you do your part.

 

[Timber MacFallen]

MacFalllen, why would you suggest that 50cc makita over the 56cc one which I think is also newer? Waiting for Makita's reply for why they label the EA5600FRGG Farm/Ranch but the one you linked says Commercial. And why would they make a whole nother model if the only difference between these 20" 50ccs is that one includes a bar cover. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/EA5000PRFL and https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/EA5000PRGG.

Sometimes less is more. In this case you're getting Dolmar/Makitas best saw with a 50cc engine as opposed to their slightly larger engined but down spec'd 56cc model.

If dealer support and availability is important to you though then forget the Makita/Dolmar. They're wonderful saws and the company has a rich history (arguably they invented the chainsaw in 1927) but dealer support is fairly non-existent.

Interesting note- I purchased my Husqvarna from the shop featured in that video clip with the computer. Ashokan Turf & Timber in Shokan NY. Best Husky dealer in the Northeast as far as I'm concerned. The owner collects chainsaws and has decades of experience. If you're in North Jersey you might consider making the drive there. You can get $50-150 off MSRP on various models and get the exact bar and chain combo you want.

Strongly consider the Echo though-they're the Toyotas of the chainsaw world. One of my Echo's is forty years old and the fuel and oil lines are still in good shape and the points ignition is still working flawlessly. Starts on second or third pull after it's been sitting a couple weeks.

My newest saw though is a 550xp mk2 with a 20" narrow kerf bar. Very very fast through wood for a 50cc.

 

[ChasSC]

hmm, sorry long again,
thanks for the replies,
I sort of skimmed over Echos for some reason I was thinking they've sort of become like Husqvarna's lower-grade stuff which IMHO isn't anything special. I will check Echo out further though.

Here's my long post, sorry JMHO

I think these long post, are you just trying to justify and convince yourself what or if to buy, sounds like you don't need a new saw, just get your Poulan running. I have an Echo CS-590, almost 60cc (59.8) saw, and it will run a 24" bar, I have one, but mostly use a 20". I bought it when my Poulan went down and I had to rebuild the carb right in the middle of a pruning job (5 trees 8-10" limbs).

The one comment I will make, already been said multiple times, Buy from an Independent Dealer, you won't get it serviced at Home Depot or Fleabay, Watch for their yearly sales events, last summer you got 3 extra chains with purchase of a new saw. Oh yeah, my dealer threw in an Echo case, I bought it 2 months before the chain deal. ECHO PROMOTION LINK 15% off select units right now
Echo also has a 5 year homeowner warranty. Just food for thought, used saws will lose that warranty.

PS......Bar chain oil cost $12/gal. The Husky has an additive (tackifier), not sure if it's in Echo oil, that is really sticky and stays on your bar, Vegetable/Canola oil slings off the end of your chain. While all oil reduces friction, I can testify to Husky Oil

From Echo:
ECHO's Bar and Chain Oil (6459012 and 6459006) is special blend of lubricants and detergents that help to maximize chainsaw lubricity while reducing heat caused from bar and chain friction. Special additives assist in minimizing resin build-up while our special formulation facilitates chip and dust removal to keep your saw and chain operating at peak performance.

From Husqvarna:
Husqvarna X-Guard Premium Bar and Chain Oil has been designed to provide ultimate protection to cutting equipment while operating a chainsaw. Formulated from virgin base stock oils, Husqvarna’s X-Guard lubricant reduces friction and wear on cutting bars and chains, extending the life of cutting equipment. X-Guard’s reduced sling formulation includes a premium tackifier additive, which ensures the lubrication is maintained on the cutting equipment for optimal performance. Husqvarna’s X-Guard All-Season Formula provides superior cutting equipment protection while operating a chainsaw in any condition.

GETTING OFF MY SOAPBOX NOW

 

[triktor4411]

F this poulan.. I changed the carb to a new aftermarket one, replaced a bad fuel line, new fuel filter, and it WON'T EVEN FIRE WITH STARTING FLUID!
I have a spark tester and it's getting good spark. I've fixed many small engines and never had this happen.
I think it's flooding. When it gave me problems on the job last week (this thing sorta F'd my whole week up) it was dripping out the exhaust. Not sure if because trying to pull it so many times while choked or what.
It also seemed to seize up last week as if the starter cord was stuck but it wasn't and seemed to be the cylinder jammed, had to spin the flywheel with the two ends of a pliers handle, then it stayed unstuck and hasn't happened again until just now trying the new carb it froze up for a second but is free now and I'm letting it sit with throttle butterfly propped open and spark plug out hopefully it needs more than ~10 mins to dry out because that didn't work before.
I'm gonna hopefully fix this thing then I'm selling it and I DO note this stuff in description BTW I would never pass a sketchy-running machine onto others as 'EXCELLENT CONDITION' without mentioned what happened before.

Anyway, I'm about %80 set on one of those Makitas once I hear back why the newer one is 56cc but might not have magnesium case like the older 50cc, to see which if any is better. COMPUTERUSER, Yes I agree Farm and Ranch VS Commercial I thought was just marketing, they could have written it either way for both, and their real commercial ones are like 79cc powerhead only (with metal handle). I'm sort of past the whole metal handle thing, there's more to worry about when sawing and if you have to press on the handle that hard something is wrong and I do not pile shjt on my tools and might build a lil wood box for it if I can't find a fitting case. Also the ones with metal handle like the Husq 545 Mark 2 might attach to plastic anyway so if it gets banged around a bit it could detach there and not be noticed.


I dunno what it is with chainsaws that they are so hard to start and keep RPMs optimal in different conditions compared to a string trimmer or something usually you just set it once and it'll work in cold/hot, maybe because I think the carb is trying to do more than a regular 2 stroke string trimmer to make starting easier, possibly automatic air purge is why it has two sort of throttle body butterflies. IDK, I think the Makita will serve me well in hot or cold, and I'll probably get a back up used ~$350 good saw stihl/echo/husq
good day

 

[cuinrearview]

Maybe blame the ****** parts you threw on it long taller? Or the even worse fuel you let sit in it. Or the heat fed back into it from the chain you didn't sharpen?

Homeowner's manifesto.

 

[triktor4411]

the fuel is good, has stabilizer and good penzoil or something 2 stroke mixed in, not more than a month old I'd say. If anything there's a bit too much oil in it, better more than less. EDIT, yes better more than less but too much oil can foul the spark plug (still doesn't explain why even though I cleaned spark plug and put a good amount of starter fluid in combustion chamber it won't even at least burn through that) but anyway, I'm gonna drain all the fuel and exactly measure 50:1 (or 40:1 whatever it says) and go from there.

I think it's flooded bad from trying to pull it so many times, with choke on or off, it did pop a few times but won't run.


EDIT, the Poulan is shot, busted ring, when cranking it upside down with plug removed to try and dry the flooding, I then noticed 1 spec of metal and hoped it was maybe from around the threading some cheap Poulan manufacturing defect or something, then I really noticed a bunch of metal specs about 1/4 size of a grain of rice totaling about 4 or 5 grains of rice so I'd say the piston ring is shot. With youtube I'm sure I can fix it if can find the ring cheap. I can keep this as back up and just use regular bar oil instead of veg since I'll barely use it anyway as a backup.

I definitely didn't run it with too little oil or bad gas to cause this, I must had adjusted the H screw too high or something when I had it working great last week but then gave problems. I sound like a good candidate for Auto Tune now lol, but to be honest I don't think I really had it screaming super high RPM but no I didn't check it with a tach, but also maybe the carb was dirty because I had it running fine but the L and H needed to be like 3 spins out, not 1.25 like recommended, (the aftermarket carb though also the L was like 3 turns out, the H was fully seated), so maybe even if RPMs weren't screaming high, still having the L and H unscrewed so much and possibly a dirty carb caused it to blow.


Tonight/Tomorrow I'll buy either that ~$400-$500 echo everyone keeps suggesting, a ~$450 Husqvarna Rancher or the $580 545 Mark 2 with Auto Tune, but I'm kinda set on that $450 Makita.
I have to look past the fact that most don't have a metal handle I Really wanted but also know that it might screw into plastic anyways.

thanks for the suggestions and reading my longwritten posts. take care

 

[triktor4411]

All right, friends, I've definitely decided to buy at least one 20" 46cc Craftsman S205 for just $199 (and I get %10 of Lowe's), at least as a back up saw
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-S205-20-in-46-cc-2-cycle-Gas-Chainsaw/1000601365
I might just get two of these and call it a day for $400 total.

I honestly think if taken care of this saw will last as long as and perform almost as good as a $400 Husqvarna 450-rancher-range saw or Echo etc, some of which don't even have adjustable bar oil. The craftsman (same as the Remington and is make by MTD and parts are available and should be for plenty of years, and worst case scenario if something's not available I can part the saw out on eBay and break even and just get another cheap saw). The Echos don't even have a primer bulb, has decompression valve but I just don't understand why they wouldn't include a primer bulb, yes googling primer bulb purpose is to help start engine and chainsaws are notoriously hard to start and most don't have decompression valve but I'm guessing primer bulb helps starting even more (decompression valve might just help the rope pull easier).

As mentioned the Craftsman has a metal handle which I like but yea it might only screw into plastic, has adjustable oiler is a must if using vegetable oil. Plenty power and I don't really like a super fast saw, spare chain, hard case, it's the same as the Poulan I blew up - just have to etch a note into the cover to not run RPMs too high !, I have tachometers but I think I might just tune it by ear - keep a short vid in phone of it max revving at factory setting and use for reference if need to adjust it.

I actually like Husqvarna's Autotune now that I did more research on it. But not sure if it's worth it for me personally to get one of their better saws since I only saw a handful times a year usually when a large tree falls or is easily / clear to fell without climbing and must be condemned. ALL the higher end Husqvarnas seem to have auto tune, I worry if it gets wet or something but I just don't think I need to spend ~$600 on one of the better Husqvarnas I can get THREE more Craftsman for that price, I just worry about winter starts with the Craftsman but it should be fine.

Another thing is that I work all over, I'm not always in the woods or something and I don't want to be constantly carrying a $600 around by my side or keeping my eye on it or stashing it somewhere temporarily because I can imagine a chainsaw being an easy target for theft since it's small. $600 saw stolen I'd be infuriated, still even a $200 one though and I'm calling the police instantly without no hesitation to not press charges if the thief is caught.

The Makita I think has a good engine, I just don't like the bar oiler is not fully adjustable, it has 4 clicks instead, and can't be fully closed from what it sounds like, and I'd like to fully close it for storage so it doesn't leak. I asked makita if it could be altered possibly to not click on settings and they just said they don't recommend altering anything. Not crazy about the plastic handle either. Again, I can get TWO craftsman for the price of the Makita plus have $50 to spend on spare chains and felling wedges I need.
Plus spare parts are CHEAP for the Craftsman compared to moderately priced Makita and Husqvarna.

I was actually eying some of those unbranded Chinese eBay $90 ~60cc 20" saws, there are parts available on ebay for them cheap too like $8 carbs and $3 air filters but they have no model # and are titled as something like 'Chinese 58cc saw part' etc and there are so many that it can be confusing if need a part, so for $100 I'll take the Craftsman plus the case and spare chain!

For now I'm just getting the Craftsman and probably two of them and if I run into starting/running problems (after making sure I don't F up the L and H Screws) then I'll consider a better Makita or Husqvarna like the 545 Mark 2 which looks like a really well-made saw with plenty metal and handle seems to screw into more metal (hopefully not just barbed-type female inserts set in plastic though.

I can use the money saved by the Craftsman to soon get a better pole saw and powerhead set up than the Ryobi I've been using heavily for years, which always ran good but sometimes when using TWO extension poles it doesn't want to engage the pole saw or hedge trimmer, plus the bar oiler for the pole saw sucks regardless if using veg oil or regular bar oil and it can be a bit picky to start sometimes (need hold throttle down etc).

happy sawing
take care.

 

[r black]

F this poulan.. I changed the carb to a new aftermarket one, replaced a bad fuel line, new fuel filter, and it WON'T EVEN FIRE WITH STARTING FLUID!
I have a spark tester and it's getting good spark. I've fixed many small engines and never had this happen.
I think it's flooding. When it gave me problems on the job last week (this thing sorta F'd my whole week up) it was dripping out the exhaust. Not sure if because trying to pull it so many times while choked or what.
It also seemed to seize up last week as if the starter cord was stuck but it wasn't and seemed to be the cylinder jammed, had to spin the flywheel with the two ends of a pliers handle, then it stayed unstuck and hasn't happened again until just now trying the new carb it froze up for a second but is free now and I'm letting it sit with throttle butterfly propped open and spark plug out hopefully it needs more than ~10 mins to dry out because that didn't work before.
I'm gonna hopefully fix this thing then I'm selling it and I DO note this stuff in description BTW I would never pass a sketchy-running machine onto others as 'EXCELLENT CONDITION' without mentioned what happened before.

Anyway, I'm about %80 set on one of those Makitas once I hear back why the newer one is 56cc but might not have magnesium case like the older 50cc, to see which if any is better. COMPUTERUSER, Yes I agree Farm and Ranch VS Commercial I thought was just marketing, they could have written it either way for both, and their real commercial ones are like 79cc powerhead only (with metal handle). I'm sort of past the whole metal handle thing, there's more to worry about when sawing and if you have to press on the handle that hard something is wrong and I do not pile shjt on my tools and might build a lil wood box for it if I can't find a fitting case. Also the ones with metal handle like the Husq 545 Mark 2 might attach to plastic anyway so if it gets banged around a bit it could detach there and not be noticed.


I dunno what it is with chainsaws that they are so hard to start and keep RPMs optimal in different conditions compared to a string trimmer or something usually you just set it once and it'll work in cold/hot, maybe because I think the carb is trying to do more than a regular 2 stroke string trimmer to make starting easier, possibly automatic air purge is why it has two sort of throttle body butterflies. IDK, I think the Makita will serve me well in hot or cold, and I'll probably get a back up used ~$350 good saw stihl/echo/husq
good day

STARTING FLUID .......... ....

 

[computeruser]

As I read this thread, I just scratch my head. Using a Craftsman saw on the job? I still say a used 026 would be a way wiser choice.

 

[r black]

or one of those Damb computer controlled contraptions... like the ms261 , 550 mkII ............there real pos's that get used all day every day ......

 

[TBS]

All right, friends, I've definitely decided to buy at least one 20" 46cc Craftsman S205 for just $199 (and I get %10 of Lowe's), at least as a back up saw
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-S205-20-in-46-cc-2-cycle-Gas-Chainsaw/1000601365
I might just get two of these and call it a day for $400 total.

I honestly think if taken care of this saw will last as long as and perform almost as good as a $400 Husqvarna 450-rancher-range saw or Echo etc, some of which don't even have adjustable bar oil. The craftsman (same as the Remington and is make by MTD and parts are available and should be for plenty of years, and worst case scenario if something's not available I can part the saw out on eBay and break even and just get another cheap saw). The Echos don't even have a primer bulb, has decompression valve but I just don't understand why they wouldn't include a primer bulb, yes googling primer bulb purpose is to help start engine and chainsaws are notoriously hard to start and most don't have decompression valve but I'm guessing primer bulb helps starting even more (decompression valve might just help the rope pull easier).

As mentioned the Craftsman has a metal handle which I like but yea it might only screw into plastic, has adjustable oiler is a must if using vegetable oil. Plenty power and I don't really like a super fast saw, spare chain, hard case, it's the same as the Poulan I blew up - just have to etch a note into the cover to not run RPMs too high !, I have tachometers but I think I might just tune it by ear - keep a short vid in phone of it max revving at factory setting and use for reference if need to adjust it.

I actually like Husqvarna's Autotune now that I did more research on it. But not sure if it's worth it for me personally to get one of their better saws since I only saw a handful times a year usually when a large tree falls or is easily / clear to fell without climbing and must be condemned. ALL the higher end Husqvarnas seem to have auto tune, I worry if it gets wet or something but I just don't think I need to spend ~$600 on one of the better Husqvarnas I can get THREE more Craftsman for that price, I just worry about winter starts with the Craftsman but it should be fine.

Another thing is that I work all over, I'm not always in the woods or something and I don't want to be constantly carrying a $600 around by my side or keeping my eye on it or stashing it somewhere temporarily because I can imagine a chainsaw being an easy target for theft since it's small. $600 saw stolen I'd be infuriated, still even a $200 one though and I'm calling the police instantly without no hesitation to not press charges if the thief is caught.

The Makita I think has a good engine, I just don't like the bar oiler is not fully adjustable, it has 4 clicks instead, and can't be fully closed from what it sounds like, and I'd like to fully close it for storage so it doesn't leak. I asked makita if it could be altered possibly to not click on settings and they just said they don't recommend altering anything. Not crazy about the plastic handle either. Again, I can get TWO craftsman for the price of the Makita plus have $50 to spend on spare chains and felling wedges I need.
Plus spare parts are CHEAP for the Craftsman compared to moderately priced Makita and Husqvarna.

I was actually eying some of those unbranded Chinese eBay $90 ~60cc 20" saws, there are parts available on ebay for them cheap too like $8 carbs and $3 air filters but they have no model # and are titled as something like 'Chinese 58cc saw part' etc and there are so many that it can be confusing if need a part, so for $100 I'll take the Craftsman plus the case and spare chain!

For now I'm just getting the Craftsman and probably two of them and if I run into starting/running problems (after making sure I don't F up the L and H Screws) then I'll consider a better Makita or Husqvarna like the 545 Mark 2 which looks like a really well-made saw with plenty metal and handle seems to screw into more metal (hopefully not just barbed-type female inserts set in plastic though.

I can use the money saved by the Craftsman to soon get a better pole saw and powerhead set up than the Ryobi I've been using heavily for years, which always ran good but sometimes when using TWO extension poles it doesn't want to engage the pole saw or hedge trimmer, plus the bar oiler for the pole saw sucks regardless if using veg oil or regular bar oil and it can be a bit picky to start sometimes (need hold throttle down etc).

happy sawing
take care.

Nothing wrong with the craftsman saws if you have the proper tool to tune the carburetor. Starting fluid doesn't do anything good for a 2 stroke, it's actually just as bad as running straight gasoline.

 

[newforest]

My first AutoTune is soon to crack 1000 hours of use. It already would have but I wore out the brake on it before anything else so it is laid up in a very busy saw shop for a minute. I guess I did manage to get the teeth on the rim to fall off completely once too.

The more saws you buy, the more you will realize the pro grade saws are actually cheaper.