That's a nice, clean, simple tool, but it only takes about 30 seconds to grab the crank web in a vise and tap the bearing on with a deep well socket that fits over the crank. You're tapping on the inner race, so no risk of damage at all.
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
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Brad, keep in mind, haven't tried this in a saw yet ... well.. I have... sorta. But not for putting case halves together with sealant yet. Its going to happen.... soon 
also, I don't know if I have a deep socket that goes quite that keep.. pretty sure I've looked, and I have quite a few sockets.
also, I don't know if I have a deep socket that goes quite that keep.. pretty sure I've looked, and I have quite a few sockets.
also, assuming you can get both bearings on without damaging them as you describe, you still need to install them in the case halves (which can put lateral forces on the bearings). that involves heating the case halves in some way ... usually...as you are putting everything together with sealant/gasket
with my tools you can put bearings in the case first, let everything get to room temp, THEN pull the crank through the bearings and case halves together... with sealant, at room temp
with my tools you can put bearings in the case first, let everything get to room temp, THEN pull the crank through the bearings and case halves together... with sealant, at room temp
I can see it being real handy for pulling the vase halves together.
boy I hope so!
I still don't have a ship date on my package, though... apparently it has been sent to their forwarder, who is having issues
I still don't have a ship date on my package, though... apparently it has been sent to their forwarder, who is having issues
I agree there are more than one ways to do something, and though there is vast experience behind many of these different ways, exacting proof that none of them are "wrong" ... I am going to assume that part of the point of this site is to help others strive for "better" if not best. I hope these tools at minimum offer "better for cheap" and I also hope that I can prove it. whether I do or not remains to be seen, and I will leave it to others to judge whether I have indeed achieved "better" or not.
Here's the "Husqvarna" shop puller & heat blended to do bearings & pull the cases together.....actually what I do, 90 percent of the time with Husqvarna's. Will eventually build a puller for the Stihls in the same form I think...until then....heat for the bearings & a press/"warm" heat to assemble crank & cases. ( Brad would kick butt in a case assembly race with the simple tools and bigger hammer approach...and heat BUT this is one of those nice and low stress approach for the old farts like me who OVER analyses everything )
BUT this is one of those nice and low stress approach for the old farts like me who OVER analyses everything )
Ive actually seen that vid, and its what was more or less the inspiration for the tools. Thanks for sharing that again.
So my kit arrived and and I have unboxed it and got everything organized. Here are some notes.
- well packaged. Most items were bagged, bubble wrapped, and taped.
- cases have bearings,seals, and pins installed.
- missing case gasket. I have contacted huztl, but also picked up and oem for $5.
- I will assemble the cases Tuesday when I go back to work and have access to my press. However, I have assembled the chain tensioner and it will work with the parts supplied, no room to shim, so it looks like they tightened up case tolerances. It isn't the smoothest operation. Might go oem.
-cylinder looks pretty good. It looks as if someone cleaned up the flashing before it got to me. I'll hit it with some fine paper just to touch up but nothing crazy.
- had to buy a couple nuts for the falling spikes.
Most of the assembly will happen next week. I will more than likely go without the base gasket if the squish is ok. I do have a couple questions.
1. Is there anything that goes between the oiler and the crankcase or the does the oiler butt right up to the case. I know where the small grommet goes.
2. Is there suppose to be a metal chain deflector with the kit?
Thanks for any input.
- well packaged. Most items were bagged, bubble wrapped, and taped.
- cases have bearings,seals, and pins installed.
- missing case gasket. I have contacted huztl, but also picked up and oem for $5.
- I will assemble the cases Tuesday when I go back to work and have access to my press. However, I have assembled the chain tensioner and it will work with the parts supplied, no room to shim, so it looks like they tightened up case tolerances. It isn't the smoothest operation. Might go oem.
-cylinder looks pretty good. It looks as if someone cleaned up the flashing before it got to me. I'll hit it with some fine paper just to touch up but nothing crazy.
- had to buy a couple nuts for the falling spikes.
Most of the assembly will happen next week. I will more than likely go without the base gasket if the squish is ok. I do have a couple questions.
1. Is there anything that goes between the oiler and the crankcase or the does the oiler butt right up to the case. I know where the small grommet goes.
2. Is there suppose to be a metal chain deflector with the kit?
Thanks for any input.
Here's the "Husqvarna" shop puller & heat blended to do bearings & pull the cases together.....actually what I do, 90 percent of the time with Husqvarna's. Will eventually build a puller for the Stihls in the same form I think...until then....heat for the bearings & a press/"warm" heat to assemble crank & cases. ( Brad would kick butt in a case assembly race with the simple tools and bigger hammer approach...and heat
What do those puller kits cost? Can you buy just the PTO side? With the method I use, that's all I would need.
Brad, i'll make you one .... what saw you want to pull together?
or rather, what thread sizes you need? I can make the double ender m12 and m14 x1.25 LH pretty easy
or rather, what thread sizes you need? I can make the double ender m12 and m14 x1.25 LH pretty easy
20 or 30 bucks maybe?
Wood Chopper
ArboristSite Operative
How much for the stihl version? Heard they are way more than 30 bucks lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you very much for the offer. Last night was the first crankcase I had put together in I don't know how long. It'll probably be that much longer before I do another one.
Can't beat a price like that for OEM tools!
You are welcome. now that I have the taps, I can make up stuff pretty easy. the hard part is drilling straight down the center of the threaded rod freehand. one day I'll do up a few on my folk's lathe and make up a few tools i can ship to whoever needs them
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Guys, Just tack weld an .89 cent nut on the rod....easy peasy.
....the pto side threads are left hand...
And I was trying to demonstrate that tools can be made without a welder or lathe or mill etc
And I was trying to demonstrate that tools can be made without a welder or lathe or mill etc
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
And a great job you did with basic tools. Left hand nuts are available online relatively cheap so availability isn't an issue and most folks know a buddy that will tack a nut on the end of a rod for free which makes it much cheaper than buying an odd size left hand tap...just a suggestion for thrifty spenders.
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