Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw

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Sweet as thanks. Didn't see the wire(13) in your kit, mine was missing.
 
you are correct. dang another wait. i will wait until we look a little closer for something else to pop up before i write them attached the parts numbers too.

bingo 2.JPG . i
 
My parts diagram doesn't show the bush. I messaged them about missing parts, see what comes of it. I went ahead and placed next order so back to waiting too.
 
My parts diagram doesn't show the bush. I messaged them about missing parts, see what comes of it. I went ahead and placed next order so back to waiting too.

I opened the magneto/coil bag and look what is attached. i did not get the barrel end in the picture it curled under. did you look in that bag?070 kill wire.jpg
 
I opened the magneto/coil bag and look what is attached. i did not get the barrel end in the picture it curled under. did you look in that bag?View attachment 596989
Bedford ! Before you put your saw together. Could you please take a couple measurements of the ignition plate and the orange box coil pack thing. I would like to try to convert a 070 electronic china ignition to a 041. Fingers crossed. I don't think it will work tho. one can hope.
 
I'm impressed with how quick the service dept works at hultz. Missing parts are going to be sent out to me.
 
32mm thick orange to base slightly higher than the coil side
10mm base thickness
89.5mm diameter
Centered 32.5mm between two bolt pattern
81.5 mm between opposing bolt holes

Good luck

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
32mm thick orange to base slightly higher than the coil side
10mm base thickness
89.5mm diameter
Centered 32.5mm between two bolt pattern
81.5 mm between opposing bolt holes

Good luck

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Thank You !
 
Bedford ! No need to mess with it if you dont have to !


I need to work with the saw some more and get a bigger bar
The power is there the power is amazing actually. This is way better than a poulan or cheap saw at Wal-Mart

Maybe I don't have it tuned right but I just don't know.

I used it for another two hours today the compression seems to be coming up to me. But maybe I was tired.

I let off the throttle after cutting a stump and the chain fell off.

The sprocket didn't have a scratch on it but it chipped 5 drive links so I touched them up with the file and kept going. We removed about 6 smaller scrub oaks and the saw functioned amazingly well.

Bottom line. I really love this saw.


I was just trying to say the clutch might not be as strong as a real 070. I think the clutch is three quarters of a real 070.

But I've never held a real 070 so I am going by youtube videos and other people
The REAL stock 070 clutch is pretty weak as well. I ran my 070 with 60" bar in 55" wood and even though the saw had issues and was down on power, it still smoked the clutch rather quickly. Yes, I stopped right away but did still received a small brown puff of dust.
 
So I am itching to get started and now that the eclipse is over. Took the first step and look what I found.

What does this mean?

131bc03e0490a4eaeb6018d92fca2679.jpg
 
The REAL stock 070 clutch is pretty weak as well. I ran my 070 with 60" bar in 55" wood and even though the saw had issues and was down on power, it still smoked the clutch rather quickly. Yes, I stopped right away but did still received a small brown puff of dust.

Thank you for your insight. !
I've never used a real 070 before so I don't know what to expect.
I bought a 42 inch hard nose bar for it And I want to see how well that does.


On a side note. Ebay has the clone of the 070 clutch that has little pads / shoes on it.
The clutch that's in the huztl clone is just metal on metal. I was going to try to see if the one with shoes did a little better


I feel if it could just not slip for a second. The engine can power it over whatever the chain hit and continue to cut smoothly ! The power is there. But if the revs drop just a little bit the clutch will slip. And you have to restart the cut.
 
So I am itching to get started and now that the eclipse is over. Took the first step and look what I found.

What does this mean?

131bc03e0490a4eaeb6018d92fca2679.jpg
I finally opened my kit. Mine does not have the bearing stickers. My bearings were loose in the bag with the case.
 
I wonder If I should just buy the Oregon Power mate rim drive clutch for the 070. For 30 dollars. Or the gb clutch for 23 dollars. Supposedly the Oregon clutch is the best. Does anybody know anything about the GB branded clutch that seems to be held together by rivets.

Update. I found the oregon rim drive sprocket for 20 dollars shipped. And I also ordered the padded clutch shoe clutch from china. Total cost of the clutch upgrade would be 35 dollars.

I'll report in several weeks if it's any better or not !
 
So I took step one to get my crank installed. These are quite a bit different, meaning less stressful to install.

I have run up on my first question. Since no one has experience what would be your best guess and why?

I am thinking the beveled edge would go to the case and the flat side to the crank. Feels like it's made of leather

ca9e764cd7f4a5363ac8a3ee84a1a374.jpg
ea39b110f8853bbc4568f8a16f56c469.jpg
 
So I took step one to get my crank installed. These are quite a bit different, meaning less stressful to install.

I have run up on my first question. Since no one has experience what would be your best guess and why?

I am thinking the beveled edge would go to the case and the flat side to the crank. Feels like it's made of leather

ca9e764cd7f4a5363ac8a3ee84a1a374.jpg
ea39b110f8853bbc4568f8a16f56c469.jpg
Looks like the same stuff that is in some reed valves in saws of the same era. It's something remotely similar to an early carbon fiber if I remember correctly.
 

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