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Husqvarna E 142.. not starting..please help

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by mtj39565, Oct 24, 2007.

  1. mtj39565

    mtj39565 New Member

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    It ran great until just recently.
    Under full power, engine sputtered out and now won't start.
    It has a new plug, air filter is clean, clean fuel/oil. Still won't start.

    I can see it's getting fuel. I took carb out and it looks clean.

    We also have a Homelite Timberman 45, won't start either, but it seems to have much greater compression when you try to pull start it.

    My brother opened the Husky and you can see there is a good deal of scoring on the cylinder. The Homelite is shiny/oily/new looking. Is this the difference in the amount of compression compared with the Husky?

    So, can we get an engine rebuild kit? I've seen a carb kit online, but that's not needed.

    If we can get an engine kit, would anyone know of a part number? Anyother ideas would be appreciated as well.

    Thanks,
    Mike
     
  2. PB

    PB Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Ebay is a wonderful source of parts. How new is your saw, is it under warranty? A rebuild kit from a dealer would cost you an arm and a leg for that little saw, so aftermarket parts would be the way to go for cost savings. You could always buy a new saw too.:)
     
  3. mtj39565

    mtj39565 New Member

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    It's my dad's saw.. he says it's over a year old, but it hasn't many hours of use out of it. Maybe 5 or so hours.

    You say go aftermarket? How does one know what parts/manufacturers work with what engines? Is there a brand that works well with Husqvarna?

    Thanks,
    Mike
     
  4. PB

    PB Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Aftermarket parts should list what models they fit. The word on the street is to stay away from Golf pistons if you can, sometimes there are minor fitment problems. That is Husqvarna's lower model, you might want to upgrade. You can take any old complete saw to a J-red dealer and get a pretty good deal on a trade in towards a new model.

    If you want to try to fix the 142, there is a lot of information on this site with a lot of helpful people.
     
  5. taplinhill

    taplinhill Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I haven't seen much aftermarket stuff for the 142. I don't think many people bother rebuilding them. When they are $199 new it doesn't take much to get more in it than it is worth.

    You might get lucky and only need rings and/or piston, but your description of the cylinder sounds grim.
     
  6. PB

    PB Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Yeah, he's right. I looked and thought you said the piston was scored, that would be maybe $40, but a cylinder is a whole other issue. Not worth the money to fix unless you really want to.
     
  7. mtj39565

    mtj39565 New Member

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    my mistake...

    I actually meant piston not cylinder, oops. If cylinder is ok, maybe it might be worth a new $$piston$$ ? Thank you all for your posts.

    Mike
     
  8. PB

    PB Addicted to ArboristSite

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    How does the cylinder look, do you have any pictures? How bad is the piston?
     
  9. najones

    najones ArboristSite Lurker

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    This is Mike's brother.

    I took the engine apart and I'd like for someone to take a look at the picture of the cylinder. I can take a picture of the piston if that is helpful.

    I found a place where I can get the cylinder and piston kit (both poulan part numbers, not aftermarket) for 82 shipped. If the cylinder is salvagable, I'd prefer to save the 40 bucks, but I also don't want to reuse it if it will destroy the new piston.

    The gouges don't feel very deep, but then again, this cylinder is tiny and any gouges may be considered deep. How does it look guys?

    Thanks,
    Nathan Jones
     
  10. SawTroll

    SawTroll Information Collector

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    Take it back to the dealer, unless someone put streight or otherwise bad gas in it, ran it without an air filter etc......
     
  11. najones

    najones ArboristSite Lurker

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    The dealer would be Lowes. I've read other people writing about the 142 from Lowes and they didn't have any luck with repairs.
     
  12. SawTroll

    SawTroll Information Collector

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    Take it back and complain anyway, unless someone made a grave mistake when using it.

    Edit; ...which I suspect someone did, sorry to say.....
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2007
  13. stevethekiwi

    stevethekiwi Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Hi, can you post some more pics please? we will tell you why it failed. piston and barrel in detail if you can, point out the exhaust side of the piston...

    Thanks!

    Steve :greenchainsaw:

    no good rebuilding it if you dont know why it seized in the first place...
     
  14. najones

    najones ArboristSite Lurker

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    Here are 2 more pictures.

    The piston picture shows the exhaust side of the piston. The gouges are very evident in the picture, although I was having an issue with focus so the picture lacks real detail. The intake side of the piston is in great shape, as well as the intake side of the cylinder. The rings are in pieces because I tried to pull it off and the gouges deformed the groove enough to make them stuck.

    The original cylinder picture I posted shows the exhaust side of the cylinder. As stated above, the intake side of the cylinder is flawless looking, so I didn't take a picture of it.

    The last picture of the cylinder is kind of pointless, it just shows it from the side. The intake is on the left where my thumb is.
     
  15. stevethekiwi

    stevethekiwi Addicted to ArboristSite

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    looks like classic lean seizure. could be any of the following:

    1. not enough oil in your fuel mix
    2. air leak either in carb, intake, or crancase etc
    3. H jet turned in too far
    4. Stale fuel
    5. poor quality fuel / oil
    6. tank vents faulty
    7. turbo charger running a too high boost

    the list goes on...

    The only possible warranty could be tank vents, air leak, or possibly H jet depending on if a PD inspection was done and who by... but by stripping the saw youself the warranty usually goes out the window...

    checking the above would be a good idea if you do an overhaul

    anyone mentioned to never loan out your chainsaw...? :greenchainsaw:
     
  16. PB

    PB Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I would say it was the turbo by the looks of it, kicking in at too low of RPM's would be my guess. LOL You sure like the Turbo line don't you. I am surprised you didn't blame it on the muffler bearings also a likely cause.
     
  17. stevethekiwi

    stevethekiwi Addicted to ArboristSite

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    could also be the flux capacitor. but you need a left handed screw driver to remove this.
     
  18. SawTroll

    SawTroll Information Collector

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    Lots of funny guys here, disregard the 3 last posts.....:censored:
     
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  19. stevethekiwi

    stevethekiwi Addicted to ArboristSite

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    but what is life without humour and turbo chargers... :dizzy:
     
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  20. najones

    najones ArboristSite Lurker

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    I checked my turbo and it isn't overboosting. :dizzy:

    I'm going to order these new parts and see if I can't get it to tune up properly. I'm also going to look at the gas that was used and see if that was the culpret.

    The vent in the gas tank, how would you check that? It is a small metal vent pressed into the tank near the top. When I screwed the gas cap on, I noticed the fuel moving up the gas line and leaking out, as if it were under pressure from screwing the cap on. Is the vent a one way vent? Only letting air into the tank, but not out?

    Thanks guys, I appreicate the help
     

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